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Thread: Bandsaw speeds
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27th January 2005, 12:48 PM #1
Bandsaw speeds
I'm currently researching for a Bandsaw purchase and have decided to spend the extra $'s and get an 18" Bandsaw. I've been reading "The Bandsaw Book" by Lonnie Bird which is great for pointing out what to look for in a bandsaw but mentions nothing about variable speeds on a Bandsaw.
I've noticed that 2 speed 14" Bandsaws run at approx 370 and 750 rpm where as the 18" saws with variable speed run faster at approx 457 and 975 rpm. Why would you change speed on a bandsaw and what are you losing if anything by not having a lower speed around 350 rpm ? Are there any disadvantages of buying single speed 18" Bandsaw with say 900 rpm?
HH.Always look on the bright side...
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27th January 2005 12:48 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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27th January 2005, 01:16 PM #2
I do believe that the slower speeds are for metal cutting.
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27th January 2005, 01:46 PM #3
A faster machine can operate more efficiently with a coarser blade. This means that as the tooth pitch increases, its ability to generate heat is reduced, therefore it is a better choice for resawing (since green wood tends to generate more heat).
Sourced from Mark Duginske's Band Saw Handbook (a.k.a. the BS bible) ISBN 0-8069-6398-0
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30th October 2006, 11:32 PM #4New Member
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HH. go for the 18''JET Bandsaw Ihave been using one for the last 7 years and it is used allmost every day even to resawing 10 thick 6' long logs. and it has not missed a beet all the addjustment are easy to do and accurate. having said that now i suppose (MURPHY LAW) will come in to it, Remember you only get what you pay for. Happy hunting.
Edward.
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10th November 2012, 08:30 AM #5Novice
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Bandsaw speed spped and heat generated by the blade
Hi Groggy,
From my experience with my single speed 18" Jet bandsaw which I use to mill down dried Ironbark, the quote you've offered re heat generation is way off the beam.
Firstly, I the Jet is good value for money but I regret not spending the extra $300-$400 to get a 20" model - just to get a wider throat size.
Secondly, I see no reason to want6 a two speed unit - unless you want to cut metal with the lower speed but the hassle of changing blades take the joy out of it, its not the blade change, its the realignment of all the guide bearings, its a pain in the ass. Buy a 5" angle grinder and use the very thin cutting discs, best investment you'll ever make ! My oxy/LPG set has become almost redundant due to these thin cutting discs.
Thirdly, Heat generation. I harvest well dead Ironbark, I mill it down to lumps that 2 men can load on my ute, then break it down on my old DeWalt radial arm saw and then, transfer to the bandsaw to cut down into chair making components, nominally 25mm x 35mm x 450mm. On the last bush harvesting trip we found a well dead Ironbark tree of about 900mm in diameter. I cut it into 1m lengths and the quartered it (cut the circle into 4)
I later found that although well dead, the inner part of this tree (all the sections I'd cut) were still relatively green after you got thru the outside to about 150mm in depth.
I fit my bandsaw with Bi-metal blades, 3 or 4 TPI, these are specially made for me by Prosharp at Taree.
These blades cut thru the dead Ironbark with relative ease, but slowly, as you would appreciate.
When I got into the greener wood, I could smell it rather than see it, the saw sailed thru it with much greater speed, the difference was amazing.
So, to my mind, cutting green wood is much, much easier than cutting dry wood, it follows then that the harder the going, the more heat you generate.
Cheers,
Wazza
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13th November 2012, 08:54 AM #6