Thread: Considering a bandsaw for small hobby shop

If you're thinking the Laguna route, I believe that there's a Harvey dealer in NZ - essentially the same machines.

I bought a Laguna 14bx - it's done everything I've asked of it and would have to be the most used bit of kit in my garage (by jobs, by hours it would be the thicknesser). But, I can see a drawback or two of the bx that would make me suggest that you buy an SUV (or the Harvey equivalent).

1. 1" resaw blades are much easier to come by than 3/4"
2. Bit more power is always good
3. A rack and pinion on the table vs a manual sliding trunion with clamps.

No having owned any of the saws that you've mentioned otherwise, I wouldn't comment on them, but there are some decent reviews of them elsewhere in the forum that would be good to read from the perspective of ownership and what tuning up they require, etc.

Based solely on the videos by Hammer, it does seem that changing the blade and setting the guides is quick and easy on the Hammers.
I think this is an important consideration if you are going to switch between resawing and cutting curves.

I realise you want to buy once but given: "If truth be told, while typing this I'm still not sure if I need it or if it's just a luxury buy."
Wouldn't you be better off buying something for less than $1,000 and see if you use it? See how you go for a year and then decide?

Whatever you do, I suggest you try and find another home for the washing machine and laundry basket.

I think that once you have a good bandsaw you'll wonder how you could have, or could, live without one. Anytime you want to resaw thick stock, rip narrow pieces (safer than table saw), cut a curve (jigsaw is a poor substitute in my opinion), cut a notch in something, cut tenons, lap joints etc. Given the tools you have already bought I think you would be dissapointed with a cheaper saw.

Cheers, Dom

The only trouble with owning a good BS is that you want a second one to avoid changing blades so often.

Originally Posted by DomAU

. .. . .(safer than table saw)

It depends on what you are looking at.
Long terms injury stats don't actually support that BS are safer than BS.
Tables saws a have a MUCH longer "hours of use per incident" and "Much longer hours of use to first incident" for both DIYers and Pro operators. The reason people think TS are more dangerous is maybe because there are so many more of them out there than BS, so the incident numbers are higher.

In an opposite sense operators think BS are safer and so are perhaps a bit more casual with them leading to more injuries.
Both will cut digits and limbs off with equal speed and efficiency.
A TS does have a greater capacity to throw wood across or even out of a workshop and hence a greater potential for greater injuries and even in rare/extreme cases kill.

Thanks for all that. I've decided to get the main components into place first - TS, Dusty and Planer/Jointer, play around with them for a few months, try some different layouts / mobile layouts etc then will pull the trigger on the BS. At this time I am thinking of the new Jet's - 15" around $3200 Kiwi. The Hammer, while more powerful is also significantly more expensive and when you add in a few other things such as base, ceramic guides etc is getting up there. Thanks all for the help. No doubt I will get one, just will do a bit more due diligence re the projects I'm also working on.

Yeah. Washing machine and tumble dryer have no other homes they can goto. Seems to be a kiwi thing - either a standalone laundry room or encapsulated in the garage by a big sink. We have the latter..IF i were back in Scotland, it would be in the kitchen..Funny how it moves rooms around the globe

Originally Posted by BobL

It depends on what you are looking at.
Long terms injury stats don't actually support that BS are safer than BS.
Tables saws a have a MUCH longer "hours of use per incident" and "Much longer hours of use to first incident" for both DIYers and Pro operators. The reason people think TS are more dangerous is maybe because there are so many more of them out there than BS, so the incident numbers are higher.

In an opposite sense operators think BS are safer and so are perhaps a bit more casual with them leading to more injuries.
Both will cut digits and limbs off with equal speed and efficiency.
A TS does have a greater capacity to throw wood across or even out of a workshop and hence a greater potential for greater injuries and even in rare/extreme cases kill.

I was really only referring to cutting narrow strips, which I believe is far safer on the band saw than the table saw with the TS blade close to the fence and using narrow push-sticks or hands near the blade etc. Also it's hard to have overhead dust collection when the fence is right next to the blade so I tend to use the band-saw in those cases as it doesn't have that limitation.

Interesting that band-saws, statistically could be more dangerous than a TS though. I would not have picked-it, and I think you may be correct about over-confidence playing a part in that case.

Cheers,

Dom

Originally Posted by DomAU

I was really only referring to cutting narrow strips, which I believe is far safer on the band saw than the table saw with the TS blade close to the fence and using narrow push-sticks or hands near the blade etc.

Sure - probably agree there. I since found out he had to cut quite a few strips which is what probably drew him to use the TS

Also it's hard to have overhead dust collection when the fence is right next to the blade so I tend to use the band-saw in those cases as it doesn't have that limitation.

Not really an issue for thin shallow strips. A shallow L shaped secondary fence clamped onto the main fence allows for the use of most TS guards and OH dust collection

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Machine and tool stats injuries are really interesting. The one that stuck me was that DIYers had the same injuries per operator as pros, including across a wide range of machines and even so called simple tools like hammers and chisels. Pros of course have much greater exposure but possibly add to their woes by a greater degree of over confidence. There's a similar effect with chainsaw injuries.

Hi,
one thing to check out with the Hammer N4400 is whether the wiring to your workshop can handle the extra current demanded by this bandsaw?
I had to go up to a 15Amp wall socket and corresponding 15Amp extension cord with the plug as required by the Hammer; luckily the house circuit used 2.5 sq mm wiring so it could provide the current. This added an extra $100+ to the cost.

HI Paul. Neighbour Sparky putting in a couple of extra circuits into the garage - a 15 amp for the TS and a 20 amp for the jointer /planer and possibly the n4400 if and when i pull the trigger on it.