Thread: Hafco BP 355 question

If you look at the pics of that saw on the H&F website you will see one of the tensioner indicator.

It shows blade tension settings for blades up to one inch wide.

It could be a cock up with picture allocation but 25mm does sound about right - after all it has a 2HP motor and is a moderately strong build so should be able to deliver the tension needed.

I can't see why you can't put a bigger blade on the saw, but I own one, and have never really seen the need to put a bigger blade on. A 16 with 3tpi will do all that the saw is capable of. I actually found that 16/4tpi is the best running blade for anything that I have done. I resaw the max capacity on occasion. I get my blades from Henry bros.

The best mod you can do is put a 90mm hole in the baffle that blocks the dust port, as it just inadequate in the original form.

Originally Posted by specialist

I can't see why you can't put a bigger blade on the saw, but I own one, and have never really seen the need to put a bigger blade on. A 16 with 3tpi will do all that the saw is capable of. I actually found that 16/4tpi is the best running blade for anything that I have done. I resaw the max capacity on occasion. I get my blades from Henry bros.

The best mod you can do is put a 90mm hole in the baffle that blocks the dust port, as it just inadequate in the original form.

I would remove the baffle completely AND cut a hole in the door so that enough air can flow through the vent.
So what if a few chips build up in the cabinet, what is really important is getting maximum airflow to rid of the fine dust that otherwise gets all over the shed etc.

The hole does not have to be a butchers hack - it can be something like this.
Ideally the air entry should be opposite the air exit.

This machine has two air/dust ports, the one for the cabinet is not the obvious one shown on the RHS of the photo, but low down on the other side of the cabinet.

i lashed out today and bought one these bp-355 bandsaws today since they r on special at H&F. it comes with a 16mm blade (or 5/8th's), blade looks like a piece of garbage though. the manual says it can take 6-25mm blades. im sure I could get a 3mm blade to work if i replace the upper rear roller.

I didn't know what you guys were talking about when speaking of the baffle infront of the dust port...and then i went looking for the dust port looking from the front only to find a bloody steel sheet is welded infront of the intake about 6mm away...numnutz!!!!! its like making a door to enter a house, and then bricking it up. that steel isnt reinforcing the botttom corner of the cabinet is it? I can just rip it out with a claw hammer breaking the welds??

20150626_185322 copy.jpg

Thanks to those who have replied
I think I will get a bimetal blade to replace the one that comes with it ; either 3 or 4 tpi
and if necessary a 6 or 8 mm one to cut tight curves

and look at cutting that baffle

and I have ordered it from H&F on the sale price ; Brisbane branch have nil stock 3 to 4 weeks away

What are they like to assemble out of the box ?
How did you handle the weight ?

i picked mine up yesterday arvo, forklifted straight into the back of the ute. comes in 2 boxes. a small box which weighs about 20-25kg which has the base assembly in it. and then a bigger box which has the main machine, this box is about...80-100kg.

I built the base assembly, its nothing special. just bolts together. I also added some lockable castor wheels to it at this time because i will need to move it around the garage. i used these from bunnies
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ambassado...astor_p3940117

I used an engine crane to lift the main machine onto the base assembly. two tuff people could lift it, it was slightly too heavy for me lift ~400mm above the ground by myself.

before I put the table on, i setup the tracking, thrust bearings and side bearings. its easier to do this without the table getting in the way.

put the rip fence on (without being particular about its placement), ripped a board. no drift, no wobbles, no worrys at all. its quite a decent little unit. I just need to do something about that baffle, trying to rip it off with a claw hammer didnt work. the welds have decent penetration, i was hoping for useless surface welds. ah well...ill grind it off.

G'day
Another question ; Can anyone tell me the footprint size of the BP355 , both at floor level ( standard enclosed base which is supplied with it ) and at table level including frame please.

I am tight for space and wish to create room for it prior to getting it

base = 630x450
table height = 920x600.

Originally Posted by Kuffy

base = 630x450
table height = 920x600.

Thanks that helps but that 920 at table height is a challenge for me

Originally Posted by Kuffy

base = 630x450
table height = 920x600.

Hey Kuffy,
I too have in the past 24 hrs ordered one of these from H&F. I need to know the height of the machine from floor to topmost point as I'm intending to store mine in a purpose built recess in some shelving I have in the shed, rolling it out when required.

Geoff P

1810mm high as the machine comes.

mine is 1910mm (the extra 100mm is from the castor wheels I put mine on to be able to shove it around the garage easily).

Thanks Kuffy,
They're big sods aren't they.

Originally Posted by Geoff P

Thanks Kuffy,
They're big sods aren't they.

heh. I look at it and think its a tiny little baby bandsaw. But im used to woodworking machinery having workshop footprints well in excess of 12sq/m not including the space needed to work in and around the machine. though looking at it as baby bandsaw and then getting it to rip 8inch boards straight down the gutz just makes it feel more impressive.

Originally Posted by Kuffy

i picked mine up yesterday arvo, forklifted straight into the back of the ute. comes in 2 boxes. a small box which weighs about 20-25kg which has the base assembly in it. and then a bigger box which has the main machine, this box is about...80-100kg.

I built the base assembly, its nothing special. just bolts together. I also added some lockable castor wheels to it at this time because i will need to move it around the garage. i used these from bunnies
http://www.bunnings.com.au/ambassado...astor_p3940117

I used an engine crane to lift the main machine onto the base assembly. two tuff people could lift it, it was slightly too heavy for me lift ~400mm above the ground by myself.

before I put the table on, i setup the tracking, thrust bearings and side bearings. its easier to do this without the table getting in the way.

put the rip fence on (without being particular about its placement), ripped a board. no drift, no wobbles, no worrys at all. its quite a decent little unit. I just need to do something about that baffle, trying to rip it off with a claw hammer didnt work. the welds have decent penetration, i was hoping for useless surface welds. ah well...ill grind it off.

And of course we followed the Snodgrass method!!!