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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    24

    Default Bandsaw Guides...

    I've recently purchased a bandsaw, and it was suppled with the euro style GL456 brass bushing upper guide, and a wooden block lower guide.
    The saw will be used for blades from 1/4" and up to 1".

    Carter guides (eg. Euro 600) would set me back a lot of money like $500+ - - and I'm pretty sure it's not value for money.
    But I am thinking about whether it's worth upgrading the lower guides to a matching GL456 guide.

    Appreciate any advice on guides and the law of diminishing returns ?

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    boston
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Try ceramic guides, they much support all around.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Thanks for the tip. After some thought, one guide would not do the job.

    I ordered Laguna ceramic guides and a Carter stabilizer for 1/4" and finer curve cutting.

    If I get another smaller saw eg 14" if will most likely be a Laguna or similar.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,359

    Default

    By Carter guides I assume that you mean the roller bearing style, rather than block bearings?

    IMHO they're normally well worth it, but $500?? I can see your concern about cost-benefit... I doubt they'll improve the "ruggedness and blade durability" that much!

    At this stage Bosox' suggestion seems the better way to go - for now - as replacing both upper & lower with ceramics would be the best splash for your cash. (And yes, upgrading both sets is a damned good idea if you're concerned about accuracy with minimal fussing. )

    However, even so, I'd keep an eye out for an alternate set of good roller bearing guides that won't break your bank balance. I believe they're worth it.

    (I'm assuming that your BS will be an every-day user that is used for everything from ripping down large boards to fine scroll-work; which is where it excels. If it's only an occasional user, then cost:benefit becomes trickier to calculate in day-to-day terms.)
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,359

    Default

    Dunno how I missed your reply to bosox, but I did.

    Good choice! Hope they serve you well.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    191

    Default

    I'll be interested to hear if your bandsaw has the flat euro style wheels where you set the blade teeth to be just off the front edge of the top wheel. I have one of that style and am strongly considering putting a 'bevel' on the wheels so they can run on the center as most of the bandsaws i've used and setup tend to have nowdays. Good to see you found some new guides too, will be very interested to hear how they perform. I've also heard of people making epoxy and graphite blocks to use on the bandsaw, if the ceramic ones for whatever reason don't work out so well.

    Cheers


    • I am slowly building an Ian Oughtred lapstrake (6 planks) Macgregor Canoe it should have 2 sails when finished as well







  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Yes it has a flat wheel tyre and I'm just setting up a 1/4" blade. Doesn't seem to track well unless the blade is in the middle. The rear guide hits the guard if the blade is on the edge so that is also an issue.

    Should be easier with the more conventional 1/2" blades to get it to track well (I hope)

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    191

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andrewwong View Post
    Yes it has a flat wheel tyre and I'm just setting up a 1/4" blade. Doesn't seem to track well unless the blade is in the middle. The rear guide hits the guard if the blade is on the edge so that is also an issue.

    Should be easier with the more conventional 1/2" blades to get it to track well (I hope)

    How do you mean the rear guide hits the guards? any chance of a photo, can't picture how that happens. I struggled to find much info on tuning and setup for flat wheel bandsaws, I've seen some info on how to put a crown on them though

  10. #9
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    24

    Default

    Sorry I meant to say Thrust bearing.. But got it all sorted out.

    Been a big weekend. Got my clearvue running and the saw is working great.

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