Thread: Advice wanted re Carba-Tec bandsaws

Derek,
I have had a Carba-tec B/Saw for the last 12 months.
Mine is their 14" standard - SW -1401
I assume you are looking at either Catalogue models SBW-3501 or more probably BAS -350

The features I do not have are the hinged wheel covers, dust extractor port, or deluxe rip fence.

Comments
* The wheel covers don't need to be taken off all that often , and undoing 4 nuts is not time consuming
* dust extractor port - a good feature, but how effective it is , I can't comment. My experience would be that dust extraction from a bandsaw is almost as difficult as dust extraction form a CSMS
* the usefulness of the fence would depend upon what other cutting machines you have access to. I use my bandsaw for making turning blanks approx. round, or free-wheeling cutting of other contours.

the price difference between the SW-1401 and the other two could easily be spent on a variety of specialist blades, or deluxe blade guides, or perhaps a 6" riser kit

Mick

[This message has been edited by Mick4412 (edited 06 January 2003).]

Mick,

I've got the same, but recently bought a dust port for it. It makes a difference. still get dust on the table, but almost nil under or in wheel housing.

GC

Mick

Mick

Thanks for your comments.

I have bought the bandsaw (above) but not yet opened the box - I'm only permitted to do so on my birthday on Saturday. All I can say is that it is not any of the numbers you mentioned. I believe it is a new Carba-tec item. I'll report back on the # and machine later.

Derek (in Perth)

Derek
Happy Birthday for Saturday.
I have just come in from the garage/workshop, and with a friend of mine have just had a conversation re bandsaws, I had another more close look at mine.
I am very happy with it, but can now make some more suggestions.
The blade guides underneath mine consist of a pair of nylon blocks thro' which the blade passes, supported at the back of the blade by a roller bearing.
The nylon blocks, both above the table and beneath are showing signs of being chewed out, as you would expect. Pictures of Carba-tecs deluxe roller guides suggest they may eliminate not only the problem of chew-out, but may also keep the blade more in line with contour work.

I'm going down to see them later in the week. The odd $88 dollars could be a good investment - if I can be convinced that the extra accuracy achieved without the normal small blade run-off will result from the roller guides
Will look forward to an update from you

regards
mick

[This message has been edited by Mick4412 (edited 07 January 2003).]

Derek,
At the risk of pre-longing my reply to you, I have just spent the last hour cutting out circular tops for some pedestal tables which I am doing. The tops are made from a dressed 32mm Jarrah slab which I have. I have now noticed a gap in the top nylon guides - almost 5mm - due obviously to wear over a period of time. Any wonder I now have to spend extra time on the Lathe getting the tops circular , and without bandsaw teeth marks
Can't go to Carba-tec tomorrow as Wednesday is Golf day - but am off to them Thursday to buy their Deluxe Blade Guide - set is for both TOP & Bottom
Will post something referring to this on main bulletin board
mick

Mick

Thanks again for the info and your thoughts.

I've yet to assemble my bandsaw (or should I have my wife do it? Well, it is a birthday present!) but I have already begun to modify it. I purchased a set of roller bearings straight off, having immediately identified this as one upgrade. The other is to replace the fence with the "Professional Rip Fence" that Carba-Tec sells. The existing fence is a flimsy affair that requires screwing down separate front and rear rail bolts. I predict a frustrating time in setting the fence for micro adjustments (such as in cutting tenons). Further, I can get the aluminium fence to flex in the middle. The replacement is similar to the one on my tablesaw in that it has a single lever-clamp on the front rail.

The total should make a nice combination and, hopefully, will be a pleasure to use for some years to come. I'll let you know how it turns out.

Regards

Derek (in Perth)

deric re the fence
carbatec have an aftermarket funky fence as fitted to one of there better band saws
for cheap checkit out.

cheers

Gooday.

Except on very expensive bandsaws I have yet to find any full length fence any use on a bandsaw.

A cheap effective fence is to clamp a bit of timber in line with the teeth of the blade at about 45degrees to the angle of cut. I.E. you use the corner of the fence only as a guide. No binding, no fuss and a line as straight as a rip saw.

------------------
Ian () Robertson
"We do good turns every day"

I made an experts table and fence from an article from a magazine. With a few slight modifications for what I thought was a better design for me. I'm sure I posted all here. Have a search.

I'll have to agree with on the quality of fences and the simple accuracy of the cut compared to the distance of the blade to the fence.



------------------
Thanks,
Barry G. Sumpter
Proud Tritoneer
Triton Woodworkers Club Holmesglen

Picked up the SW-1401 + free Delta fence upgrade and enough left over for Chisel Mortiser

[This message has been edited by Dean (edited 02 February 2003).]

Now that my new bandsaw is assembled, I can report that it is a Carba-tec rebadged version of the Rigid. It is not yet in the Carba-tec catalogue but the number is BS 1400 (cost $750).

I am very impressed with the finish. The wheels were perfectly in line with each other. The cast iron table was flat and polished. While I replaced the fence (barely adequate) for the "Professional" model ($88), the mitre gauge is truly excellent (far better than my table saw's). The mitre gauge slot is the standard 3/4", which was not the norm with other bandsaws on sale (they were generally 1/4"). The dust extraction looks promising but I have not yet connected a hose to it.

In practice, the few cuts I have made were effortless and quiet. The blade can be tensioned to a higher degree than most, and the blade is easy to change. It came with a 10mm blade, which is not typical I believe. I will likely be adding a riser kit to it before adding other blades.

One quibble was the stand, which is about 50-75cm higher than I would prefer (I am 5'10").

Nice saw.

Derek (in Perth)

A belated happy birthday to you Derek. From a lot of reading that i have done, it would seem that the BS is the one stationary power tool that requires the most tuning up and TLC to keep it running accurately. The biggest concern, and one which is more than likely to have been discussed to death on this forum is the so-called "blade drift angle". This refers to the fact that a BS blade very rarely cuts square to the front of the table when ripping. As a result of this, many people advocate a "point fence" which is simply a narrow piece of wood, rounded or bevelled at the end which is clamped in line with the blade at the required distance from it. This allows the stock to be angled to accomdate the bldae drift angle and a straight cut to be made.
Others recomend measuring the blade drift angle by cutting some scrap and then setting the fence according to this. To make it even more complicated different blade and wood species/thickness combinations will result in different blade drift angles!!
Make sure your aftermarket replacement rip fence has the ability for the angle to be adjusted in relation to the front of the table otherwise you will find that the cut will wander in toward or out from the fence when ripping.
Furniture Making Techniques (Vol 1) by David Charlesworth, Making and mastering wood planes by David Finck and The fine art of cabinetmaking by James Krenov all have excellent sections of the tuning and use of BS's. D Charlesworth's book has some excellent articles on cutting tenons accurate to a few thou (using slips of paper as shims) as well as cutting through, lapped and twisted dovetails very accurately with some really great but simple jigs.
Happy sawing, and go to bed earlier!! Even the sparrows are asleep at 4:01 am.

Cheers Tim

Tim

Thanks for the wishes and advice. The book recommendations are great. I am presently re-reading Krenov. Why do you think his book was not illustrated in colour? On purpose? I will have a look at the others.

Oh, I would never write messages at 4 am! There is a three hour difference between the East and West coasts of Oz. It's 1 am here. Unfortunately, many a late night I am still writing reports (I'm a clinical psychologist), and I tend to peruse the bulletin boards as a way of winding down.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Usually, printing in full colour costs a lot more They may have been cost cutting?