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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Maryland
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    6

    Default Delta 14" bandsaw wheel tight

    I bought a display model delta 14" bandsaw #28-276. I got it for less then half price and made in USA and in like new never used condition. This is the open base model 3/4hp and the last of this model of the USA built bandsaws before being made elsewhere.

    The top wheel where the bandsaw blade goes around does not move freely as it feels tight. I haven't looked more closely at it yet to see what the problem is. Does anyone have any suggestion as to what I should look for to have the wheel move freely. The bandsaw blade is not on the machine now. Thanks in advace for your help. Dave

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ballarat Vic
    Posts
    13

    Default

    the top wheel should spin fairly easily, it may just be crud built up in the bearings or you may need to replace them, if it just feels sticky it is most likely crud, if there is a grinding sound it is more likely that the bearings are shot

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Garvoc VIC AUSTRALIA
    Posts
    11,464

    Default

    Either the wheel is fouling on something or the bearings are starting to freeze up
    Regards, Bob Thomas

    www.wombatsawmill.com

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    6

    Default delta bandsaw

    I think this is an older delta open base bandsaw that has been sitting in the store for possibly several years or more. I doubt it this bandsaw was ever turned on and used. Maybe having it sit around caused the bearing to get tight. Maybe if I run it the bearings might work loose and fix it self. I paid $232.00 usd. A price to low to pass up. It was marked down to make room for the new delta bandsaws made in china. It wasn't marked down because there was something wrong with it. This bandsaw I just bought seems to be made heavy duty. Thanks for your input. dave

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Alexandra Vic
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,810

    Default

    If the problem is bearings, trying to 'run' it will only make the problem worse. Bearings that are getting stiff do not improve with additional work, they deteriorate more rapidly.

    I do not know the saw, but the bearings should not cost a lot, and it should not take more than an hour or so to swap them.

    In order to run the wheel to try and free the bearings, you need a blade fitted. If you are lucky, the blade will just come off if the bearings go, but if they seize, there is a fair chance of either overloading and burning the motor, or breaking a perfectly good new blade before it even gets to cut timber.

    For my money, I would replace the bearings rather than risk further problems.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    I dunno 'bout the Delta, but I'd imagine the manual has an exploded view? I don't suppose you're lucky enough to have roller-bearings and not sealed bearings? (Then a simple wash & relube would be all that's needed. Sometimes there are benefits to old-school technology. )

    But most modern jobs use sealed bearings, in which case I agree with malb: just replace 'em.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  8. #7
    Join Date
    May 1999
    Location
    Tooradin,Victoria,Australia
    Age
    73
    Posts
    11,918

    Default

    There is a possibility that the centre bolt that holds the top wheel on and acts as an axle is too tight.

    Shop staff aren't too bright in the assembly process at times.

    I personally would check the whole machine if it was a display model.

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Oberon, NSW
    Age
    63
    Posts
    13,360

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    There is a possibility that the centre bolt that holds the top wheel on and acts as an axle is too tight.

    Shop staff aren't too bright in the assembly process at times.

    I personally would check the whole machine if it was a display model.
    Ah... yes. The good ol' "what's this lock-washer for?" "Dunno, just bung it in there somewhere so it won't get lost" scenario.

    Bought my DC from the floor-stock during the "spite sale" at Bayswater Carbatec. (They were the days. ) After a couple of weeks it started making a horrendous noise and, on checking, the nut had come off the impeller, which was rubbing on the casing.

    On removing the impeller I discovered the cause... the flat- and a lock-washers were still sitting on the drive shaft... ie. on the wrong side!
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    The Fabulous Gold-plated Coast.
    Age
    69
    Posts
    3,925

    Default

    Louis Ittura at Ittura Designs in Florida is the Delta saw guru. He sells a whole catalogue of stuff for them, and has a deep knowledge base.

    +1 for the likelihood of a bad assembly by shop staff. Otherwise perhaps the bearings got wet sometime and rusted? Either way, ball bearings of that general size are cheap.

    Ittura didn't have a web presence last time I looked, but he has an 800 number.

    Greg

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Maryland
    Posts
    6

    Default Problem fixed

    I had bought the bandsaw and had it set aside for a while till I finally looked at it. The adjustment knob was tightened up to where the wheel moved tightly. Just loosening it freed the top wheel up and now it moves freely. It does have sealed bearings.

    Delta bandsaws made in USA are very good bandsaws. I own another delta enclosed base bandsaw with optional 6" riser block installed and made in USA. I have noticed the open base bandsaws made in china the bases are being made smaller I guess cheaper in cost and quality. Thanks for everyones help.

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