Thread: Bandsaw.

Welcome to the forum

Many years ago cork was used.
Depending on how big your bandsaw wheels are, bands cut from car or truck inner tubes could be used.
These could be glued on with contact cement or that thick double sided tape such as used for sticking carpet down.
H.

Originally Posted by clear out

Many years ago cork was used.
Depending on how big your bandsaw wheels are, bands cut from car or truck inner tubes could be used.
These could be glued on with contact cement or that thick double sided tape such as used for sticking carpet down.
H.

Hello, Thank you for the reply. I have plenty of cork shhet so I will give that a try.

Welcome Hakama, you might win the prize for the most isolated member of these forums.

One issue that could come up for your band saw is that the original tyres might have been be crowned (have a slight hump in the middle) to help keep the blade tracking. If you use a flat tyres, the blade might not stay on the tyres. Shaping a material like leather or cork to a crown will be tricky but if you can glue it down firmly over something underneath the tyre material then this might be enough to create a crown.

One material I have used to create a crown for my 2 x 36" belt sander is two turns of electrical tape. It will need to be significantly narrower than the tyre eg about 1/4 of the width of the tyre for it to work.

EDIT: I just realized Cork can be sanded so you could try to sand a crown onto the cork once it is glued down?

A plane iron can be used to good effect here, a non laminated iron makes a dandy stout scraper
for all jobs, just honed using a perfectly square block and no burr drawn.
Makes a good job taking down the corner of your oil stones if they are a bit dished.

A few notes on this though for the benefit of the machine.

If you care about your paintwork, you WILL get some plywood to fit on the base for when you drop something.
the cutting action is much like a regular scraper or scraper plane, canted back.

The trick to this is having a nice big clamp which will stay put when loosened,
This is the blade adjustment, do NOT advance the fixed blade on the block, as doing so is likely to make a nice deep cut or possibly split the material.
Scribble some blue biro on the tires to watch progress.

This is done by hand/machine unplugged and under tension with a decent blade relative to the machine.
Take note that dressing may well change the position of the wheels, so they need to be check frequently.
I only noticed recently, how much things like the upper wheel tracking needs to be adjusted, if any change in anything
regarding the lower wheel.
This is how I would go about checking some things, bar the levelling part which I have put on the video thumbnail now.
Bandsaw wheel alignment on an Italian machine - YouTube

So I have to dress my wheels again soon.
If you think you can wing it without taking the wheels off to really check the profile,
I will mention that your best bet will be to make or have a straight edge that will sit against the wheel, and have a light behind the wheel.
Very difficult to honestly see the profile otherwise, and can trick the eye inside the cabinet. BTDT
This wasn't good enough for me to notice no light/ though I might not have been able to get it right at the time, as I assumed the upper wheel was fairly stable regarding staying co-planar.

SAM_2870.jpg


Truing bandsaw tires.jpg

This is a surer way of checking them, unobstructive view, nicer square, better light
SAM_4145.jpg

Welcome to the forum.