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Thread: Bandsaw throat inserts
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20th September 2013, 09:26 PM #1
Bandsaw throat inserts
Mine is buggered. Got the saw secondhand and the insert was a bit chewed up.
I want to make a new one - anyone got any tips? MDF? Aluminium? Hdpe?
And suggestions on how to cut a perfect curve? Id usually use a pattern bit on a router, but I don't think the insert is really strong enough.
Grateful for any advice.
TravSome days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen
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20th September 2013, 11:43 PM #2Retired
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Trav, we could do one up on the lathe.
I have some bright red HDPE here, about 10mm thick. Turn it up on the lathe, copy the old one.
We could hold it in place by screwing it to a preturned stub.
There is also a scroll saw that has never been used sitting here, we could make the throat etc like that.
Maybe I could grab the old one when I call over Monday?
Ev
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21st September 2013, 12:22 AM #3
I've got some zero clearance aluminium inserts that were thrown in with mine and a scroll saw etc so let me know if you want to copy them with evan
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21st September 2013, 12:41 AM #4GOLD MEMBER
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Another way around it is to cover the whole table with a laminex sheet. That way you get a zero clearance throat. No good if you are cutting sheet metal though because the burr will destroy the laminex. As for cutting a perfect curve you can follow a pencil line pretty closely with a fine blade like 1/8 x 14tpi. The trick is to go slowly. Then there are circle cutting jigs and template following jigs but I've never used them.
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21st September 2013, 12:41 AM #5Retired
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Where's your sense of brothership! Spares! Spares!
You'll lend ONE of of your many spares to make one for Trav...
Hehe. Maybe you are lacking sleep from the new bub
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21st September 2013, 12:47 AM #6
Haha yeah possibly. He can just have one but I thought he may need to copy it as it might not just 'slot' into his bandsaw insert slot (technical term right there!)
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21st September 2013, 12:57 AM #7Retired
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This reminds me of a project I was contemplating. Saw it in a very old book on bandsaws from the 80s. Its a slide on sled. It is to be wider than the table, but have a dam on the bottom for back, left and right so it slides exactly in place each time. Then used a wind on bolt underneath to keep it fixed in place.
I was going to use it for circle making. Make a mod so I can slide a rod back and forth for different diameters.
It was for making bowl blanks, but it would make for a very nice "big table" with ZCI.
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21st September 2013, 08:21 AM #8
Thanks everyone for the ideas and offers.
Len - that's a great idea, but how do you get the fence to fit? I've got a halfway decent fence, with the rail tapped into the cast iron top. If I covered the top with melamine, I wouldn't be able to use that fence. I Could use t track to add a new fence, but I'd need to adjust it for drift every time I change its position. But perhaps I missed something, so let me know what you think.
Evan, Delbs - thanks for the offers to help. If your spare aluminium insert fits, that would be perfect Nathan. I'll measure mine today and let you know so you can compare.
Evan - if the aluminium one doesn't fit, I'd be keen to take you up on your offer. It would be shard thing to turn though as it is only a few mm thin? Would the scroll saw be better? Let's discuss on Monday.
Thanks again.
TravSome days we are the flies; some days we are the windscreen
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21st September 2013, 06:34 PM #9GOLD MEMBER
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The laminex cover idea doesn't really work with a fitted fence. I used to do a temporary fence with just one screw nearly level with the blade (use a slotted hole to micro-adjust) holding the fence the right distance from the blade. Then you can pivot the fence on that screw to get your tracking right. When everything is working then use a couple of clamps to hold down the fence front and back to the table and you have a rock solid custom fence. Another good thing is to try doing micro adjustments by backing off the clamps a little and tapping the fence in the desired direction with a mallet.
I didn't usually use a fence much as the laminex was for doing fine cuts through relatively thick material working in very close to a 3mm bandsaw. The zero clearance (which would wear out to 2-3mm before replacement) was so that small pieces didn't fall through the table.
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21st September 2013, 11:43 PM #10GOLD MEMBER
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Jet supply the original aluminium ones, or at least did before the distributor changed in Oz. I couldn't be bothered mucking around trying to make them and they also have two?? location slots in them, they would be the easy part of the job.
CHRIS
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