Thread: Bought a used N4400

Just buy the original fence, by the time you muck around modifying/building/adjusting etc, you’ll have completed 3 projects with the proper fence.

You will find some tips for the N4400 here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Powered...ery/index.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

IF you are willing to invest the time fitting an aftermarket fence I would.

Several of us here have had the cast iron part of the fence break for no apparent reason. I was lucky enough to get one replaced for free, and the new casting looks to be beefed up a bit, but its still a flawed design in my opinion.

Congrats on your purchase
I would strongly consider either making this style fence if you happen to have some flat bar stock hanging about.
Keile, Kreise, Kopieren mit der Bandsage! - YouTube

Or at least buy/make something that can be taken off easily, or else you might find yourself doing this malarkey.
Can't say I like the round bar near as much, than when I was making the fence.
The flat stock doesn't seem so agricultural now!
Bandsaw fence antics - Copy.JPG

I notice you seem to have a smaller bottom wheel, as I've been seeing this frequently recently.
I question why, as I've seen it on Centauro compacts, one rough one on ebay uk
a few Griggio's the exact same as mine, but with smaller bottom wheel ,which leads me to guess something maybe up,
which is why I'm saying this.

Seems a small bit odd, so I might as well post a video on my setup after having a journey with a troublesome Italian machine.
Just saying the alignment of the motor takes absolute preference over all, so hopefully the motor pulley will line up with the top wheel.
If the lower wheel is not in line with the pulley, you can wreck motor bearings in a jiffy,
so beware of this, especially if you fit a new belt, I would stay away from that just yet, and keep it loose.
(I used to think the guidepost was the reference!)

This video demonstrates the use of a beam for checking the alignment of the wheels i.e east/west jacking locations,
as I haven't seen a good demonstration of it on video.
Grizzly has a wee demo of this, but I fail to see how they can be sure of that using their exact method.
It must be an old method, as I've heard of it since youtube woodworking began, but not seen a good demo of it.

Hope this helps and you don't damage your motor bearings like I did.

Good luck with the machine

Tom
Wheel alignment & troubleshooting Italian bandsaw. - YouTube

Hi,
check that the round plates on the side guides and thrust guides all rotate freely and are not stuck in position.
Quick solution is to squirt CRC or WD40 into the gap tween the shaft and the housing as these are bushes; longer term solution is to pull them apart and lubricate them. Best solutions is to replace them but it's expensive.

Thanks for the advice everyone - I've got some reading to do! This is my first bandsaw at home, so it'll be a little slow going reading all the true-up/tuning guides and checking it's in order.

Derek - I'd already found your site and bookmarked it for further reading- especially the dust control and wixey.

Tom - the belt still seems reasonably tight, don't think i'll be replacing that yet, but will see how the alignment lines up this weekend.

Regarding fence - still undecided. Tom - was there a specific one in there you recommend? I'm assuming you mean the solid aluminium extrusion off the flat bar rather than the single point? Don't have any metal skills, so if the flat to fence connector is available somewhere, let me know.
Still weighing up between OEM, Kreg 7200 fence or the shopfox (grizzly) 19" fence plus some flat bar to pad the table depth out and still allow for blade changes.

Re. the fence, check out this post. Hammer N4400 Fence broke

Originally Posted by rhimes

Regarding fence - still undecided. Tom - was there a specific one in there you recommend? I'm assuming you mean the solid aluminium extrusion off the flat bar rather than the single point? Don't have any metal skills, so if the flat to fence connector is available somewhere, let me know.
Still weighing up between OEM, Kreg 7200 fence or the shopfox (grizzly) 19" fence plus some flat bar to pad the table depth out and still allow for blade changes.

Sorry I cannot advise on what would be off the shelf.
I was just saying incase you had some suitable flat bar, it would likely be easier to make something which would suit.
I think the Felder video makes sense, and should you have had some flat stock kicking about,
might lend itself to outfeed tables or whatever.

I would have no interest in something which couldn't be removed in a jiffy, as in..without taking the blade off,
should any of those have that issue, I would look elsewhere.

The flat fence rail is very hard to beat IMO
Another consideration is whether all of those choices can be mounted on a non square face, should it be the case or not.
This might explain things better, a bit of filing of the nuts and tubing to fit might be required if the case.
I don't know how well a hollow aluminium extrusion might fair if getting cranked down on,
or even if that's an issue or not, as I've not had a good look at those.
Apron.jpg

All the best
Tom

I’ve got the 4400 and find it’s great for my uses. I don’t use the fence hardly at all, straight cuts are done on table saw. I haven’t broken mine yet but can see how it’d be easy to do. I have the Hammer ceramic guides on mine which have served well. I don’t use it much but when I need it it’s great. Good luck