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Thread: Easier green ripping!
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4th August 2008, 12:03 AM #1
Easier green ripping!
Just over 2 years ago I asked the Saw Doctor how to stop the sap and crap sticking to the blade and tyres when cutting real green timber and he suggested diesel. Never tried it 'cos I thought it might cause the blade to slip or stuff the tyres or something - until today! I was having a hard time ripping boards from some very green Black Ti tree and Geebung so I scraped the blade clean (as after nearly every cut) and put a few drops of diesel on a small rag and wiped the blade with it Couldn't believe the difference it made - cut cleaner and easier and didn't start to get build up again for about 6 cuts. I'll be keeping the diesel bottle close to the bandsaw in future thats for sure
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4th August 2008, 12:16 AM #2
Great tip Vern will keep that one in the memory bank
Cheers
DJ
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4th August 2008, 09:55 AM #3Cliff.
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4th August 2008, 10:09 AM #4.
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An old timer suggested turps on chainsaw chains to reduce gum stickage but i found that was near useless - must give diesel a try.
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16th August 2008, 12:24 AM #5Member
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diesel
G;day Vern I run Biodiesel in my landcruiser. Will that work too? What blades are you using for your ripping work? I am really struggling with some of the timbers I am trying to rip. Jarrah is my most difficult problem, the dust just seems to explode out of the timber and jamming and burning are the results. Havn't got to the samples yet. Kindest regards Hazard
how do I join up the shavings?
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16th August 2008, 12:49 AM #6
Two great tips, thanks fellas.
I will be trying diesel on the bandsaw and the chainsaw to stop sap glugging them up.- Wood Borer
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16th August 2008, 12:53 AM #7
Hazard,
You might like to try and use a coarser blade, ie one with less teeth per inch and a deeper gullet so the saw dust can escape. It works for me.- Wood Borer
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16th August 2008, 07:46 PM #8Member
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less tpi
Thanks woodborer I am using a 35mm 3tpi blade at the moment Is this not ok? Hazard
how do I join up the shavings?
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16th August 2008, 07:52 PM #9
for ripping i use a 1 1/4" x 1.1tpi blade and boy she rips.
i spray teh blade with vegie oil was told this by an old sawmiller they used to use it on there sawms when cutting resounous timber. works a treat to.
a spray can of it makes aplication esay no need to turn off the saw.
will try diesel and see how it compares. i dont think it will last as long.
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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16th August 2008, 08:15 PM #10Member
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saw blades
Weisyboy where do you buy your blade? Hazard
how do I join up the shavings?
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16th August 2008, 08:22 PM #11
peacock saws in brisbane.
http://www.peacocksaws.com.au/
www.carlweiss.com.au
Mobile Sawmilling & Logging Service
8" & 10" Lucas Mills, bobcat, 4wd tractor, 12 ton dozer, stihl saws.
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16th August 2008, 11:01 PM #12
Don't see why not Bruce - my main concern was what it might do to the tyres over time but I doubt I'll ever use enough to cause much trouble
I use a 25mm, 1.3tpi bimetal blade from Henry Bros in Sydney. Fantastic blades - the only thing that will work on stuff like Gidgee and Inland Rosewood and you can touch it up 6 or 8 times before you remove the good bits. First one I had ended up just cracking through fatigue I used it so long.
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17th August 2008, 12:03 AM #13Skwair2rownd
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Grey 2 know.
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17th August 2008, 11:22 AM #14Member
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sawblades
Thanks Vern I will have to order from Henrys as my local suppliers do not have much of a range. I was trying to rip some partially seasoned Brush Box and stalled my Woodfast 500 New blades only cut about 2 metres of jarrah before. Kindest regards Bruce (Hazard)
how do I join up the shavings?
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