Thread: Bandsaw Information

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Alf!

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Hi Alf

Gents, who is Alf?? :confused: :confused: :confused:

Kev M

Alf was a cute and cudly alien from the planet Melmac. Didnt think he was into wood though (apart from eating it)

Hi Doc,

Can you tell me what are the dimensions of your straight edges ( I'm looking for a 3m one) and what cost to get one to Hobart?

Also, what tolerances are they made to?

regards,

Andrew

Originally Posted by Auld Bassoon

Hi Doc!

Done deal - now how can I place the order and pay for the items?

OK,OK, Thanks gents for pointing out my mistake, & i do apologize to Steve or Alf, (sorry just joking) & i'm happy to cop it on the chin & move on... (i'm still wearing my L plates when it comes to this site)

Steve, you can contact us on 029 627 5486 or email me your contact
details to [email protected] with the best time to ring you day or nite.

Brad !!!

Originally Posted by bloggs1968

Hi Doc,

Can you tell me what are the dimensions of your straight edges ( I'm looking for a 3m one) and what cost to get one to Hobart?

Also, what tolerances are they made to?

regards,

Andrew

Hi Andrew

Standard size over that length would be 3mt x 100mm x 13g
However this depends on what you wish to use it for. (more info please)
as we can make whatever you wish.

Tolerance- over that length +/- 0.2mm

cost - $180.00 + gst
freigth to Hobart ?. I would have to look into it.
Brad !!!

Standard size over that length would be 3mt x 100mm x 13g
However this depends on what you wish to use it for. (more info please)
as we can make whatever you wish.

Tolerance- over that length +/- 0.2mm

cost - $180.00 + gst
freigth to Hobart ?. I would have to look into it.
Brad !!![/QUOTE]


Brad,

pardon my ignorance but how thick is 13 gauge? Use will be for general boatbuilding use not precision engineering.

Andrew

13g = 2.3mm

hi brother Henry..

got one of your 1.3tpi a while back and it did'nt work!!!

no i'm just kidding it is an amazing blade, resawed through 8in hardwood like cheese, was very impressed and i'v had it for months now, nicked a few nails (sorry) but it still goes better than a new cheapy blade...well done , top marks on your product....(what a wrap up ! )


what sort of blade would you match with a 12in tablesaw for fine crosscutting and also some ripping, are thin kirf or heavy thicker blades better for quality cuts ...

cheers.

Originally Posted by la Huerta

hi brother Henry..

got one of your 1.3tpi a while back and it did'nt work!!!

no i'm just kidding it is an amazing blade, resawed through 8in hardwood like cheese, was very impressed and i'v had it for months now, nicked a few nails (sorry) but it still goes better than a new cheapy blade...well done , top marks on your product....(what a wrap up ! )


what sort of blade would you match with a 12in tablesaw for fine crosscutting and also some ripping, are thin kirf or heavy thicker blades better for quality cuts ...

cheers.

Thanks for that, Yep its not bad.

You blokes won't it all in one !!! --------- I'm thinking

300mm (12") x 48T will give you the best of both worlds.

Doc

P.S. No difference between thick or thin in a table saw blade..

thanks doc, will give you a call shortly and get one...



ps. you know you've opened pandora's box by starting this thread ...

Originally Posted by bloggs1968

Standard size over that length would be 3mt x 100mm x 13g
However this depends on what you wish to use it for. (more info please)
as we can make whatever you wish.

Tolerance- over that length +/- 0.2mm

cost - $180.00 + gst
freigth to Hobart ?. I would have to look into it.
Brad !!!

Brad,

pardon my ignorance but how thick is 13 gauge? Use will be for general boatbuilding use not precision engineering.

Andrew[/quote]


Hi Andrew

13g = 2.41mm but as i have stated we can make NEARLY any thing.

Australia post not happy to give me a price, So i'll get a quote from Ipex who handle our bulk freight.

Brad

Dear Brad,

Thanks for being here! A few months back, I ordered a bunch of blades from Henry Bros.. I'm delighted by both the quality of the blades and the price, not to mention the service I got on the telephone. I do have a couple of specific queries for you regarding the 1/8 inchers:

I bought a couple of these 1/8" blades for my 18" Jet bandsaw (137" blade).
The first question regards the thickness of the blade itself, or perhaps the set of the teeth (?). I ordered 14tpi blades, just for your information.

When I make tight scrolling cuts, like for puzzle boxes, the kerf I end up with is way too big. The joints are sloppy as a result. Are there some extremely thin blades that you could suggest, or is my saw just too big? Perhaps I'm looking to scroll with the wrong tool.

The other question regards the weld on the blade I have on there now. I round the back shoulders of the new blade with a diamond hone, which saves the thrust bearing and supposedly keeps things running as cool as can be. But the "ticking" of the weld suggests that there's a high spot. Do you recommend that I try to remove that spot, or will I be compromising the structural integrity of the blade?

Thanks!

Michael

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Hi all
My names Brad from Henry Bros Saws, I'm here to help in any way i can
regarding bandsaws, circularsaws, knives & routers. Just ask & i'll do my
best to help you....

Henry Bros Saws

Originally Posted by cellist

Dear Brad,

Thanks for being here! A few months back, I ordered a bunch of blades from Henry Bros.. I'm delighted by both the quality of the blades and the price, not to mention the service I got on the telephone. I do have a couple of specific queries for you regarding the 1/8 inchers:

I bought a couple of these 1/8" blades for my 18" Jet bandsaw (137" blade).
The first question regards the thickness of the blade itself, or perhaps the set of the teeth (?). I ordered 14tpi blades, just for your information.

When I make tight scrolling cuts, like for puzzle boxes, the kerf I end up with is way too big. The joints are sloppy as a result. Are there some extremely thin blades that you could suggest, or is my saw just too big? Perhaps I'm looking to scroll with the wrong tool.

The other question regards the weld on the blade I have on there now. I round the back shoulders of the new blade with a diamond hone, which saves the thrust bearing and supposedly keeps things running as cool as can be. But the "ticking" of the weld suggests that there's a high spot. Do you recommend that I try to remove that spot, or will I be compromising the structural integrity of the blade?

Thanks!

Michael

Hi Michael
The thickness would be 0.025" , the set would be not much more then, lets say 0.015" to 0.020" to big for puzzles, we can supply 0.014" bandsaw blade but i wouldn't recommend it on a 18" jet. I think a scroll saw would be your best option.

The ticking you refer to can be morethen likely the weld, As 1/8" bandsaw is very difficult to weld due to the nature of the material & its curvature
Dressing off the back edge is a good thing for all bandsaws for lot of reasons however if the problem becomes to bad, Please contact us.

Brad

Many thanks, Brad. Yes, I feared that I was trying to slicing cheese with a chainsaw. As for the ticking, last night I put on one of the you-beaut 1/4 inchers Henry Bros sent me (6tpi), and there's no ticking at all. Your guess about the weld on the 1/8 incher is quite right, but it was little more than an annoyance. One further query: Does H/B sell bi-metal 1/4 inchers? I bought a 1/2 inch bi-metal blade, which looks fabulous. Still haven't put it on though.

Thanks, Brad!

Michael