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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
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    Ballarat
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    8

    Default carbide bandsaw blade sharpening service

    I own a Laguna 14" bandsaw and have a blunt carbide resaw king blade . After many fruitless searches in Vic and NSW ,for a saw service who had the equipment to sharpen a carbide tipped bandsaw blade
    I located Bendigo Saw Sharpening in 16 Belle Vue Rd., Golden Square . They have the right equipment AND their price is very reasonable . I have seen many posts from other frustrated woodies stuck with a similar blade .
    Hope this info helps a few out .

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
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    Can I ask what it costs roughly?

    Don't Henry Bros sharpen? I know they supply the blades.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2014
    Location
    Ballarat
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    8

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    Hi Bernmc ,
    I Was quoted under $50 ,my blade is in transit to them at mo. I spoke to Mark who was quite happy to provide this service .
    Henry Bros quoted $190.00 to resharpen and were not really interested in smaller blades ,they work mainly with saw mill sizes ,hence our 115 inch blades are too fiddly and require rejigging of their sharpener .
    If you live in Vic. I also found Mcdiven saws in Williamstown have 50 odd yrs of experience with what we want , but dont sharpen . So I buy there and sharpen in Bendigo .The things you do !!

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
    Location
    West Gippsland, Vic
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    72
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    4,608

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    I gave up trying to get my King Resaws done so I bought Lennox Blades (from Henry Bros from memory) to replace them. Much cheaper from memory and the quality was excellent. Sadly, I no longer have the Laguna SUV 14 the were for.
    If you never made a mistake, you never made anything!


  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2018
    Location
    Newcastle
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    My 19mm lennox was $180 (recent buy). The King would have been double that. 'Regular' blades from Felder are $44...

    So the lennox needs to last more than 4 x longer than a normal blade to make it cost effective (that's not counting how well it cuts/how nice it is to use). The King would need to last 9x as long...

    If sharpening @ $50 got double the life out of it, it would start to look a bit better.

    But I do wonder whether just buying a normal blade (or getting 100m roll and making my own) might be just as good/cost effective. I'll let y'all know in a year or two!

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,810

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    I have sharpened my carbide blades (1" 1.3 tpi Lennox Woodmaster CT) using a Dremel and a diamond disk.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    5,124

    Default

    Ah!

    Did this! There is a jig I used and a cheap diamond file. Let me get the right links and products.

    Worked ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANTLY.

    edit - Here - Darren Oates made one that is exactly the same in function: Sharpening Your Bandsaw Blades - Australian Wood Review

    I think I gained the original idea some years ago after talking here about exactly this problem of sharpening carbide on my RSK for the SUV14". I've since moved to Lennox Woodmaster CT blades, which IMO are better (and cheaper).

    Nothing wrong with the RSK, but I had one snap not too far into its life and well, it cost a lot to fix and it broke again soon after - too short for a re-re-fix.

    The touch ups take no time at all. The jig is dead easy to "tune". I took my diamond plates off the red sticks sold at Bunnings.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    6

    Default

    Try Fitch saw sharpening in Fyshwick Canberra.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Brisbane
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    1,766

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    Combined Saw and Knife in Deception Bay Qld do them as well. Sharpen that is.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
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    7,696

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    I am interested in how much work was done to cause the RK blade to be declared blunt. I have Lennox carbide that I bought from Henry Brothers some years ago and it appears to still be in good condition. I know it is hard to compare one user's experience with blades to another but the question remains, just how much work they really do compared to a bi-metal conventional blade.
    CHRIS

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
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    Canberra
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    My experience is that the carbide saws are absolutely worth 100 times the price.

    The cut is without compare, the noise is less, they are dead easy to sharpen (using the jig above) and they dont cost much more.

    My first was the RSK, which was impressive. After a LOT of work I had it sharpened by Henry Bros. Fitches (Canberra local) would not do it. It then did even more work.

    After each days use it was de-tensioned.

    After it snapped twice (same place) and became too short due to the repairs I bought the WoodMaster. It is absolutely as good as the RSK and I would unhesitatingly buy another if needed.

    I dont remember the price, but I would *guess* that it was 1/3rd the price of the RSK.

    My personal opinion? The Lennox has now done more work, is still on the same sharpen and it showing no sign of fatigue.

  13. #12
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
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    489

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    One of the problems with bandsaw blades is that they fatigue and finally fail They often fail at the butt weld where the band is joined or they develop "gullet cracks", hair-line cracks that start in the gullet of the blade. Some sharpening machines for conventional blades actually grind down part of the gullet to remove these fine cracks before they go too far and the blade fails. The other thing is the diameter of the bandwheels in relation to the thickness of the blade. Thick blades need big wheels to minimise the sharpness of the bend the blade has to endure each revolution. As the band gets wider it also gets thicker and sometimes the wheel diameter to blade thickness ratio gets exceeded and the blade fails prematurely. Once again, there are some magic numbers you need to look for to get the best combination of wheel size to blade size for long life.
    The tungsten tips may well still be sharp but the steel band that they are bonded to could easily just die of fatigue due to a poor choice of materials and wheel sizes.

  14. #13
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    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Old Hilly View Post
    One of the problems with bandsaw blades is that they fatigue and finally fail They often fail at the butt weld where the band is joined or they develop "gullet cracks", hair-line cracks that start in the gullet of the blade. Some sharpening machines for conventional blades actually grind down part of the gullet to remove these fine cracks before they go too far and the blade fails. The other thing is the diameter of the bandwheels in relation to the thickness of the blade. Thick blades need big wheels to minimise the sharpness of the bend the blade has to endure each revolution. As the band gets wider it also gets thicker and sometimes the wheel diameter to blade thickness ratio gets exceeded and the blade fails prematurely. Once again, there are some magic numbers you need to look for to get the best combination of wheel size to blade size for long life.
    The tungsten tips may well still be sharp but the steel band that they are bonded to could easily just die of fatigue due to a poor choice of materials and wheel sizes.
    OH, as mentioned elsewhere, bandsaw wheels under 16"-17" should avoid the thicker and wider blades, such as Lenox Woodmaster for carbide re-sawing. I believe that the Resaw King is significantly thinner.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  15. #14
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    May 2009
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    NSW
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    Too true Derek, most bandsaws that are small enough to fit in a garage and cheap enough to afford are totally unsuitable for running wide (which generally means thicker) blades. If you put enough tension on them to get the blade tensioned correctly they will probably bend somewhere embarrassing or the blade will fail prematurely due to being flexed more than it was designed to.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
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    Brisbane
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    I run a 18mm 3tpi tungsten blade when the work calls for it. The blade that I use most is a bi-metal 3/8 3 tpi. I have a couple of finer blades but they hardly get used.
    There ain't no devil, it's just god when he's drunk!!

    Tom Waits

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