Thread: Bandsaw Information

Because it will be too short?

Originally Posted by dhurrang

Hi saw doctor,

can u tell me if there is any difference between a meat bandsaw and wood bandsaw??

dhurrang

Yes their is a slight difference between the blades depending on the manufacturer.
Meat blades are generally thinner around 0.020, 0.022 in stead of
0.025 which is normal guage, With a slightly different tooth shape
& some manufacturers use a different type of steel. However at the
end of the day both will cut meat & wood & nonferris steel.

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

....................And you should always use a triple chip for cutting melamine with or without a scribber.

Sorry, but this is a furphy. I can get perfect chip free cuts on melamine without a triple chip blade. I cut through about 600 lineal metres of melamine board a month, not a huge amount (I've worked places where the saws went through a few Kms per day) but enough to know it's not a fluke. Triple chip blades cost more to buy and a lot more to sharpen.

Mick

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

And you should always use a triple chip for cutting melamine with or without a scribber.

Originally Posted by journeyman Mick

Sorry, but this is a furphy. I can get perfect chip free cuts on melamine without a triple chip blade. I cut through about 600 lineal metres of melamine board a month, not a huge amount (I've worked places where the saws went through a few Kms per day) but enough to know it's not a fluke. Triple chip blades cost more to buy and a lot more to sharpen.

Mick

A furphy and a little con job. im lazy at times and have 2 freud 40tooth combos (LUO2M) that i tend to use for everything leaving my rip and veneer blades for when they come into their own, and with the combo at full heigth so the teeth are cutting down into the melamine i "never" get chip-out and only minimal under the sheet

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Please bear in mine the yanks nor the euro's don't have what we call hardwood !! they don't even no the meaning of real hardwood.

Sorry Doc but this isnt have a go at Doc day But i must say another furphy

Desert Ironwood: 1.15 Lignum Vitae: 1.37 Mountain Mahogany: 1.10 Ebony: 1.12 Hollyleaf Cherry: 0.98 Persimmon: 0.83
Engelmann Oak: 0.94 Shagbark Hickory: 0.83 Cat's Claw Acacia: 0.85
Eastern Ironwood: 0.80 Canyon Live Oak: 0.85
They are just american hardwoods and all as tough as nails, and apart from the top four that are used in specialist situations, the others are used by furniture and cabinet makers on a moderate scale just like out tough hardwoods. Jarrah is 0.84. I know we have far more dense timber than Jarrah, but their used on a moderate scale just like the timbers listed above. so to say europeans and americans dont understand hardwood when it comes to tooling isnt quiet correct


.

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Yes their is a slight difference between the blades depending on the manufacturer.
Meat blades are generally thinner around 0.020, 0.022 in stead of
0.025 which is normal guage, With a slightly different tooth shape
& some manufacturers use a different type of steel. However at the
end of the day both will cut meat & wood & nonferris steel.

thanks for the reply Brad.

I have a Nolex Junior meat bandsaw sitting in a corner gathering dust

Can I simply buy an appropiate blade (for cutting aussie hardwood milled on our property), fit to the saw and cut away ???

What info do I need to supply for correct band size ??

Thanks in advance

David

Hi Kev
The blades which came with the machine are proberly the originals,
they would have been made by portamill in Queensland who also made
the Dynasaw machine some years ago. The blades are morethen likely
20g or 0.9 in thickness which would give a kerf size of around 2.0 to 2.1mm there ok for softwood but not so crash hot on hardwood generally because they dont have the beam strenght in the body also they proberly
have a 25 to 35mm pitch which again is great for softwood not so good on hardwood unless there skip tooth ( tipped every seacond tooth ) . We use either 1.0 or 1.07 thickness depending on who's sharpening the blade & what type of equipment its been sharpened on to what steel thickness we
use. I now this sound confusing but its proberly a subject handled better over the phone. Most Dynasaws now just run 2" Bi-metals or HSS tipped
blades which will cut just about anything, however they need alot of strain. For more info your better to give me a call

Brad !!!

OK, you have the special guide system good, A 14" jet machine has a standard 7'-9" blade so a standard riser block is 6" so your new blade lenght will be 8'-9" SO. If your supplier cant supply you we can.

Not a furphy as you say just general rule & some years of experience,
However your machine must be in perfect alinement with no bearing
problems, Thats good. consider yourself in the few, As for cost theres not a great deal between them.

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Not a furphy as you say just general rule & some years of experience,
However your machine must be in perfect alinement with no bearing
problems, Thats good. consider yourself in the few, As for cost theres not a great deal between them.

Not sure your addressing me or Mick, but iv been in the bussines for 20 years and if you have sharp blades then their never is a problem. same for veneered board as long as the blade is at max height no tear-out on the top and minimal on the bottom (on a non scribe saw) and i agree on the cost bit though

Your wright, the message was intended for Mick but i'm still trying to nav my way around this site, But i was getting to you next.

The spec's For a Nolex junior i have at work not with me at home at the moment. But they can only take a 1/2" blade from memory,will confirm.
Depending on what you wish to cut there not the most ideal machine for the job.

Originally Posted by redwood

But i must say another furphy

Desert Ironwood: 1.15 Lignum Vitae: 1.37 Mountain Mahogany: 1.10 Ebony: 1.12 Hollyleaf Cherry: 0.98 Persimmon: 0.83
Engelmann Oak: 0.94 Shagbark Hickory: 0.83 Cat's Claw Acacia: 0.85
Eastern Ironwood: 0.80 Canyon Live Oak: 0.85
They are just american hardwoods and all as tough as nails, and apart from the top four that are used in specialist situations, the others are used by furniture and cabinet makers on a moderate scale just like out tough hardwoods. Jarrah is 0.84. I know we have far more dense timber than Jarrah, but their used on a moderate scale just like the timbers listed above. so to say europeans and americans dont understand hardwood when it comes to tooling isnt quiet correct


.

Redwood using density alone to illustrate a point is one of the biggest mistakes to make as well, it only provides a very rough laymans guide to the really important properties, ie River redgum has a high specific gravity figure, but is not indicative of in use or processing needs.
The example of Jarrah despite its apparent hardness to some is still another poor example, really it's a bit of a pussywood in the local scene, (sorta good for decorative uses I'd reckon ) as we need to consider other more pertinent factors in as far as machinability goes, heat buildup, growth rates, local provenance, resins, extractives PH levels, grain orentation, oh and a little compound called silica are very much in play when it comes to tooling. The best machinery indeed does come from Europe (weinig springs to mind every time) however many will not touch their domestically recommended tool material types with a long pole of Brushbox. IMHO that is

I reckon the young Bloke has given some bleedin great advice so far, don't be in such a hurry to cut him down.

The reply characterising American and European hardwoods was in response to my query about a carbide band saw blade. I can assure you that there are plenty of tough and ornery timbers in North America. Additionally, the 1" carbide blades are used by people who have access to exotic woods, hence the blade choice. Silica was mentioned-on this score alone I would have thought carbide would be longer wearing.

I am confused that carbide is recommended for softwoods, which I don't use.

FWIW, the European saw blades that I have are great, but I wouldn't opt for chrome steel cutters for spindle moulders that seem to supply as standard. On the other hand, I get Cobalt steel planer blades that are very durable.

Originally Posted by E. maculata

I reckon the young Bloke has given some bleedin great advice so far, don't be in such a hurry to cut him down.

im not trying to cut him down i said its not have ago at doc day, but why do people think we are the only country to have tought hardwood:confused: iv used Hollyleaf, Cherry, Persimmon and Hickory and even a little vitae and boy are they all tough and tough on blades. Why do you think hickory is used on wheel spokes:confused: No difference to timbers we use here. And i dont think age has anything to do with it, he seems very experienced and able to cope and a decent bloke to reply to everyones questions. but if their is some aspects i dont agree on ill quiz him and he has every right to reply and ill take that on board