Thread: Band saw rehab

In Australia we call them Chain link belts, I will be surprised if that is cause more likely to be bearings, loose pulleys or out of balance top or bottom wheel.

I agree with China, a link belt won't remove your vibration. The belts on your machine appear to be in pretty good condition although there might be a crack in the motor belt in the second photo, but that wouldn't cause major vibrations. Those belts would be easily replaced like for like.
Usually people put link belts on if they can't replace a normal belt without the need to dismantle the machine. Being able to split the belt removes the need to dismantle as the old belt can be simply cut off and the link belt put on and rejoined. Link belts are very expensive compared to a normal vee belt.

I would clean and inspect the pulleys for cracks and if necessary replace and set screws securing the pulleys to the shafts. It my opinion. The proper belt should make machine run smoothly protecting the wheel bearings from excessive vibrations. Also check the wheels for worn out bearings that can be professionally pressed out and replaced for a fee at service centers. Sometimes the machine stands vibrate when not level. Clean inspect all nuts bolts and screws. When necessary break them free make any adjustments, oil the threads and re tighten.

A new tighter belt may make make problems worse, especially if the lower wheel isn't in line
Is it the lower wheel that there is wobble or vibration?


Without knowing much of your machine, i presume there is one wheel which cannot be adjusted
in terms of yaw.
Does this allign with the motor pulley?

Either of those should be the reference point, I toasted my motor bearings before by thinking the unadjustable guidepost
was the reference/datum point.

I suggest you make a straight edge jig, something like what was briefly mentioned by the wood whisperer.
Love to know where Spagnuolo heard that wee gem from, seems like some "Chinese whispers" may have been involved here,
as blocks either end of the beam made it seem more difficult to me (sorry couldn't resist )


You could countersink that block with rare earth magnets
Method is likely best with the widest suited blade, since that's what some top manufacturers suggest (if you can get away with it)
Clamping the beam is a real hindrance, as wheel needs to be free in order to do even the smallest adjustment.

Best way I've found to measure yaw alignment,
SAM_4630.jpgSAM_4633.jpgSAM_4568.jpgSAM_4595.jpg

I'd personally go a step further, pull the machine out from wall to work on it,
and make 4 wee blocks for levelling it up
They don't have to be magnetic, some tape would do just as well.
Couldn't do the job without them, should you not have some other fancy pants laser device.
Any old thin string type will do if you make the blocks, make use of them rubber bands though.
Plumb bobs will drive ya mad if your thinking something could be out.


Plumb bob and blocks.jpg
Just so you can work out wheel protrusion
Wheel protrusion.jpg
as well as any adjustments which may be possible to account for tire thickness
Screenshot from 2021-08-17 14-14-12.jpg

Good luck
Tom