Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 18 of 18
Thread: Bandsaw ‘ripples’
-
31st October 2021, 12:17 AM #16Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2017
- Location
- Éire
- Age
- 39
- Posts
- 300
Hello again
The photo of the Tas oak suggests that there could be some improvements made to your setup,
you shouldn't get that speclhing on the underside of the cut,
Whether that's due to you're fence not being parallel with the blade, or other things like machine setup
which is worth checking, that is...
if the blade is actually tensioned adequately, and the tracking where it should be, then something is at fault.
Might get a better impression if we Knew if the speclhing was on both sides of the cut, and if the scallops are too.
Scallops on both sides would indicate that you're pushing too hard, and the blade is getting deflected.
One solution is slowing down, which you seem to be gravitating towards,
Could see if spelching was present on the cut from the other side of the blade.
If so, then change for a different manufacturer to see if the saw cuts better.
If it still happens, then that might suggest tension is not adequate.
The spelching/blowout is what you should be looking into removing out of the equation first.
It could suggest something else like your alignment/yaw being out.
For the sake of your motor bearings, be careful to make sure your pulley lines up with any adjustment you make,
should you need to go near bottom wheel.
How does it run with your widest suitable blade, can you run it without any guides making contact,
is there wobbling in either orientation, like flutter or mimicking what a bad blade weld would do?
I'd guess the former for that spelching, but only if I knew the blade was actually tensioned correctly, and there was that result on both sides of the cut.
That the tires were true with an even dust track on the camber at the very least.
Might be worth seeing for any viberation without a blade installed, so you could see if you're lower wheel is not wobbling from being misaligned with motor, possibly more noticeable when stopping the machine.
Might not be an issue with a smaller machine, but I'd want to know, should the belt was too tight for any possible misalignments, so another thing to check should you want the best results.
Tom
-
31st October 2021 12:17 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
31st October 2021, 12:24 AM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2014
- Location
- Bne
- Posts
- 383
Alex Snodgrass is well known in bandsaw circles.
Band Saw Clinic with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube
30-Minute Bandsaw Rehab with Alex Snodgrass - YouTube
Mark Duginski i also found helpful tooLast edited by tomartomau; 31st October 2021 at 12:28 AM. Reason: add info
-
3rd November 2021, 07:54 PM #18Member
- Join Date
- Oct 2021
- Location
- Willetton, Western Australia
- Age
- 66
- Posts
- 70
A bit of an update - have been playing around a bit on this with the 6TPI blade.
13mm is probably the widest I can practically use on this bandsaw- the handbook says 19mm is the max but as the tyres are not much wider than this i haven't been game yet to try the 19mm; centring the gullets on the crown leaves the rear of the blade hanging over the edge of the wheel.
Anyway, reviewing the set up with the current blade I found the tension was a bit tight, so backed it off a tad. Now trying the saw with no load, I immediately heard a difference; it was clear the tension was way, way off. Tried a short rip of a scrap of pine; feeding it at a rate that did not introduce excessive load on the blade, the difference was remarkable.
The pencil line is a highlighted marker line referenced from the top edge in the picture .. so I can assess any drift...looks like there is none . there wasn't any before but I wanted to make sure I did not reintroduce any after adjusting the tension. You can also see a marked improvement on the cut line.
A couple of light tickles with my 'new' favourite plane finished off the edge nicely....
I can easily live with those results, although I might invest in a new 3TPI blade for longer rips
Thanks for all the feedback and suggestions - I did read them all.
Similar Threads
-
Ripples in PolyU Finish subcoats
By Tegmark in forum FINISHINGReplies: 8Last Post: 11th August 2016, 06:28 PM -
Ripples
By Dalboy in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 5Last Post: 24th July 2014, 09:02 PM -
Fixing ripples in veneer
By marc_s in forum WOODWORK - GENERALReplies: 8Last Post: 21st July 2012, 06:51 PM -
Ripples inside lidded box
By lubbing5cherubs in forum WOODTURNING - GENERALReplies: 7Last Post: 27th December 2006, 10:31 PM