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  1. #1
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    Nov 2020
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    Default Finding nails during milling

    Recovered some logs from the verge last week. Initially intended to split them for firewood, but thought we might try our hand at milling some of them. We checked for nails, found one and removed it, then passed the log through our relatively new bandsaw - only to locate another nail some 15mm or so below the surface of trunk. We heard the change in sound but didn't associated it with a nail until we saw a spark. The blade cut into the head of the nail half a millimetre or so. What's the protocol here - do i discard the blade or ought I try to resharpen it? (it's a 19mm standard blade that came with the saw)

    Do I just chalk this up to bad luck or is there some way to find nails this deep in the wood?

    TIA
    Brendan

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  3. #2
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    Nov 2018
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    Default

    I have one of these, which seems to find the deep nails too. Not sure whether it's worth the premium price compared to the cheap generics, but it only needs to save one decent blade to make it worthwhile.

    But I think you just have to accept you're going to miss the odd bit of metal if you insist on doing green hippie stuff like recycling/repurposing/re-using. Best to stick to coal.

  4. #3
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    Unless the blade is kinked or buckled noticeably, the blade is saveable.( is that even a word?) If the individual teeth are damged or bent, I’ve just ground them off with a dremel type tool before, an angle grinder would do too, with care. a couple of missing teeth doesn’t seem to make any difference to the performance of the band.

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
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    Oberon, NSW
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    When you inspect the blade, also look for stress cracks in the gullet or near the tip of the tooth.

    Cracks in the gullet are pretty much asking for 'brown pants' moments in the near future. Best to scrap the blade now before it snaps in the middle of a job.

    Cracks near the teeth aren't so bad, but the tooth will likely break off soonish. Not a major problem in itself - as said above, the occasional missing tooth doesn't matter that much when simply ripping - but you never really know what the tooth shrapnel will do in the cut.

    Quote Originally Posted by riverbuilder View Post
    Unless the blade is kinked or buckled noticeably, the blade is saveable.( is that even a word?)
    Salvageable.
    I may be weird, but I'm saving up to become eccentric.

    - Andy Mc

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Nov 2020
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    NSW
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    Default

    Thanks for the responses. I'll check the gullets. If there are no cracks I'll have a go at resharpening.
    The machine takes a 2820mm blade. Do I need a blade exactly this length or is a bit bigger/smaller ok? I assume a little difference can be accounted for in the tensioning?

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Metal detection sensitivity is related to things like depth, orientation and size of the metal pieces.
    Most security type detectors are designed to pick up relatively large pieces of metal so may not be as effective.

    I have one of these Carbatec Metal Detector | Carbatec
    This detector uses the same circuit as many security type detectors but seems to be more sensitive in that it can detect a staple under about 5mm of wood, and I have detected 2" nails down to about 50 mm.

    The main problem is remembering to bring the detector to the worksite and then to use it. The biggest thing I hit with a chainsaw was a large coach bolt but it was made of soft steel and the chain cut right through it with hardly loss of cutting edge. The hardest metal was a Tek screw which broke 3 cutters (easy enough to replace and refile to size). The thing that caused me considerable pain was a 10 mm braided harden steel rope/wire wrapped around and buried in a log. After cutting through it twice I stopped milling that log - couldn't even use it for firewood.

    If you are lucky you might see a black stain in a cut piece indicating that something nasty is buried further down.

    Urban trees are notorious for "stuff" buried in the wood. Metal is relatively easier to deal with compared to things like glass, concrete, ceramics (electrical transmission line insulator) and rocks.

  8. #7
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    Nov 2020
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    NSW
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    lol
    I think my nails were about 50mm, possibly a little longer.

    I have ordered two blades (carbon steel on the assumption that I'll hit something nasty before their service life is up).
    Both nails were on the same side of the log. I'm wondering whether I jettison the log or give the opposite side a go.

    Have also ordered a metal detector because it's clear visual inspection is not good enough.

    So when you locate an embedded nail with the detector what next? Do you cross cut around it?

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stopblock View Post
    So when you locate an embedded nail with the detector what next? Do you cross cut around it?
    Depends on the wood, if it's an urban tree and something I already have some of I usually leave it alone.
    If it's something worth while I might chop around it with a 1.5" Chisel, follow the black stain. Or like you say, cut from the other side and watch for the stain again.
    If its a big stain I might plunge cut with the chainsaw around the stain.

    The biggest problems is with non-metallic stuff iin crotches etc where people have thrown stuff and the tree has grown around it.

  10. #9
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    Nov 2020
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    Ironically, my first pass in my first attempt at milling found the only nail (extracted by chisel):
    20210312_182209.jpg

    Final product:

    20210314_144801.jpg

    Note to self: don't press upload files more than once.

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