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6th August 2011, 01:49 PM #1
Old Ezycut about to be re-birthed
I've got a quiet spell coming up so decided to turn my attention to getting my old bandsaw up and running.
I bought this thing for a ridiculously cheap price many, many years ago. Can't remember how much but it was an impulse buy because I figured I couldn't go wrong.
Only ever used it to cut the teeth on featherboards for my TS.
And, to butcher a sheep or 3 when we were on our property. A right B%$#ch to clean up afterwards. Not recommended.
Anywho, I dug it out of the storage shed today and snapped some before pics.
It appears to be all there. The odd wing nut missing.
I THINK the rubber on the wheels look in good order, but I don't really know what I'm looking for.
I spent literally 60 seconds giving one of the badges a bit of a rub with some emery paper on my finger, just to see how it cleaned up. Looks a treat. I'll do it properly later.
All the Bakelite knobs appear to be there and I'm assuming these will clean up with just soap and water.
I thought, before I start tearing it down I should post here just to see if anyone knows something I don't.
Is there anything in particular I should watch for?
I was thinking of having all the paint sandblasted. Is this a good/bad idea?
Basically, I'd just like to hear if anyone has any thoughts on the matter.
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6th August 2011 01:49 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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7th August 2011, 09:49 AM #2
It looks like it should clean up alright. They dont make them like that any more. hopefully parts wont be a problem. I would probably be looking at making a guard for the drive belt if it was mine. Health and safety standards have changed a lot since that baby was made.
Looking forward to seeing the "after" pics.
Doug
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7th August 2011, 04:12 PM #3
Really? Is this thing considered to be a reasonable quality?
I've always looked upon it as a handyman thing, a toy almost. But I've always liked it and it seems perfect for what I have in mind for it.
... hopefully parts wont be a problem.
I would probably be looking at making a guard for the drive belt if it was mine. Health and safety standards have changed a lot since that baby was made.
Looking forward to seeing the "after" pics.
Cheers
Jim
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7th August 2011, 05:11 PM #4
Jim,
Blades will be the least of your concern as they are made to order. Just make sure that you hold onto the old ones to make it a little easier. Perhaps drop off the old blade when you are getting your new one made up and ask them to measure it for you for next time.
I too look forward to a restoration in progress. Lots of photos!
StinkyNow proudly sponsored by Binford Tools. Be sure to check out the Binford 6100 - available now at any good tool retailer.
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7th August 2011, 05:15 PM #5
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8th August 2011, 03:18 PM #6
It looks like it would go as it is but a bit of a spruce up wont be out of place.
Blades and belts can be found without any real problem. It is a nice simple old style blade guide system so no real problem there. I made hardwood guide blocks for my old 14'' saw and they work fine. Ezycut no longer exist so no help there. The rubber on the wheel looks a bit flattened down to me but you may get by with it. Have to try and see. I think that Hare and Forbes may have rubber to fit if they have a similar sized wheel. The thing stretches a bit so should manage. Measure the wheel diameter before you look for the tyres. I have an Ezycut combination machine of the same vintage and it is very well made. All I have done is a new drive belt, bearings for the planer, a saw blade and a good scrub. I am happy to say they dont make them like that any more.
Good luck with the refurb and we would like some pics of the finished result.
Regards
John
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8th August 2011, 03:38 PM #7
Thank you for your input orraloon,
It does indeed work just as-is. I have used it without any drama. I suspect 90% of the refurb will be cosmetic, so its a good machine to start with.
I was working on something else today but just before I came in I had a much closer look at it, took the guards off etc so I could see. I put a known straight edge across both wheels and they are bang-on for true to each other. I grabbed the bottom wheel and could get NO movement out of the bearing whatsoever. The top wheel has the tiniest amount of movement. You can feel it, but certainly couldn't measure it.
There appears to be a lot of potential adjustment for that wheel. Both to move it straight up and down and I would guess to adjust its angle. The slight movement I can feel may well be inside that mechanism rather than the bearing itself.
I'm amazed at the bottom wheel. It looks like in normal operation, the drive belt pulls the shaft down, while the blade pulls it up at the opposite end. If there's a bronze bush in there, which I suspect there is, that action is just begging to wear it out. Yet no movement. If there is a bronze bush in there, I may be able to drive it out and put it back in upside down.
I'm impressed with what I'm seeing so far, although I haven't gone that deeply into it yet. It feels good not to see a single piece of plastic anywhere. I've always looked on Ezycut stuff as the GMC of its day. I may have to revise that thinking.
BTW, the guides on this machine have a small roller bearing perpendicular to the blade behind it, and what appears to be adjustable short pieces of brass dowel for the sideways movement. I thought that seemed to be a very simple and effective means of doing the job.
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8th August 2011, 10:02 PM #8
I think you will find they are ball bearings. Well my combination machine is anyway. I changed out the ones in the jounter when they started to squeal. The ones in the table saw are still going strong. The local bearing place had to order them in as they are imperial but the cost was next to bu&&er all. Whatever the bearing is I would leave it be as long as it runs smooth. When this was made nobody would have even tried to put out anything as crappy as GMC. The motor on my machine looks same as yours. Is it 1 HP?
I have had an old H&F 14'' bandsaw I had to tweek up and by trial and error got to know how a bandsaw works. There are lots of others on here with lots more bandsaw knowhow also so if you need any help then its here.
I reckon your old machine deserves a new life.
A couple of picks of my Ezycut beastie
Regards
John
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9th August 2011, 10:07 PM #9
I'll let you know John. Would explain the lack of any slop.
Well my combination machine is anyway.
The motor on my machine looks same as yours. Is it 1 HP?
Oh yeah...1400 and some odd RPM. 1440? 1420? Hard to see the last two numbers.
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10th August 2011, 03:19 PM #10
I found 1/2 hp on my old H&F bandsaw to be ok for about 3 to 4'' thick timber but it was a struggle cutting out 6'' thick turning blanks. You need a good sharp blade also. Motors are not hard to find however if you want to upgrade later.
Regards
John
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10th August 2011, 09:50 PM #11
If you've found 1/2 HP is good for up to 4" then I think I'll be good. I honestly can't see myself ever needing more, and if there is ever a one off need to do something bigger, I'm confident of being able to baby a blade through it. I've asked saws to do more than they're designed to do in the past from time to time. The secret is, as you pointed out....a sharp blade and patience. Let the saw do the work. Blades are a whole different topic. When the time comes to buy a new blade, I'll come back here and ask some advice.
But, having said all that, if per-chance I happen upon a 1HP jobby, I might just grab it.
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11th August 2011, 04:30 PM #12
Hi John,
Bronze bushes, both top and bottom. But the most accurate measuring device I own shows no difference in measurements top to bottom, or side to side.
So I think I'll leave them alone.
Did discover an oil point for the bottom one, so I can keep it oiled in future.
Cheers
Jim
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12th August 2011, 09:46 AM #13SENIOR MEMBER
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There is a screw on the hub of the top pulley. That should be the oil point for the axle. Only takes a small amount of oil and has to be done often. I found I needed to use a thicker oil that would hang in there. I think I used chain/cutter bar oil. You will probably find that the cat alloy frame and caste iron table are more rigid and longer lasting than the modern varieties.
Ken
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12th August 2011, 11:56 AM #14
Thank you Ken, but there isn't one on mine. I managed to get some oil into it at each end by dripping in onto the shaft and spinning it, but no oil journal of any kind.
Do you have the same BS?
You seem to speak from experience.
BTW... when did metric start in Oz?
I was surprised to find all the nuts etc are metric size. I was rather expecting AF or Wentworth.
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12th August 2011, 12:59 PM #15
Scratch that! It was only the four bolts that hold the main casting to the table were metric. Someone must have changed them at some point. All other nuts are AF.
The castings appear to be alloy, not iron.
Maybe that's where they saved a $ or 2.
And they're not finished very well. Another area where $'s counted I guess.
Wish I had a linishing belt.
If this is where the industrial grade tool differed from the Ezycut, I find it a very sensible compromise.
Doesn't diminish the tool one bit in performance.
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