Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 1 to 12 of 12
Thread: bandsaw cutting funny
-
28th April 2010, 09:25 PM #1Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
bandsaw cutting funny
G'day all
I've noticed an interesting problem with one of our bandsaws at work and was wondering if anyone else has experienced it and/or knows what to do about it.
When cutting curves, the blade SOMETIMES (this makes it morre irritating) develops a 'wobble' of sorts. Basically it cuts a nice, even, wavy line. Whats more interesting is that no matter how fast or slow the wood is fed, the waves are exactly the same size.
The blade is sharp, the guides are as close as possible, the wheels are true so I can't work out what could be happening - unless bandsaws have a resonant frequency or something
Anyone else had this problem, know what causes it or know how to fix it???
Cheers,
Elan
-
28th April 2010 09:25 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
28th April 2010, 10:41 PM #2
Stop cutting up clowns and all should return to normal!!! But seriously, is the tension correct for the blade. Sounds to me that it may be a little loose.. I'm sure others will wade in shortly.
Cheers
-
28th April 2010, 10:45 PM #3Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
Tension is right as far as i can tell - 100 year old machine so it doesnt have a tension meter or anything fancy like that
-
29th April 2010, 09:15 AM #4
-
29th April 2010, 08:18 PM #5Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
the blade does twist slightly when cutting curves, but when the wobble starts it continues even after the curve is finished
-
29th April 2010, 10:32 PM #6
Tooth set on each side of the blade may have deteriorated unequally, from cutting curves in a favored direction. Resonance could make it worse. Ideally, this can be reduced by alternating direction of curved cuts, and using the same speed of feed in each case.
You should be able to sense tooth set variations by GENTLY gripping the blade with finger and thumb, and SLOWLY moving the blade upwards, WITH THE POWER OFF. If you find such variations, professional sharpening and setting may be able to correct it.
A new blade should also be considered. Eventually, you'll need one anyway.
Cheers,
JoeOf course truth is stranger than fiction.
Fiction has to make sense. - Mark Twain
-
30th April 2010, 12:16 AM #7SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- May 2009
- Location
- Perth
- Posts
- 708
Hmm, I'm wondering whether the problem is a bit more serious. ie bearings/bushings for the drive wheels may be on the fritz. It fits the symptoms.
-
1st May 2010, 06:33 PM #8
-
1st May 2010, 08:38 PM #9Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
Thanks for all the repiles.
Just to clear something up, it's not specific to the blade (they have all done it) but our other bandsaw doesnt have the same problem.
both machines are the same vintage (about 100 years old) and have had the old wooden bearings changed to sealed ball bearings many years ago.
The one difference is that the wobbling saw has new Carba-Tec Industrial ceramic blade guides (which, btw, are absolute crap and are probably the WORST way to spend $100) and the non-wobbling saw has the original guide which covers a much larger section of the blade.
The one thing that still baffles be is the fact that the ripples are evenly spaced at about 6mm apart REGARDLESS OF FEED RATE
-
8th June 2010, 04:33 PM #10SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Feb 2004
- Location
- kuranda north qld
- Posts
- 717
Post photo sounds? Like you have a badly set tooth or teeth or problems with temper or tooth shape ,tension .
-
8th June 2010, 06:50 PM #11
The Bandsaw.
Hi Elanjacobs,
A most likely silly Question, but I take it you are not using the height adjustment, right to the top & it really should be just above the thickness if the wood.
I also thick there is trouble with the Blade.
You haven't told us the size of the Saw or the Blade width & TPI. These could be important as well, but it does sound like the Blade is not quite tight enough.
Regards,
issatree.
-
8th June 2010, 07:49 PM #12Taking a break
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 34
- Posts
- 6,127
I do set the height to about 5mm from the timber.
The blade is 1/2" 4TPI, case hardened, skip tooth.
Not sure of the exact size of the wheels but i think they're around the 30" mark.
As mentioned before, we have 2 identical bandsaws both running the same blades. One of them is fine and the other has the same wobble problem with breand new blades as with used blades.
The worst bit is that sometimes it cuts fine and sometimes it wobbles both with new and old blades
Similar Threads
-
Log cradle for bandsaw cutting please.
By Rattrap in forum SMALL TIMBER MILLINGReplies: 17Last Post: 26th March 2009, 12:27 PM -
Cutting Aluminium with bandsaw?
By Check twice! in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 12Last Post: 15th July 2008, 07:12 PM -
Circle cutting Jig for my Bandsaw ?
By WillyInBris in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 2Last Post: 9th April 2007, 06:20 PM -
Cutting sleepers with a bandsaw?
By baldrick99 in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 4Last Post: 24th January 2006, 09:18 AM -
What bandsaw do I buy for blank cutting?
By dirkmartin in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 1Last Post: 10th October 2003, 12:49 PM