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Thread: Blade tension

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    74
    Posts
    679

    Default Blade tension

    Hi All

    I purchased a generic bandsaw from Woodstock before they changed to Carbatec.

    It is one of the cheaper (cheapest) models. I have not used it very much so far, however the cuts I have made have been just for cutting out to (rough) shape.

    I have attempted to cut to more accurate tollerances and have NOT been impressed.

    I have read about (in my copy of the bandsaw book) about tuning up etc, which I will do soon. However reading other posts about fences/new blades etc I am tempted to obtain a better quality blade.

    Other discussions about blades and blade tension describe how the tension can affect accuracy or the progress of timber along the fence.

    So...
    1. Is there a recommendation of what would be a good brand and or tpi setting for general purpose use?

    2. How can I maintain (repeatability) or return to a reasonably accurate tension setting? I release the blade tension after use, as the BS tends to sit idle for weeks at a time. Other posts indicated that a change in tension affected the tracking "wander" against the fence.

    3. My BS has no tension indicator of any kind. Some of the others had a small "window" over the tension screw to indicate an approximate setting. Is this type of indicator of any practical use?

    Regards

    Peter

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    I used to have a similar 14" bandsaw, it was ok.
    I got my blades made by a saw sharpening service.
    Found the most versatile blade was a 3/8" skiptooth 3 to 4 tpi.
    As long as the blade is very sharp all bandsaws work well.
    It doesnt take much cutting to lose the razor edge and thats when the blade starts to wander.
    I am thinking about using a rotary chainsaw grinder and a suitable jig to sharpen band on my current machine.
    Put a mark on your tension adjuster and back it off 3 turns when not in use, you just tighten it up 3 turns when you need to use it.
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,821

    Default

    Peter

    There is no doubt that the freebie blade that comes with the bandsaw is pretty poor. In my limited experience in this regard (having recently changed blades for the first time), the replacement blade ("UK-made blade" from Carba-tec) totally outperformes it. Not only does the new blade require less blade tension (probably because it stretches less - ?), but it is sharper and has a better set. Makes the bandsaw feel like it has more horse power. Just no contest! The quickest upgrade is a new, decent blade.

    If you do not have a blade tension indicator, you can still get a reasonable idea of settings from the sound of the blade once it is set up. Just twang the blade as if it were a guitar string. The higher the note, the higher the tension.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Carine WA
    Age
    74
    Posts
    679

    Default

    Hi

    Thank you for the feedback...

    Regards

    Peter

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,549

    Default

    Echidna,

    You can sharpen your chainsaw with a Dremel or similar and a chainsaw sharpening bit. These come in several sizes - get the smallest one.

    I just hold the dremel at right angles to the saw, and grind in the gullet to the tip. It usually just takes a touch.

    1/2" or 3/8" 3tpi is a good size blade.
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