Thread: Bandsaw wheel -- is there supposed to be this much slop?

Hello again
I had a look at the manual which is similar to many manuals...i.e hard to read,
I seen what could be it called a bushing.
Regardless of that, what I'm saying is spot the difference.

Note the bearing sunken into the wheel in the first picture.
Sorry I don't have a photo of the shaft installed, if I did you would see it proud or flush with the inner race.
What's easily noticeable is the gap between circlip and outer race of the bearing.
SAM_5171.jpg
Compared to this picture where the inner race is proud of the shaft, so that the retaining washer (not pictured)
actually squeezes the wheel onto the shaft and butting it against the smaller circlip pictured on the shaft,
and that washer wont be just for stopping the wheel from coming off, its forcing it to stay put.
A rotating washer is a give away that the spacer could be worn or wasn't wide enough to begin with.

The other thing which the spacer is doing is keeping the bearings apart, so that there is no slop between outer race
and circlip, so not only are the bearings held tightly, but the wheel is not freely able to move about like before in which
it had say 1mm of play to butt against the front circlip, and likely the same deal with the opposite side of the wheel.

Just an illustration to demonstrate that my bearings aren't extremely tight, as you can see were sank into the wheel,
and are now somewhat floating, I mean they wont fall out and have to be pressed or tapped out,
but the shaft isn't able to wriggle about in your hand.
I didn't notice this whilst on the machine, and would find it hard to say whether a saw had this problem
and without the tell tale signs of the wheel washer loose(ish) and shaft proud or flush, say someone covered that up with tape,
I'd be listening with my ears perked to tell you.

You might have a metal spacer or bushing doing the same, but maybe it could with a suitable precision washer of some sort.
(many washers are a bit higgledy piggledy being stamped out from sheet)

Maybe others can comment should it be an entirely differing setup, but would at least presume the bearing inner race is proud of the shaft.
I was thinking my bottom wheel was going to be the same deal, but the setup was good already, just like below.
Will be keeping an eye on it though.

SAM_5285.jpg
Hope that helps

Tom

From the link you supplied for the manual it looks like the correct bearings are installed. The parts list says 4 bearings so the same bearings must also be used in the bottom wheel.

Wheel bearing.JPG

What you can do before refitting the bearing is put a series of centre punch marks around the diameter of the surface where the bearing fits. Try to get the punch marks fairly uniform in size and put about 10 - 12 of them around the diameter and 3 - 4 rows of them. What this does is remove the clearance between the bore and the bearing so that when you press the bearing back in with the Loctite it helps to centralise the bearing in the bore. Without these the bearing could go to one side of the bore and when the Loctite sets the wheel will wobble.

Also worth noting that the shaft is evidently moving in the video, side to side play, not just up and down which should be the only play evident, so not just the wheel moving about around the bearings.
Taking the shaft out along with the wheel will let you know if you've fixed this or not.
Seemingly this wheel is the same deal as with the wood haven 2 post, i.e circlip deeper in bore than mine for outer race to
contact at the back.
Without knowing if there's play of that circlip in the slot, hard to advise any further about a possible spacer issue.
That would be where I would start.

Tom