Thread: Bandsaw Information

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Brad,

pardon my ignorance but how thick is 13 gauge? Use will be for general boatbuilding use not precision engineering.

Andrew

Hi Andrew

13g = 2.41mm but as i have stated we can make NEARLY any thing.

Australia post not happy to give me a price, So i'll get a quote from Ipex who handle our bulk freight.

Brad[/quote]


Hi Andrew
Sorry for the delay, Freight on 3mt straight edge to Hobart
$45.00 by ipec.

Brad

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

Hi Andrew

13g = 2.41mm but as i have stated we can make NEARLY any thing.

Australia post not happy to give me a price, So i'll get a quote from Ipex who handle our bulk freight.

Brad

Hi Andrew
Sorry for the delay, Freight on 3mt straight edge to Hobart
$45.00 by ipec.

Brad[/QUOTE]



Brad,

What about 75mm x 4mm x 3m? Is that possible and if so, how much?

regards,

Andrew

HI Andrew
sorry for the delay i haven't had a chance to visit the site for a week or so.

75mm x 4mm x 3mt straight edge can be made, however it will have to be made from mild steel not hardened steel like our standard edgers
this could cause a problem during gringing as the surface tension in the steel may cause it to spring slightly and not hold 100% straight. My guess
would be a +/- 2.00mm over 3mts.

Price still around $180.00 + gst
Freight i would say could be double due to is weight.

Hope this helps
Brad !
Price:

HI Andrew
sorry for the delay i haven't had a chance to visit the site for a week or so.

75mm x 4mm x 3mt straight edge can be made, however it will have to be made from mild steel not hardened steel like our standard edgers
this could cause a problem during gringing as the surface tension in the steel may cause it to spring slightly and not hold 100% straight. My guess
would be a +/- 2.00mm over 3mts.

Price still around $180.00 + gst
Freight i would say could be double due to is weight.

Hope this helps
Brad !
Price:

Thanks Brad,

I was fortunate enough late last week to be given a straight edge by on old boilermaker that is exactly what I was after but thanks for the info anyway.

Can I ask a bandsaw blade question.

I am doing a fair bit of resawing but want to increase my yield with a thinner kerf. At my last place, we were using 1 1/4" 1.5 ( I think) tpi blades from Henry Bros ( the swiss ones) on a new 24" leda saw but still had to allow nearly 5mm for the cut and subsequent dressing to be safe.

I have one of the woodslicer blades ( see www.highlandhardware.com ) for my Jet 14" and find the kerf is about 1.5mm and after planing, can allow 3mm as a "resaw allowance". I am currently hunting for a bigger saw ( about 21-24") and would like to know if there are thin kerf resaw blades available. A mate down here has a friend with an old Makita bandsaw with a stellite tipped resaw blade with an extremely thin kerf. What about tungsten tipped?

I am happy to pay good money for a dedicated sharpenable resaw blade but need to know what is available.

BTW, I am resawing huon, king billy, celery top, and tas oak boards, normally 6-8" x 1 1/8 or thicker.

regards,

Andrew

Doh! Broke a spankin' new blade today .
Bandsaw was setup when assembled, wheels co-planar and all guides set. I had been using it to cut 6mm perspex and 12mm laminated ply, lovely, cutting like butter.
It broke when I was ripping some 30mm thick Myrtle against the rip fence.

Here are my conclusions as to why it snapped (in hindsight of course )

Blade is a 6mm 6TPI Skip-tooth

1. I was aware that the rip fence needed to be adjusted to the blade drift, but had just not got around to doing it, and it was a fair bit different. So I guess the blade would have been under some twisting tension while working harder ripping the thicker Myrtle.

2. See pic below... Are butt welded joins cheaper and not as strong as say a tapered or scarf brazed joint? (see attachment)

Do Henry Bros butt join their Blades or scarf? or are all blades just butt joined?

Nice post, Martrix.


I aim to please

Hi Martrix
Scarf joining of bandsaws has not been done for 20 years or more due to its high labor intense process. There are two types of butt welders

1) a butt welder which users basically simple brut force.

2) Flash butt welders which are PLC controlled & are more reliable
then straight butt welding systems. Henry Bros uses Flash butt welders

However all have there good points & bad points.

Doc

Matrix,
I am sure your supplier would reweld the blade if you made a request, especially after only one days use.

Originally Posted by jow104

Matrix,
I am sure your supplier would reweld the blade if you made a request, especially after only one days use.

Hi Jow, I don't think this blade could be used again, it is pretty twisted up!

Originally Posted by The Saw Doctor

No difference between thick or thin in a table saw blade..

I don't quite agree with you there, mate. I use a nice thick kerf ripping blade on my TS, having found that thin-kerf units simply end up getting pulled around by the grain. Cross-cutting it doesn't make any difference as far as can tell.

Somebody save us ! it just isn't that complicated