Bandsaws, just an opinion

**Don McLeod** · 11th March 2011, 10:51 AM

Over the years I've owned three bandsaws, two which I still have and use. I have a no name 14" made in Tiawan ( looks like a Delta) and a BusyBee CT103N 18". I use the 18" for just about everything as it's fairly easy to change blades (doors are on hinges, blade tension is on a lever etc

and it has 2 HP. I've used other bandsaws and while I'd dearly love to have a Walker Turner 20" + or similar, I don't have the space for it. What I have found out is, if you fine tune them, keep the tires and blades clean, use a sharp blade and adjust your guides correctly (regardless whether they are ball bearing or friction guides) they will perform to your expectation. For resawing ( a lot of fun and it's great for book matching) a 14" with balanced coplaner wheels. 12" cutting height and 2 HP or more would be ideal for most hobby shops. There is a lot of hipe over which brand name bandsaw is the best and it is just my opinion that the wood you are cutting could care less (it doesn't get any bragging rights). I use a silicon steel 1/2", 3 tooth pi (I make my own from coil stock) for all of my resawing and most of my general cutting) which works fine for 95% of my work which includes sawing green wood for bowl blanks. I also use the flutter method for adjusting the tension of the bandsaw blade ( just google it) and so far it has worked great.

**seriola** · 11th March 2011, 01:07 PM

A good blade makes the world of difference for sure. I have a 17'' generic bought some years ago at the Adelaide working with wood show, I now use Bi-metal blades. Mainly used for cutting up burls after using the chainsaw to collect them and for resawing salvage timber for renos etc. One of the best value purchases I ever made.

**AlexS** · 12th March 2011, 09:37 AM

While it is nice to have a top quality bandsaw, and I now wouldn't swap my Hammer, I have to endorse what Don says about the Taiwanese no-name. I had one for years, and when properly tuned, with an upgraded motor (1hp) and good blade, I could resaw 6" veneer 1mm thick with no problems.

**cookie48** · 12th March 2011, 10:46 PM

Can any one put me on to a good publication on setting up a bandsaw please.

**Big Shed** · 12th March 2011, 10:49 PM

Originally Posted by cookie48

Can any one put me on to a good publication on setting up a bandsaw please.

The Bandsaw Book : Lonnie Bird : 9781561582891

**cookie48** · 13th March 2011, 12:16 AM

Thankyou Big Shed.

**SimonP** · 25th March 2011, 06:28 PM

Hi Don, you mention that you make up your own bandsaw blades from coil stock.
How do you join the ends to complete the band?
Do you scarfe the metal to reduce the thickness of the overlap?
I'm thinking of using the same technique to repair my old broken blades - sure they'll be a bit smaller, but there's plenty of adjustment on my machine to cope with that.

**Don McLeod** · 27th March 2011, 11:31 PM

I use an electric bandsaw blade welder and it works fairly well. It is not as forgiving as the brazing technique as any flaw in the weld or the ends not being properly aligned will ultimatly lead to a break at the weld.I use it because it is a faster method with less fuss. Prior to that I used silver solder, I have a boughten jig to keep the blade aligned and I scarf the edges to give more surface area for the join. I can;t remember having a blade seperate at the joint, The problem with the joint comes with usng too much flux or solder as it takes a bit of time to remove the excess silver solder. You should be able to make a grinding jig so that both ends of the blade have matching scarfs.

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