Thread: Cardinal Sin

Originally Posted by Kidbee

Anyway, despite holding on with a very firm grip there was a noisy clunk and it jammed the blade and the episode caused a cold sweat over my body.

You are not alone on this one. I have had similar situations a number of times when doing bandsaw boxes. Trying to cut the front off an irregularly shaped drawer that doesn't have sufficient support from the table and just thinking I would be able to get away with it. The problem being most times it is ok, but it is the one that get jammed that makes you jump (and often buckles the blade) - not really worth the risk.

In relation to what you can cut with your blade - I was on the understanding that for safety there needs to be a certain number of teeth in the material being cut. If the answer isn't forthcoming I will have to look up a bandsaw book or two to see what the recommendation is. I would think that in your case the branch has rolled and been caught in the blade, something that could happen with either blade size.

Cheers

Stinky

Hi,
I had the same problem with cross-cutting round logs. It scared me a lot so I built a jig specially for this work.
It is a jig (about 400mm long) with an L cross-section. It uses a modified 50mm wide tie-down belt with a ratchet (same as what truck drivers use to tie down loads on the back of trucks).
A log is placed onto the L, e.g. LO where O is the cross-section of the log, and then the belt tightened around the LO so the log fits into the V of the L. I then slide it into the blade of the bandsaw.
Cheers
Paul

Thanks for your reply guys. I am also hoping someone can comment about the type of blade I am using. Should I only use it for ripping and forget presenting stuff to it in the round? Should I purchase one with more teeth?

Originally Posted by Kidbee

Thanks for your reply guys. I am also hoping someone can comment about the type of blade I am using. Should I only use it for ripping and forget presenting stuff to it in the round? Should I purchase one with more teeth?

Let me preface my remarks by saying I am by no means an "expert" on bandsaw blades.

I have recently purchased a 20 pitch blade like that to resaw some blackwood slabs. It did a great job on them but I took it off at the end of that job and replaced it with my "normal" 6tpi blade.

I also have a 3 tpi blade.

For a 70mm branch I would not use my 20 pitch blade, especially not for cross cutting. Depending on how hard the wood was I would either use the 6tpi or the 3tpi. In either case I would tend to use my bandsaw sled for cross cutting, it is a very simple one using my mitre gauge and a plywood base and fence.

Like Fred above, I am no expert.

I spent Saturday morning cutting down some dumped timber at the woodclub. Just Gidgee, Mulga and other nice soft timbers . . .

Crosscutting was done on a V sled or with a flat on the larger sections - use a jointer to get a flat and check prior to cutting for no rock n roll. On the longer branches 2 people controlled the timber. We use 1/2" 6tpi blade as general purpose, with only a few of the competent/confident members allowed to change blades for differing purposes. At home I use a 3/8 3tpi or 1/2 6tpi blade. I do have a 1" 3tpi blade for ripping only.

Changing a blade takes about a minute versus scaring yourself or worse, when you neglect to use the correct blade for the job. Your choice . . .

PS, My Hammer is on order, my target is December to have all the readies for it

When the blade jammed in the wood the blade stopped rapidly and the first thing I thought was that it threw itself off the wheel, but that was not the case. Then I thought it must have been slipping on the wheels. Have been researching the matter further and found this information on a similar machine to mine which is advertised through Machinery House.

"4 horsepower electric motor 3x400V ,Single Phase also availbleElectric brake which stops the blade in seconds.
Solid Cast iron flywheels (not small spoked type)
Hardened steel guides above and below the table
a very robust cast iron table.
Machine weighs about 200 KG."

My bandsaw is roughly 2 years old. So when it stopped abruptly in the wood was an electric brake the reason? Reading the Hammer manual there seems to be no mention of an electric brake. Is it an optional extra or it is only on the very latest models?

It is hard to believe that I have only had three replies to this thread, considering the fact that thousands of you must have a bandsaw, with a lot of forum members owning a Hammer Bandsaw like mine.

Maybe it was my fault for not producing a better subject heading.

Originally Posted by Kidbee

It is hard to believe that I have only had three replies to this thread, considering the fact that thousands of you must have a bandsaw, with a lot of forum members owning a Hammer Bandsaw like mine.

Maybe it was my fault for not producing a better subject heading.

I'm not sure what you wanted us to say. I count more than three replies, but either way, I thought the first couple of guys had covered it well enough.

Its generally considered that you should have a minimum of 3 teeth in the wood. Timberwolf recommend "Always try to keep 6 to 8 teeth in the cut at all times." A band with teeth at a 20mm pitch would not be safe to cut round stock of 70mm dia.

I will chip in with my observation having worked out (the hard way) that it is not worth trying to cut anything that is not properly supported. This goes for any blade, crosscutting or ripping. You need either a flat base so the work wont roll or a jig to hold it. You can get away with it sometimes with smaller tooth blades but then you are developing sloppy practice and building up to an injury one day. Better to stick to basic good safe bandsaw practice.
Regards
John

Hi,
my understanding is that my Hammer bandsaw has an electronic brake so when I push the OFF button, there is a strange noise and the blade slows down real fast (about 10 seconds). If the power was just switched off, then the cast iron wheels would continue rotating for 2 to 3 minutes under their momentum - like my old 14" bandsaw used to do.
Paul

Paul, my blade stopped pretty well instantly and it suffered no damage. Makes me think that the clunk I heard was the brake taking effect. However, I have perused the manual a couple of times but there is no mention of a safety break.

The blade is a good blade. Cross cutting any round section on a BS is done at your own peril and the risks escalate as the number of teeth reduce. It is generally conceded not to be the safest thing in the world as you have found. It can be done with practise but why risk damage and personal injury. A clamping jig will overcome the risk if you need to cross cut and have no other choice.

Hi to all,
Gary, I somehow missed this thread.
I have an 1987 14in. B/S,. Has never missed a beat.
All my cutting is done on my B/S.
I have only used 1 Blade Type, & that is a 3/8" x 6TPI, & I cut everything with that Blade.
Now, in saying that, I do No Precision Cutting.
Round Stuff is cut effortlessly, & with 1 Hand, mainly.
OK, so you think that is Dangerous. I do it mainly to prove a point.
Many yrs ago, I used a 4 TPI Blade on some round timber.
Nearly dirtied my trousers, as it grabbed the wood, & I was unable to free it from the wood.
So to get it out is another Story.
I don't like cutting 5½in. Round Timber, as The Blade cannot get rid of the Sawdust quick enough, & then it may Catch or simply stop the saw.