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  1. 3rd August 2005, 01:04 AM #1
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    zenwood
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    Question Fore/aft adjustment of table angle (Sherwood BAS-350)?

    Just bought a BAS-350, which seems to be a popular model on the forum, and have worked out how to get the table flat, and perpendicular to the blade in the left/right direction. (See pic 1 and http://www.woodworkforums.ubeaut.com...5&postcount=60)

    My question is how to adjust the table to be perpendicular to the blade in the for/aft direction. The mount for the table seems to have no machanism for adjustment, nor does the manual give it a mention. I could try to put washers/shims between the chassis and the mount but this would be a bit of a rigmarole, taking the table off, adding shims, putting table back on, checking, doing again, etc...

    Do people do this? If so how? I would like it perpendicular to facilitate cutting tenons down to the shoulder on both the upper and lower surfaces.

    The pics show the saw and the mount arrangement.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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  3. 3rd August 2005, 01:54 AM #2
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    How is the blade sitting on the wheels, does the blade sit in the same area on each wheel? Judging by pic #2 the blade is towards the rear of the lower wheel and towards the front of the upper wheel.
    If thats not the case adjusting the table mount with washers/shims will be the only way that I can see.
    ....................................................................
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  4. 3rd August 2005, 10:20 AM #3
    Greolt
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    Zenwood

    Check the wheels are coplaner, if not then adjust.
    Then back the blade guides off and adjust top wheel tracking if necessary till blade is perpendicular.
    Readjust blade guides and Bobs your uncle

    Greolt
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  5. 3rd August 2005, 11:16 PM #4
    BobR
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    Unless I am missing the point of your question, it does not matter if the table is at right angles to the blade in the fore/aft position. To get a right angle (or any other angle) cut, the table angle to the left or right of the blade is all that matters. Hope I have not missunderstood the question.
    Bob

    "If a man is after money, he's money mad; if he keeps it, he's a capitalist; if he spends it, he's a playboy; if he doesn't get it, he's a never-do-well; if he doesn't try to get it, he lacks ambition. If he gets it without working for it; he's a parasite; and if he accumulates it after a life time of hard work, people call him a fool who never got anything out of life."
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  6. 4th August 2005, 01:30 AM #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobR
    ... it does not matter if the table is at right angles to the blade in the fore/aft position.
    Bob,

    Here is an example. Suppose you want to cut the cheeks of a tenon down to the shoulder line (see pic). Unless the blade and table are at 90° in the fore/aft direction the blade will undercut or overcut the shoulder line. Does this make sense?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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  7. 4th August 2005, 11:52 AM #6
    Greolt
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    Zenwood makes perfect sense to me.

    Did you check the alignment and therefore the tracking of your wheels?

    Greolt
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  8. 4th August 2005, 12:04 PM #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Greolt
    Did you check the alignment and therefore the tracking of your wheels?
    Greolt:

    Had a quick look last night. I checked the position of the blade on each wheel: roughly central. Tried changing the position of the blade on the top wheel (from fore to aft) and only made things worse.

    I can't see how I'd check the alignment of the wheels to each other. Even if I removed the table, the wheels are recessed inside their housings. I'd have to make a special straight-edge with a bend bit in the middle to check the wheels' alignment to each other. I might have to resort to shimming the table, or maybe using an mdf panel shimmed up with wedges?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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  9. 4th August 2005, 02:00 PM #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood

    Had a quick look last night.

    I can't see how I'd check the alignment of the wheels to each other. I'd have to make a special straight-edge with a bend bit in the middle to check the wheels' alignment to each other.
    How about this

    Growing old is much better than the alternative!
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  10. 4th August 2005, 02:09 PM #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprog
    How about this
    Good idea sprog.

    Does this actually need checking? Is there a way of making the wheels co-planar, if they're not? If so, why not just do that adjustment until the blade is at 90 degrees fore/aft, and not specifically checking the wheel alignment? If the blade is tracking in the middle of the wheels, and the blade is 90 degrees fore/aft, then no further adjustment is required.

    Does this make sense? Am I wrong?

    It looks to me like the lower wheel has to go aft (towards the back of the blade). If there is a way to do this, why not use blade fore/aft perpendicularity as the measure rather than wheel alignment?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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  11. 4th August 2005, 02:20 PM #10
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    Does this adjust the fore/aft position of the lower wheel?
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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  12. 4th August 2005, 04:18 PM #11
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    ZenWood save yourself a headache & call your supplier they should be able to sort your prob in 5mins

    REgards Lou
    Just Do The Best You Can With What You HAve At The Time
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  13. 4th August 2005, 06:57 PM #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    Does this adjust the fore/aft position of the lower wheel?
    Yes that is the lowers wheel adjustment. I read my manaul and it looks like a pain in the A-S to adjust. It holds the axle ( and wheel) from rocking left, right , up and down, if I loosen all the screws I can push the alex in, or out too. If your bottom whell is a little farher out it might fix it. BUT CALL TECH SUPORT if your manaul does not cover this adjustment.
    JunkBoy999
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  14. 4th August 2005, 07:40 PM #13
    Greolt
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    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    Does this adjust the fore/aft position of the lower wheel?
    Yes that is the adjuster for the bottom wheel. It is not meant to adjust the wheel in or out (or for and aft) but
    the angle of the wheel in relation to the top one, to get them to what is refered to as "coplaner"

    In a new machine this is likely to be pretty good already, but worth checking because of your original problem.

    When you said "Tried changing the position of the blade on the top wheel (from fore to aft) and only made things worse."
    did you back off the blade guides while doing this?
    This would otherwise have prevented the blade coming into line while doing the adjustment.

    Greolt

    Edit: What Sprog said is the way to use a straight edge to check alignment.
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  15. 5th August 2005, 01:31 PM #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by zenwood
    Good idea sprog.

    Does this actually need checking? Is there a way of making the wheels co-planar, if they're not?
    To save retyping have a look here

    http://home.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild/i-bndsaw.htm

    Growing old is much better than the alternative!
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  16. 5th August 2005, 01:36 PM #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprog
    have a look here
    http://home.vicnet.net.au/~pwguild/i-bndsaw.htm
    Cheers Sprog. Looks like an excellent site.
    Those are my principles, and if you don't like them . . . well, I have others.
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