Thread: Bandsaw Information

Originally Posted by redwood

A furphy and a little con job. im lazy at times and have 2 freud 40tooth combos (LUO2M) that i tend to use for everything leaving my rip and veneer blades for when they come into their own, and with the combo at full heigth so the teeth are cutting down into the melamine i "never" get chip-out and only minimal under the sheet



Sorry Doc but this isnt have a go at Doc day But i must say another furphy

Desert Ironwood: 1.15 Lignum Vitae: 1.37 Mountain Mahogany: 1.10 Ebony: 1.12 Hollyleaf Cherry: 0.98 Persimmon: 0.83
Engelmann Oak: 0.94 Shagbark Hickory: 0.83 Cat's Claw Acacia: 0.85
Eastern Ironwood: 0.80 Canyon Live Oak: 0.85
They are just american hardwoods and all as tough as nails, and apart from the top four that are used in specialist situations, the others are used by furniture and cabinet makers on a moderate scale just like out tough hardwoods. Jarrah is 0.84. I know we have far more dense timber than Jarrah, but their used on a moderate scale just like the timbers listed above. so to say europeans and americans dont understand hardwood when it comes to tooling isnt quiet correct


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1) Furphy, Con Job!!!, OK if your happy with MINIMAL BREAK OUT on the underside of the sheet then so be it, however with our customers its zero break out, Nothing less.

2) Yes the rest of the world does have hardwood, Sorry bad choice of words on my behalf. And we could debate this point until the termites come home however different hardwoods from around the world have different properties & density, but density is not the problem properties are, generally specking hardwoods in the US & Euro cut cleanly although they are tuff but dont suffer the explosion rate of saw dust as we do in Australian timbers. How many time have you cut a peice of hardwood board & opened it up & found saw dust packed on the inside of each board, this is called packing saw dust & will happen on a 14" machine to a 8' headrig in a green mill which just kills saw blades for various reasons. A 1" T.C.T blade is a nonferris/steel cutting blade designed for that purpose it will cut there timbers & some of ours fine but they have to many teeth for our "hardwoods" because of the explosion rate of our native timbers. Go dig a hole in the ground & then try to fill it back in again with the same drit that came out of it, what happens you cant get it all back in again you have left overs, same principal apiles to most of our native harwoods..
Look i dont calm to known it all, i can only pass on what i have learned form experience as i was born & bread in a sawmill thats how HBsaws
become !!!!

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

.....but I must say that I'm disappointed with the durability of the blades.

FWIW, I am using a 1" Lenox bi-metal blade in 1.5 tpi, supplied by Henry Bros. I have cut 2 meters of red gum, 20 meters of myrtle, 20 meters of oregon, 2 meters of MDF (don't ask). and a few feet of rock maple. I lost a lot of blood yesterday after just brushing against it (saw off). It seems as sharp as new.

My saw (euro guides) squeals like the proverbial when re-sawing. I can't wait to upgrade the guides.

Greg

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

1) ......A 1" T.C.T blade is a nonferris/steel cutting blade designed for that purpose it will cut there timbers & some of ours fine but they have to many teeth for our "hardwoods" because of the explosion rate of our native timbers. .....

Aha! Now I get it. Thanks for the reply.

Greg

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

The spec's For a Nolex junior i have at work not with me at home at the moment. But they can only take a 1/2" blade from memory,will confirm.
Depending on what you wish to cut there not the most ideal machine for the job.

Spec's

1/2" wide Max
Lenght 9'-8"

Would recommend 1/2" x 3 tpi or 1/2" x 2tpi
sorry not much choice because of the machine

Doc

Originally Posted by Harry72

What type of guides? Currently has bearings, like the carter type I think?

Straight edges start at $40 is that a 300mm? Whats a 1000mm worth $130ish?

BTW the last Bsaw blades I brought from you are brilliant!(1-1/2" 1tpi stellite tipped/6mm 5~6tpi)

Double sided paralel straight edges

Sorry my mistate, should bring more paper work home with me instead of going on my memory.

300mm $25.00 + gst
1000mm $80.00 + gst

Doc

Originally Posted by paul.cleary

Hi Brad,
I am currently using a fish-slicing blade that is 3/4 inches wide but only 0.018 inches thick instead of 0.025 inches.
I like it because it cuts fast and the extra width makes for a very straight cut when ripping.
What tension should I set it to? It seems to tension up just fine on the 1/2 inch setting of my Carbatec 14" cast iron frame bandsaw and I have not tried the 3/4 inch setting.
Is this because tension is related to the cross-section of the blade and not the width? Or is this just another myth?
Thanks
Paul

Hi Paul

You can give it more tension but if its working fine, "if it ant broke dont try & fix it" However you can give it more strain it wont harm the blade..

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Brad,

A couple of Qs for you as you've so kindly volunteered - thank you!

1: I have an Electra Beckum 14" bandsaw, and have been doing a fair amount of resawing, principally of red gum, but also some blackwood, and I have some 20m of jarrah that I also need to resaw.

All of the boards are +/-150mm wide, and I'm resawing from 32 or so mm (after jointing adjacent sides) to around 14 ~ 15mm. The question is this: I have been using a reputable (set of) blades from a Melbourne supplier, 3tpi hooked tooth, 1/2" wide blades - and they barely seem to last more than 3 or 4 boards of maybe 2m length before dulling substantially, even to the point where the timber is getting quite warm.

I'm using a feed rate of less than 60cm/minute - else the saw starts to bog down.

Should I be using a different blade configuration? If so, what would you suggest?

2: The saw makes a loud and high-pitched screech when sawing in this manner. Is this common?

Thanks!

Hi Auld

Again to many teeth

Recommend 3/4" x 1.25p 25.00 + post + gst
High pitch sound.. To many teeth in the cut or blade speed to fast
producing high frequency vibration in the blade
bigger teeth should fix it..

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Alf,

I'd agree with that, which is why I've been going to a well respected supplier who imports (from the UK I believe) raw stock, and cuts and welds B/S blades to order.

They seem to be very knowledgeable, and are helpful and provide good service (I'm not going to mention names here), but I must say that I'm disappointed with the durability of the blades.

Of course, it may well be something that I'm doing (wrong), but if so, I'm stuffed if I know what...

Broadly, the end results are ok. With the red gum, I do find that I need to use a point reference and guide by eye over a pre-marked line, as the density of the stock does tend to vary, so a flat fence doesn't seem the best way to go.

With the upcoming task of resawing the Jarrah, I really don't want to wreck several hundred dollars' worth of timber, so need to put this issue to bed.

Comments from any and all are thus welcome - and no, I'm not going to handsaw 20+m of 150mm wide Jarrah

Alf

What size machine do you have ???

Doc

Originally Posted by gregoryq

FWIW, I am using a 1" Lenox bi-metal blade in 1.5 tpi, supplied by Henry Bros. I have cut 2 meters of red gum, 20 meters of myrtle, 20 meters of oregon, 2 meters of MDF (don't ask). and a few feet of rock maple. I lost a lot of blood yesterday after just brushing against it (saw off). It seems as sharp as new.

My saw (euro guides) squeals like the proverbial when re-sawing. I can't wait to upgrade the guides.

Greg

Hi Greg!

Thanks for that. I may have to explore the bi-metal route.

Regarding the guides, I did enquire of EB the availability and cost of their "precision guides" and was informed that, yes they are available, and they cost $280 FoB, Germany"... That's 30% of the cost of the saw - just for the guides. I guess I'll either buy better ear protectors, wait, or buy a bigger/better B/S...

Cheers!

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Alf

What size machine do you have ???

Doc

Hi Alf!

Thanks for the replies so far.

The machine is an Electra Beckum 316G - i.e. a little 14" one, and it can only take a max. blade width of 1/2" - do you have something like a 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 TPI blade (2240mm len) that would be appropriate.

I am looking to upgrade to a B/S with a 300mm resaw possibly Jet or one of the Carba-Tec ones - but with an after-market fence such as the Kreg Precision fence that I have on the EB (just put back the OEM one).

Thanks mate!

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Greg!

Regarding the guides, I did enquire of EB the availability and cost of their "precision guides" and was informed that, yes they are available, and they cost $280 FoB, Germany"... That's 30% of the cost of the saw - just for the guides. I guess I'll either buy better ear protectors, wait, or buy a bigger/better B/S...

Cheers!

Yeah, the price of replacement guides is silly, isn't it? Iturra Design in Florida (no website) carries a caramic wheel insert to replace the guts of the euro type guides-approx $100.00. I have decided to make a bearing guide similar to Carter Products' unit as the Euro wheel guides seem to defy logic.

(I purchased something from Louis Iturra a few months ago-there was a delay in shipping, they emailed to advise delay and didn't charge my card until day of shipping. I have his catalogue here if you want a copy of the applicable page)

Greg

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Alf!

Thanks for the replies so far.

The machine is an Electra Beckum 316G - i.e. a little 14" one, and it can only take a max. blade width of 1/2" - do you have something like a 1 1/2 or 1 1/4 TPI blade (2240mm len) that would be appropriate.

I am looking to upgrade to a B/S with a 300mm resaw possibly Jet or one of the Carba-Tec ones - but with an after-market fence such as the Kreg Precision fence that I have on the EB (just put back the OEM one).

Thanks mate!

Hi Alf

Yes we do have 1-1/2" & 1-1/4" pitch blades, but saddly not in 1/2" wide.
We do have a 1/2" x 2tpi this blade was designed for deep bowl blake turning & can turn down to a 2-1/2" circle & also rip quite well considering its only 1/2" wide. Or you can have 1/2" x 3tpi W/C in bi-metal (HSS tipped).

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Hi Alf

Yes we do have 1-1/2" & 1-1/4" pitch blades, but saddly not in 1/2" wide.
We do have a 1/2" x 2tpi this blade was designed for deep bowl blake turning & can turn down to a 2-1/2" circle & also rip quite well considering its only 1/2" wide. Or you can have 1/2" x 3tpi W/C in bi-metal (HSS tipped).

Prices please, Alf?

I'll order 2 of each to start with (i.e 2 x 1/2" x 2tpi amd 2 1/2" 3 tpi bi-metal, all ss40 mm in length.)

Please advise cost & include postage.

Thanks

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Prices please, Alf?

I'll order 2 of each to start with (i.e 2 x 1/2" x 2tpi amd 2 1/2" 3 tpi bi-metal, all ss40 mm in length.)

Please advise cost & include postage.

Thanks

Hi Alf

1/2 x 2tpi - $25.00 +gst
1/2" x 3tpi w/c bi-metal $45.00 + gst
post $ 8.00 + gst