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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Parkside - South Australia
    Age
    45
    Posts
    3,318

    Default

    I have just had a thought ..... it may be possible to make up a second guide holder that will support the square guides.
    Pictures 2 and 3 show the holder that would require replacement. It would simply be the case of making a guide to hold the square blocks and use the single bolt to hold it back on the machine. The blocks would end up sitting lower than the current guides but that shouldn't be a problem.
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Palmerston Nth
    Posts
    16

    Default

    How do these get on with 1" bands, to control wandering/tracking.

    What makes the bearing guides noisey..is it the band resonating or cheap bearings.

    All I can add to this thread is to clarify misconceptions on the thrust bearing orientation. As setup in the pics here the thrust bearing presents a muck wider support than orientating the thrust bearing to roll against the back of the blade band, and thus help reduce concentrated pressure point bowing on the blade under thrust. A lot of users don't seem to understand this, from what I can assertain locating the band about 25% in seems best

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Jindabyne
    Age
    74
    Posts
    158

    Default

    I had a broken guide holder on my BP14. It had round holes. I had 12 months ago (at the wood) show brought 4 square blocks with rollers (thinking they seem like a good Idea!!!) of course the top ones are square and the bottom ones are round.

    Hare and Horbes had the correct guide assembly but in the process of obtaining a replacement I was shown the guide assembly off something else. it had square holes for the guide blocks and a hex shaft on the rear bearing ( the bearings on a round bit). The rear bearing and shaft is part of the assembly). Problem was the mounting slot was on the opposite side of the assembly.

    Problem solved by a piece of 1/4 steel plate about 50 X 40. Counter sunk 6mm setscrews held the plate in place using the original holes. New holes were then drilled and tapped to attach the guide block assembly which slides backwards and forwards for setting.

    I then resawed some big hardwood 300mm using a shop built ( don't you like this euphamism for Home made) the bearing guides and my Henry Bros 1" 1&1/4 TPI Blade. Boy that mothers scary ( and sharp). TTit's Rollers would be a big help.

    I only did this on Monday night so it was very timely. Of course the ceramic guide blocks would go in the square holes. The assembly was about $43.00

    I dont have pictures Rug rat 30years has stolen Mums digital camera which I bought her so I could use. Rug rat makes cakes and displays her portfolio on Internet. Her Camera is cactus and of course it is cheaper to buy a similar featured camera for the repair cost even though it was originally $1600 three years ago.

    The part No is BX057A Lower guide assembly 152 to 159 if any one needs it.
    Brian
    Creator of Fine Firewood

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Emerald, QLD
    Posts
    4,489

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Outsider
    I dont have pictures Rug rat 30years has stolen Mums digital camera which I bought her so I could use. Rug rat makes cakes and displays her portfolio on Internet. Her Camera is cactus and of course it is cheaper to buy a similar featured camera for the repair cost even though it was originally $1600 three years ago.

    The part No is BX057A Lower guide assembly 152 to 159 if any one needs it.
    Would like to see some pics when you can Outsider! Don't know if the BP14 has the same mongrel setup as the BS16A to see how it fits together. My issue at present is that I can't set the guides back far enough to adjust the drift out of my 1/4" blade. It's OK when I'm using wider blades but I'm getting sick of swapping blades everytime I want to rip boards. The upper guide assembly is pretty lousy all-round so I'm looking for a complete replacement.
    .
    Updated 8th of February 2024

  6. #20
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Turramurra, NSW
    Posts
    2,267

    Default Come in Outsider....

    Outsider

    I have the same BS as you and the same blade from Henry's.

    If I use it on thick 125mm hardwood, it jams and the saw stops dead. I suspect its the speed.

    May I ask what speed (pulleys) you run on with success?

    I haven't sought help before cause I'm a bit embarrassed as to the tale of woe my bandsaw has become.
    Bodgy
    "Is it not enough simply to be able to appreciate the beauty of the garden without it being necessary to believe that there are faeries at the bottom of it? " Douglas Adams

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Boyne Island, Queensland
    Age
    51
    Posts
    929

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by errolc
    What makes the bearing guides noisey..is it the band resonating or cheap bearings.
    Not 100% sure but I think it's due to having a steel blade running on a steel bearing.
    Dan

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    In the shed, Melbourne
    Age
    52
    Posts
    6,883

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan
    Not 100% sure but I think it's due to having a steel blade running on a steel bearing.

    G'day,

    I just want to know if they work like they're written up as. Noise, what's that matter? When I use the b/saw I also have the dusty going which means a lot of noise and I'm wearing earmuffs anyway.

    Unless there's a better option. But it'd be a visit to C/T to get them as I've got other stuff to get too. So it'd be easier for me to get the whole lot from one source.
    I make things, I just take a long time.

    www.brandhouse.net.au

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Jindabyne
    Age
    74
    Posts
    158

    Default

    TTIT
    The blade stops sure enough. It needs a real slow speed and I think it would be better if I screwed the block to a stable carrier jig. when it stops is usually when the log moves twisting the blade slightly I think. If you have a stable carrier/Jig is possibly all feed speed and pressure. The blade stalls but the motor does not stall. I will have to make a resawing carriage/jig. Too many things to do not enough time to do them.

    My BP14 is quite old and was in a set construction workshop so could have had a hard life. I am gradually getting the setup sorted out. I also own a 36" Wadkin 3 phase Bandsaw which would do a much better job but it is in Melbourne. Still at the source, I have been trying to get it to Sydney for about 12 months ( not very hard mind you). Maybe I will soon have to go down and pick it up. 3 phase unfortunately will cost about $2000 to connect to the garage so I am not in a hurry.
    Brian
    Creator of Fine Firewood

  10. #24
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    1,024

    Default

    The blade stalls but the motor does not stall.
    Ok then, something is slipping. Maybe the drive belt is loose or worn, or the tyres are clogged with sawdust...

    3 phase unfortunately will cost about $2000 to connect
    I read somewhere that you can get an electronics gadget that fakes 3 phase from a normal outlet, and it apparently works well. Bet it costs less than $2k, worth checking out.

    woodbe.

  11. #25
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Jindabyne
    Age
    74
    Posts
    158

    Default

    Wood be Your right about the sliping but I am happy to allow it to happen at present as the blade is usually very difficult to back off the cut. Of course by this time the say is also turned off.

    I'm sure I will make better cuts later but 30mm in dryish hardwood is a big ask.

    Yes you can by single to 3 phase converters but last time I checked it was $1500 for a smallish one. My same vintage panel saw has a 5 HP main motor on it certainly not smallish. My retirement House (max 8 years away has three phase to the meter box already. I started supporting the bearers for excavating underneath for the toyroom (sorry workshop) only at Easter.
    Brian
    Creator of Fine Firewood

  12. #26
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ipswich
    Posts
    28

    Default

    Stinky,

    Just reading Carbatec latest 2006 catalogue and on page 47 there they were.

    Round ceramic upper and lower blade guide system. The carriers don't look a lot like my Bp16a quides or yours for that matter but the ceramic bearing rollers look like there is a chance that they will fit.

    Carbatec Cat Number is CBG-455 and the cost is $89.00

    Could not find it on there web site so here is a scan .

    Hope its big enough to see the details
    Ceramicguide.jpg

    Could be helpfull.

    John
    it's not me , it's you

  13. #27
    Join Date
    Nov 2001
    Location
    Parkside - South Australia
    Age
    45
    Posts
    3,318

    Default

    Thanks John,

    I don't know if the support guides would fit or not but I was thinking along those lines for the bearings. Buggered if I am paying $90 for it though, I think the modification of the ceramic thrust bearing may be the go.
    Now proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.

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