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Thread: My bandsaw is full of gremlins.
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1st May 2013, 12:23 PM #31
Just to throw more mud into the water...
...I can't see that the type of thrust bearing with a groove for the blade being much of an improvement.
Firstly, when a blade is placed on the wheel and correctly tensioned, the vertical part(s) of the blade will always fall in a straight line that's tangential to both top & bottom wheels. A grooved type B thrust bearing must be aligned both sideways so the back of the blade falls 'naturally' into the bearing groove & fore-and-aft to set the clearance at the back of the blade.
Then you can align the side guides, but they must be accurately set lest one presses to tightly to the side of the blade and adds a "twist" to the blade as it passes through.
It makes accurate initial setup more critical, without any real benefit. (In my opinion, anyway... my BS will cut veneers with a type A when set properly. Why complicate things?)
To put it simply: poor guide adjustment with either type is "not good" but it's even more "not good" with a grooved bearing.
- Andy Mc
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1st May 2013, 12:57 PM #32
In essence, I agree. Mine is an 'A' type, and I can also cut nice thin veneer and make accurate cuts for BS boxes etc. It tracks dead straight too, after following Alex Snodgrass' method of running the blade gullets in the centre of the wheel, rather than centring the blade itself.
However, having said that, many people swear by the Carter stabiliser, groove and all.
As you say, though, in theory it seems that accurate setup would be harder, since the natural fall of the blade must align perfectly with the groove in a grooved type B.
N.B. The 'Type A, Type B' was just a quick sketch I did, they're not std. terms.... Steve
-- Monkey see, monkey do --
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1st May 2013, 02:21 PM #33
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1st May 2013, 11:25 PM #34I got sick of sitting around doing nothing - so I took up meditation.
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1st May 2013, 11:30 PM #35
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