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  1. #1
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    Default So, where should the blade REALLY run on the top wheel?

    Something's been bugging me for a couple of days, regarding blade tracking.
    It's been touched on in another thread, but I'd like to explore it more fully.

    Most of us have seen the Snodgrass 'Bandsaw Clinic' video, where he says the blade should run with the bottom of the gullets at the crown of the wheel, to provide support for the teeth.

    Everything else that I've seen says to centre the blade on the wheel.

    My (very minimal) experience showed that drift disappeared when I set the blade to track in the centre.

    My first thoughht is that the tyre would wear quickly, but what about the main premise?

    What's right and what's wrong?
    This man is a very respected bandsaw expert, but even he says that no one else will prescribe this method. Why not, if it's the best?
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

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  3. #2
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    Default

    I saw that vid when I got mine and it works for me.
    It makes sense to me as well.
    It where the sawdust gets and is where the brush to clean the tyre is also.
    Also keeps the max tension right behind the teeth (although it shouldn't stretch much).
    got to be better for the cut.

    But hey, If you showed me a vid of put the blade on backwards and use from other side I'd possibly believe that as well.

  4. #3
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by _fly_ View Post
    But hey, If you showed me a vid of put the blade on backwards and use from other side I'd possibly believe that as well.
    I know what you mean. That's why I posted this.
    I can see the logic in both methods, so I figured it was better to ask those that know more than I do.
    ... Steve

    -- Monkey see, monkey do --

  5. #4
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    Default

    Centre is a good place to start, then fine tune on some scrap. Well that's how I do it. Only works on a domed wheel. If a bandsaw has a flat wheel then drift is usually accounted for by adjusting the fence angle.

    Every bandsaw will be a bit different, but if it is too far forward the blade tracking will dive toward the fence, too far back and it will track away from the fence. Then of course even if it is well adjusted, the grain direction of some timber can cause the blade to wander. the better the BS and the guides the less effect this will have.

  6. #5
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    Default Blade Wander or Blade Drift

    Steve thanks for starting this thread. I am having a driffting, wandering blade problem myself on the Bassato 4 I now believe this is the blade not the Bandsaw itself..

    The video you mention is a top one and his opinion is something I learnt when doing my trade course, have been told since and also read about. This said I have also seen and been through the centre of the blade to high point of the wheel one blade I had on would not run well unless it was loctaed there.


    Blade drift this article is similar to whats was shown in the other thread The various write ups I have seen is not what I expected and I believe the term used "Blade Drift" and the solutions shown are incorrect. These matters are about fence alignment not the blades angle of cut.

    This one covers "Blade Wander"

    The topic has been covered on the forum in the past.https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/ba...ndering-41437/

    Now here is a top written and video on what and how although it does not once again explain why a blade bows, cuts curves. The physics of bandsaw resawing

  7. #6
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    Default

    I have always centred the blade on the top of the wheel, essentially because when I got my bandsaw I read a book by Mark Duginske that said if the teeth touch the tyre it will wear out quickly (the tyre, not the blade). I am open to hearing that is wrong though
    The other day I described to my daughter how to find something in the garage by saying "It's right near my big saw". A few minutes later she came back to ask: "Do you mean the black one, the green one, or the blue one?".

  8. #7
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    Default

    I was taught (by a man with 60-ish years experience) to keep the blade centred.

    When you consider that the distance from the gullet to the centre of a 1/2" blade is only a few mm and that the wheels should only have a gentle crown the difference in position, to my mind, would be about three fifths of stuff all.

  9. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    I was taught (by a man with 60-ish years experience) to keep the blade centred.

    When you consider that the distance from the gullet to the centre of a 1/2" blade is only a few mm and that the wheels should only have a gentle crown the difference in position, to my mind, would be about three fifths of stuff all.

    This is where the statement becomes confusing.

    Is the blade to be centred to the wheel as in The centre of wheel and centre of the blade are to be in harmony. This would mean a wider blade would over hang the teeth allowing the teeth to be unsupported and vary angle possibly.

    Or

    The centre of the wheel should be supporting just behind the teeth. This will allow the back of the blade to be unsupported or angled.


    If memory serves me correctly many a BS I used ruing my apprentice days wheels were not as pronounced in the centre as todays rubber is

  10. #9
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    Default

    There are limitations to where you can put the blade. Yesterday I configured a 1" blade as described in the video. At the top of the wheel the back of the blade runs within 5mm of the tension track. I would not be able to put a 1-1/4" blade in the same position but anything less would suffice.

    Interestingly, Alex says the manufacturer knows more about their BS than anyone else then appears to contradict himself by advising this method of blade configuration over the manufacturers' (Jet in my case).

    Despite this, the method does work well and I have not noticed any sudden chewing up of the tire by placing the teeth in the centre.

  11. #10
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    Default

    Groggy whats you manufactres limit on width of blade?

  12. #11
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    Default

    When it comes to band saws it seems there is more than one way to skin a cat.
    But on the other hand,if I was skinning a cat I would not use a band saw.
    )
    The advice when breeding tropical fish is that if you do every thing by the book, make sure that your fish have read the same book. So I suggest we teach our band saws to read and watch DVDs so that we are on the same page.
    I don't think that's much help but it does put it in some context.

    I better shut up before even I realise I am confused.
    Regards
    Hugh

    Enough is enough, more than enough is too much.

  13. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by A Duke View Post
    When it comes to band saws it seems there is more than one way to skin a cat.
    But on the other hand,if I was skinning a cat I would not use a band saw.
    )
    The advice when breeding tropical fish is that if you do every thing by the book, make sure that your fish have read the same book. So I suggest we teach our band saws to read and watch DVDs so that we are on the same page.
    I don't think that's much help but it does put it in some context.

    I better shut up before even I realise I am confused.
    Regards

    rrflmao I have just thown my BS the book/manuel and installed DV player for it to watch video also.

  14. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheelinround View Post
    Groggy whats you manufactres limit on width of blade?
    The BS I have is spec'd at a blade from 1/8" up to 1-1/2".

    As you could imagine, having about 1" of blade hanging off the wheel would not seem right with a blade that size, nor would it be possible as it would strike the upper wheel and slider brackets. Such a large blade would have to be moved so the centre of the wheel and blade were together.

  15. #14
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    Default

    To quote from the Jet manual verbatim:

    "2. Open the upper wheel door. Rotate the wheel forward, and observe the position of the blade on the wheel. The blade should rest in approximately the centre of the wheel."

    Emphasis is mine.

  16. #15
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Groggy View Post
    The BS I have is spec'd at a blade from 1/8" up to 1-1/2".

    As you could imagine, having about 1" of blade hanging off the wheel would not seem right with a blade that size, nor would it be possible as it would strike the upper wheel and slider brackets. Such a large blade would have to be moved so the centre of the wheel and blade were together.

    agreed.


    "Open the upper wheel door. Rotate the wheel forward, and observe the position of the blade on the wheel. The blade should rest in approximately the centre of the wheel."

    Emphasis is mine.
    Yes a stupid statement "The blade should rest in approximately the centre of the wheel."
    It does not say the centre of the blade should sit centre of the wheel.

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