Thread: What Carter Stabilizer to use for the H&F BP355?

Why not try without the guides? The Carter device is more of a thrust wheel than an actual guide.

Don

Tried it without a stabilizer. It may be the block I'm trying to cut or maybe my technique.

But the radius of my turns is woeful in that the blade is twisting rather than cutting a corner. And the kerf is so narrow that backing the blade up has pulled the blade right off the wheels.

I felt the need to do something to add a bit more tension to the blade - more than just winding the wheels up a bit that is.

A new or better blade might also do the trick - something else I want to try.

But the stabilizer isn't super expensive and I was impressed by the videos I saw of it - marketing products though they may be.

Carter stabilisers do exactly what you want it to do - i have one.
There is an info sheet showing most of those available -but not all.
I have it if you give me your email address - its a pdf so can't attach..

What is the dia you are trying to cut, and what blade width?

Originally Posted by ppofandt

Tried it without a stabilizer. It may be the block I'm trying to cut or maybe my technique.

But the radius of my turns is woeful in that the blade is twisting rather than cutting a corner. And the kerf is so narrow that backing the blade up has pulled the blade right off the wheels.

I felt the need to do something to add a bit more tension to the blade - more than just winding the wheels up a bit that is.

A new or better blade might also do the trick - something else I want to try.

But the stabilizer isn't super expensive and I was impressed by the videos I saw of it - marketing products though they may be.

I might suggest that your radius is tighter than the blade will allow.
In theory, the only reason the blade is twisting is the back of the blade is caught in the kerf.
You have to be able to guide the work into the teeth without the back of the blade contacting the kerf.
There is a limit to how much scroll work can be done on a bandsaw. That is why there are scroll saws [emoji41].

But you haven't told us your current blade width, or how tight the turn is.
The charts say a 1/8" blade can cut a minimum 3/16" radius.
For backing out, many suggest rounding the back of the blade with a stone. Check it out.

The Carter guide is providing thrust support, and the little reindeer he cuts, is not particularly demanding. These cool curvy demos are done by Carter, various blade representatives, machine manufacturers. They are not being deceptive, but they are well practiced in showing their skill within the capabilities of the equipment being promoted.

Don

Originally Posted by Don Burch

I might suggest that your radius is tighter than the blade will allow.
In theory, the only reason the blade is twisting is the back of the blade is caught in the kerf.

Definitely a possibility. I had originally thought that I might be able to get a blade with a slightly wider kerf. That would allow for tighter turns at the expense of more timber removed (wider cuts).

But you haven't told us your current blade width, or how tight the turn is.

I'm using a 6mm blade (2750 x 6.2 x 0.65mm, 6tpi) and the tightest turn I'm attempting would be a 50-60mm diameter circle. Should be more than do-able. I've done it in the past. I'm just having troubles this time.
I haven't tried that particular cut yet as I was having troubles cutting even wider turns on the outside.
The blade I'm using may be part of the problem. I suspect it's a little sub-optimal for the purpose I'm putting it to. it's the narrow blade that came with my BP-355. Might also be worth my while investing in a new 6mm blade, and possibly a 3mm one too, from one of the more reliable manufacturers.

For backing out, many suggest rounding the back of the blade with a stone. Check it out.

I'd forgotten about that step. Might give that a try too.

They are not being deceptive, but they are well practiced in showing their skill within the capabilities of the equipment being promoted.

Ya. I totally understand this.

Originally Posted by ppofandt

I'm using a 6mm blade.. and the tightest turn I'm attempting would be a 50-60mm diameter circle..

too small a radius for that blade

Originally Posted by ppofandt

..Should be more than do-able. I've done it in the past..

Not without bending the blade

Ya. Might have been a bit more than that I'm guessing.
I did it by backing up and cutting in a bit tighter. Left a ragged cut but that as in an area that was to be sanded out.

But a finer blade may be called for here. I might make a few calls around Brisbane and see hat I can get. There's more than a few posts on this forum with information on blade manufacturers around SE Qld.

Originally Posted by ppofandt

Definitely a possibility. I had originally thought that I might be able to get a blade with a slightly wider kerf. That would allow for tighter turns at the expense of more timber removed (wider cuts).


I'm using a 6mm blade (2750 x 6.2 x 0.65mm, 6tpi) and the tightest turn I'm attempting would be a 50-60mm diameter circle. Should be more than do-able. I've done it in the past. I'm just having troubles this time.
I haven't tried that particular cut yet as I was having troubles cutting even wider turns on the outside.
The blade I'm using may be part of the problem. I suspect it's a little sub-optimal for the purpose I'm putting it to. it's the narrow blade that came with my BP-355. Might also be worth my while investing in a new 6mm blade, and possibly a 3mm one too, from one of the more reliable manufacturers.


I'd forgotten about that step. Might give that a try too.

Ya. I totally understand this.

Now we have good info to work with.

So in this colony 6.0mm is roughly 1/4". A 50-60mm hole diameter is 2.0 - 2.3" diameter/2 = 1.0" - 1.15" radius. Well within the capability of that blade.

The charts I have looked at suggest a 1/4" blade has a minimum cutting radius of 5/8" or ~16mm . What you are trying to do is well within the tolerances of your blade.

Manufacturer supplied blades are notoriously not the best. When I bought my saw at a trade show, the distributor told me to throw the factory blade in the trash and pointed me to a couple of blade only dealers. If you have used this blade before, it may by at end of life.

Get a new blade - get 2 - and try again.

Due to shop reorganization, my 14" saw is out of service, buy as soon as I can, I will get it back in service and do some test cuts. In the interim, perhaps someone else can try cutting a few circles and report back.

Regards

Don

Originally Posted by ppofandt

Ya. Might have been a bit more than that I'm guessing.
I did it by backing up and cutting in a bit tighter. Left a ragged cut but that as in an area that was to be sanded out.

But a finer blade may be called for here. I might make a few calls around Brisbane and see hat I can get. There's more than a few posts on this forum with information on blade manufacturers around SE Qld.

Finer is not always better as the teeth will tend to clog up with dust and resin faster. Cutting is slower so you tend to push harder creating more heat than dust, which hastens the dulling of the teeth.
Compared to a table saw, where the wide teeth scoop away the dust, a bandsaw cut is more of a slicing action. The amount of dust that can be removed is restricted by the gullet size. More teeth per inch is less gullet per inch. Be careful.

Band sawing seldom produces a finish cut. A lot of people use variable pitch blades - alternating 3/4 teeth per inch to get some pretty nice cuts. Theses combinations are not normally found in narrow blade - less than 1/2".

Also, wood is not manufactured to any specification. Two trees, same species can have different properties. I can slice a 1/16" veneer from five different species and get 5 different surfaces. Being able to cut a particular species consistently, allows you to plan for the next step in the process. All part of the fun and challenge.

I have attached a blade guide from a well respected manufacturer in Canada. It is a good reference document.

Don

Canada Bandsaw Blades 2014.pdf

Don,
what button did you use to attach the pdf? The image button doesn't include pdf's.
Chris

When you force a blade to go around a corner, you end up putting a lot of pressure on the set of the teeth, eventually straightening out all the teeth. Once you have a zero set blade, the blade is only ok for straight cuts. a 1/4" blade which have properly, and evenly, set teeth will cut the curves you are trying to very very easily. 1/4" blades easily cut around a 20cent piece.

Originally Posted by Chrism3

Don,
what button did you use to attach the pdf? The image button doesn't include pdf's.
Chris

.
Don
Sorry guys. Bad file name

I realize this is a pretty old post but wonder if anyone can shed some light on which model stabilizer from Carter fits the BP-355 saw please?