Thread: clean/rough cut

I don't usually expect too much from a bandsaw in terms of finish but a picture of the finish you are getting could be useful to help diagnose potential problems.

RE: it also leaves a bit of splintering on the bottom edge of a cross cut
You could try using a zero clearance throat plate or cutting on top of a thin piece of something sacrificial like 3mm MDF to see if they help.

Hi
The bandsaw from a joiners perspective is a used to cut shapes, profiles and to 'break down' timber. Regardless of the type of blade used, you should not expect the finish cut to be so good that it does not require some sanding.

It is a saw like all saws the quality of cut is dependant on two main factors, quality of teeth and set as well as feed speed (how quickly you feed the timber through the saw).

Your question is very common, especially with the apprentices I teach (I am a TAFE teacher), however there are no short cuts unfortunately.

From what you have said I think you technique is ok, but you will have to sand to some degree to get the final finish you require.

Hope this helps

Kevin

Could be a number of things, have you tried different blades?
Often a tooth or two can be overset which causes this.

Have you tried seeing if it was a build up of resin on the tires which need scraping off... if so,
Take note of the patterns before removal.

I suppose you could have a look at your belt also.

It could be an alignment problem either, do you have a long straight edge handy?
Check for parallel with your frame/aligned with motor pulley, top and bottom wheel.
Yo might need to get a plumb bob line if there is adjustment in the top wheel, possibly for wheel alignment
i.e to the column or guidepost, or wheel protrusion from the cabinet.
SAM_4630.jpgSAM_4633.jpg


After that, go back and measure each side from the top wheel, you might need a narrowish blade if it tracks too far forward,
This test is supposedly best done with the widest suitable blade for the machine though, take blade gauge into account if you have a light machine sub 200kg

This measurement is tricky to take from both sides of the wheel, if you had some rare earth magnets, it would make the job a lot easier, I reckon.
SAM_4595.jpgSAM_4572.jpg

Clamping the beam like below is no good, if you intend to do any adjustment whatsoever, note block under wheel, any adjustment will track the machine differently, so you won't get consistent results without going over all the tests again
SAM_4600.jpgSAM_4592.jpg



BEWARE of having you're belt too tight as any misalignment can toast your bearings fairly lively!!!!
If you plan on changing belts, even the same sized and branded one can have a massive difference in tension,
look what happened below.
I'd do all these tests with an old strechie first, and take notes if needing to replace after.

I learned this the hard way, that the wheel and motor alignment takes preference, rather than the guidepost.
Even if something is not adjustable, that's not to say you can't make it!
SAM_4615.jpg

Hope this helps

Tom

thanks a lot you guys

I've learnt a bit more

after a bit more playing around I'm finding a lot of the cut quality is down to technique ie a controlled consistent motion seems to help plus zero lateral movement, I tried using a featherboard with good results, everything still needed a good sand but thats ok

as I've said I have fitted this blade rather than the one supplied and have got fairly good results
I may experiment with other blades of varying tpi's and composition in the near future

Given that the saw is only 2 weeks old, I don't think I'll be looking for faults such as resin on the wheels or misalignment (maybe in years to come)
I was just wondering about the quality of cut compared to a well aligned table saw for example

I think Bobl and kph have answered that question and put my mind at rest

Cheers
Hodgo

well after resigning myself to the fact this bandsaw leaves grooves in the cut however straight

today I made a discovery while using it
it started to make a louder clunking noise than usual as I was cutting,
just as I was thinking the blade was self destructing
this very small fragment came off the blade and landed on the table
its about 2mm long and looks like a scrap of steel from around the teeth

this hasn't affected anything,in fact the cut is cleaner than ever, no more heavy sanding to get those grooves out
IMG_2189.jpg
so far so good

cheers
Hodgo

Well thats better out than in.
As to blades 6 tpi is a bit too fine for resawing. 3 tpi is more the go for that. These days I mostly have a 10mm 3 tpi blade in the saw as a multi purpose blade. Does most of the day to day tasks both shapes and some resawing. A 16mm 3 tpi for more serious resawing. I have also found that a 16mm blade is about as big as the saw (14'') will tension so I dont go bigger than that.
Regards
John

Originally Posted by orraloon

Well thats better out than in.
As to blades 6 tpi is a bit too fine for resawing. 3 tpi is more the go for that. These days I mostly have a 10mm 3 tpi blade in the saw as a multi purpose blade. Does most of the day to day tasks both shapes and some resawing. A 16mm 3 tpi for more serious resawing. I have also found that a 16mm blade is about as big as the saw (14'') will tension so I dont go bigger than that.
Regards
John

thanks John
I'll make a note of that

I'm heading to Sydney this week and Henry's is high on the list
cheers
Hodgo

It couldn't be a little part of a brad that was embedded in the wood could it?

Originally Posted by Treecycle

It couldn't be a little part of a brad that was embedded in the wood could it?

no, I could hear it coming around with the blade rotation and it seemed to get worse, now I cant hear it at all


not only that I've only ever cut new timber