Thread: wheel alignment

Hi Dave,

I'm sure the people here will have some way of fixing your problem. I'm a newbie & don't really know that model of Bandsaw but have you cheacked to make sure both the top & bottom wheels are coplaner with each other ? This is pretty easy to do, just take the covers off & use a straight edge across them both.

If they are coplaner but not vertical try checking them with a spirit level maybe. If they aren't level or coplaner this might be the problem & you might need to use spacers on the wheels shaft to bring them into alignment with each other. Which wheel to use washers/spacers would depend on which is easier to bring in alignment with the other.

It's all pretty easy, grab a book on tuning a bandsaw & it should have the process in there.

Hope this is of some help or use to you.

Cheers

Woodchuck

Back again,

Just also was thinking about the tyres on the wheels maybe. Does the blade track in the center of the wheels ? Check the roundness of your tyres to see if maybe they might be out-of round or shape. If they are you might be able to sand off a little of them to bring em into round.

Though if you do this make sure you take the blade off the saw when you do it. If not might have to buy new ones. If it's none of these problems. I have no other ideas I'm sorry, maybe others can shed some light.

Cheers

Woodchuck

Hi Dave
I have a CT BAS 350. I had the same symptom originally. What happens with that particular saw is when u set the 'camber' on the top wheel to vertical, ( coplanar ) and then put tension on the blade, the top wheel actually go out of the alingned plane. Hence the blade running on a different spot on the upper wheel than the lower wheel. It gives the exact symptom ( call it error if you like ) that you describe.
It is not a problem tho, because it is just a diferent sequence in setting up. Get the top wheel close to vertical, then tension the blade to almost the right tension. Then set the top wheel vertical....( ie line it up in the same plane as the bottom one ) which will then apply a bit more tension to your blade. It is really quite easy but lots op people do not realise that on this paricular bandsaw adjusting the tension quite a lot, affects the camber on the top wheel
Please note that it is specific to BAS 350 saws. I don't know if it applies to the BAS 250 and other tubular frame bandsaws. Do yourself a favour and bolt the cabinet of the saw down on the floor. It changes the charactaristics of the saw immensely...............it is a fantastic saw when bolted down. The depth of cut and accuracy makes it a good choice. Also tensioning the way I described above gives you immense tension on the blade.
Traditional cast bandsaw users, please note that this adjusting sequence does not apply to cast frame bandsaws.
Regards
Joe

Thanks Woodchuck for your suggestions but all was ok there, I think Joe has hit the nail on the head though. I hadn’t considered that the frame might twist but it makes sense, I’ll take a look tonight.

Cheers


Dave

Dave
It is by know means the frame twisting, but in the way the aligning and tensioning devices work together. Do urself a favour, remove the blade, set the top wheel vertical with a sirit level. Hold the level against the wheel and turn the tensioning wheel....observe the level and also what is happening to the camber settings and you'll see why!
Again, the mechanism on the BAS 350's are different to the normal 14", it is not a train smach because it can be used to your advantage,
Have a happy day