Thread: Bandsaw Blades and Finish (and Sharpening)

Dengy changed to a 13mm 3tpi bi-metal blade along with other adjustments and achieved this:

Peter (pjt) Illustrated two blades ...

a Woodmaster 1tpi bi-metal (L-R-straight) toothed 1-1/4" wide ...



and a CT (Tungsten Carbide) straight-toothed blade with a wide cutting tooth followed by a 'triple-cut' raker. 1" wide ...




There was also a close-up shot of his crotch.
Probably some kind of eucalypt.


The CT teeth ... the band is 30 thou wide ... the cutting tooth is 42 thou

Pjt's Woodslicer bi-metal blade 3/4" wide 3-4tpi variable pitch.

my mistake - this is the Woodmaster 1tpi bi-metal blade again.

I have a 1" wide 'plain' single-metal blade set L-R-straight 1.3tpi. When I got it I didn't know much, and asked for a 'resaw' blade.

The band is 43 thou, and the teeth are set 30-40 thou in each direction = 0.8-1.0 mm - that is a lot!

I was very surprised when I measured it, and would have expected a rougher result off those figures.

P1010320.jpg P1010321.jpg


A chunk of Cypress pine semi-green:

P1010325.jpg P1010324.jpg


Cypress and some old Jarrah - with a section planed for contrast:

P1010326.jpg P1010328.jpg P1010330.jpg

Originally Posted by pmcgee

I don't know if anyone on this forum sharpens the average size bandsaw blade? or it is off to the saw doctor. We resharpen chainsaws - even use retail circular saw setups (hopefully) for consistency. I have only seen resharpening setups mainly for large mill-size bandsaw blades.

Hi Paul,
I resharpen my 1 tpi blades, too many teeth to sharpen tho on finer teeth blades.


Pete.

Hi All,
Knew a Chap awhile back, that did his 1/2" x 4 TPI. Blades, with an Angle Grinder.
He made a Slip Jig for the A/G, to slip in & back, a Slot for the Blade, with 2 pieces of Dowel approx. 2 Ft. apart, overhead & away he went.
Had the Blade done in no time.
Could be easier these Days as we now have that 2mm. A/G. Wheel.
May even be able to do the fine Teeth Blades, say 3/8" x 6 TPI.

sounds like a good information.

Paul

There are sharpening machines available for bandsaws such as I use on my mill. It uses a 11/4" blade with either a 3/4" or 1" pitch. I looked up the specs on the machine from Dinasaw and it will go down to 5/16", which is pretty close to 3tpi. The catch is that the machines are not cheap.

Cutting edge Sharpening Equipment


I think it would be possible to use a 4" angle grinder mounted in a cut off device perhaps with a older style (thicker) cutting disc. The disc itself needs to be profiled with a granite stick or similar to suit the tooth shape. The difficulty is obtaining consistency over every tooth. The concept is simple enough. Take the barest amount possible off the face of the tooth and maintain the depth of the gullet. I think you would need to be very good to do this completely by eye and hand alone. I should point out this is for a rip tooth. Cross cut bands will probably have the tooth at an angle and present a more complicated task.

The Dinasaw machine itself is excellent but probably out of the reach of most people using their saw for home use. In fact the sharpener probably costs more than the average medium size bandsaw.

The last option is filing, but so many teeth! I think I would take it into the saw doctor.

Regards
Paul

I forgot to note I started another thread on sharpening

Heh heh ... cough ...

https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ba...pening-159918/

From the wood-gears guy ...

Why bandsaw blades squeal

Stoning a bandsaw blade


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I think this explains it pretty clearly ...

http://www.thinkerf.com/Downloads/WashBand.PDF

The woodslicer I have used is a variable pitch blade, not sure of the teeth set atm but it does give a clean cut, but once blunt the finish quality does drop, as does all the blades, the stoning of the blade, the same thing is done on tenon/dovetail saws to remove a tiny bit of set which should result in a smoother finish to the cut face.


Pete

Hmmm ... look familiar? ... The Deltagram ... January 1932 ... how far we've come ...

I cut some veneers using the woodslicer blade on the 14" BS.
I cut 4 pieces of Black Wattle with a used blade, then I put a new one on and cut the BH Sass.

black wattle woodslicer.JPGlong shot b. wattle.JPGcloseup wattle and sass.JPGcloseup sass.JPGlong shot b. wattle sass.JPG

It does give a good finish, a bit of vibration at the start which then settles down.



Pete