Full boar bandsaw- 750W 305mm

**Skitlz** · 24th June 2020, 07:42 PM

Hi all,

Just looking for some guidance with my bandsaw I purchased. After running through the manual and setting it up, I've been attempting to use it to get 2mm thin vaneer panels of some French oak, but today a couple of things happened.

After a successful cut (ended up being 3mm not 2mm but was straight), I began a second and noticed every now an then a spark would come from the back of the bandsaw blade and the top rear bearing. I eased off pressure and would see it spin slightly, I tried easing off more but then felt like I wasn't cutting as the piece was not moving (could be that it was but just couldn't feel/see it). I increased pressure an noticed the rear bearing spinning quickly but no sparks.
Got to halfway an the blade snapped (first time that has happened lol an I'll admit, bit of a shock)

So my questions are the following;
- Manual has said the back the blade should be inline with the middle of the bearing case, but I've read from others that it should only slightly over lap
- are sparks common?
- when applying pressure for a cut should the bearing spin? Or is it only there to provide resistance from a time to time basis?
- is it possible that the blade I was using had too many tpi?

Shared album - Clinton Ludgrove - Google Photos
Photo of the bearing, you can see the lines on it but feeling it there is no groove I can feel

Any tips or advice is appreciated.
Especially in relation to cutting vaneer panels off of hard wood using a bandsaw

Thanks in advance
Clinton

**orraloon** · 26th June 2020, 12:24 PM

More info would help narrow down the problem so how deep the cut and what tpi blade. In general the back bearing should spin when you start cutting. Should spin all through the cut. Most people follow this guys setup method.
bandsaw setup snodgrass - Google Search.
On a small saw like that cutting veneer or full depth cuts are the most critical and all things need to be right for success. Small saws are also more prone to blade snapping as the blade has to flex more over the smaller wheels. Blade needs to be really sharp with good tension. A low tooth count (Say 3tpi) and a fence at least as high as the wood being cut.
Regards
John

**Skitlz** · 28th June 2020, 09:30 AM

Hi John,

Thanks for that, I stumbled across Alex Snodgrass's video in another forum an that helped heaps.
It was a 4tpi 2320mm 12.7m blade, but contacted a local plablce that does blades an got a 3tpi 2320mm 5/8 inch to try.
Also found a Woodworkers Guild of America video that said the fence should be set up on the opposite side to the vaneer panel your cutting off which I'll try.

I'm cutting through ~85mm at a length of 400mm

If the bearing is to spin when cutting then I guess it's my pressure that's the issue an I need to take it easy.

Thanks,
Clinton

**orraloon** · 28th June 2020, 01:13 PM

Yes you have to let the blade cut as trying brute force only causes deflection. The Snodgrass setup and a sharp well tensioned blade should get you there.
I was thinking about the sparking and there may have been a burr on the back of the blade or perhaps the weld was slightly proud at the back.
Regards
John

**Treecycle** · 29th June 2020, 10:33 PM

Personally I think you are better off using the 12.7mm blade as it's quite a small bandsaw and putting a 16mm blade on will be putting a lot of pressure on the tensioning system to get it tight enough. If you made one good cut and then the next one wandered it could be that the quality of the blade is a bit low and you took the sharp edge off the teeth. As soon as you loose that really sharp edge a blade can start to wander. Was it the original blade that came with the saw?
If it has lost the edge you can resharpen it by using a small grinding wheel such as that used on a Dremel and just lightly touch the back of each tooth (not the cutting face) as shown in this video. Even though a blade can feel sharp when touched it may not necessarily be cutting sharpness.

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