Thread: my bandsaw doesn't want to play anymore

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

I've a delta 14" bandsaw - not too old and mainly used on weekends.
I was cutting up some blanks, turned it off, got next piece of wood, turned it back on, nothing

After turning off the dusty and trying the bandsaw again I could hear a buzz/whine. The shaft seems to turn freely, but not under it's own steam.

Any ideas

If there is a buzz/whine and the motor isn't spinning, it could be the capacitor, if indeed it is a capacitor type motor. Usually there is "bulge" on the outside of the motor, that is the capacitor. On some motors the capacitor is inside the housing though.

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

I've a delta 14" bandsaw - not too old and mainly used on weekends.
I was cutting up some blanks, turned it off, got next piece of wood, turned it back on, nothing

After turning off the dusty and trying the bandsaw again I could hear a buzz/whine. The shaft seems to turn freely, but not under it's own steam.

Any ideas

i had a similar issue with mine and it was a capacitor .... here where therea re no tool people close, i have found an auto electrician who is good with that sort of thing

regards david

Yep. The start cap.

When the same thing happens with a lathe, you can "start" the lathe by giving the blank a spin by hand in the right direction. Replacing the cap is still a priority, but at least the lathe is usable in the meantime.

For obvious safety reasons I won't suggest this method is safe with a BS... not by trying to give the blade a starting flick, anyway! If your upper & lower wheels are solids (ie. less risk of getting fingers trapped) then you may be able to open one of the guards and give that wheel a spin in the right direction.

Thanks all

Originally Posted by Big Shed

If there is a buzz/whine and the motor isn't spinning, it could be the capacitor, if indeed it is a capacitor type motor. Usually there is "bulge" on the outside of the motor, that is the capacitor. On some motors the capacitor is inside the housing though.

Has a bulge - how does one change a capacitor? Find a sparky?
tried spinning the wheels and then hitting the go button but didn't work, bvgger!

Originally Posted by Sawdust Maker

Has a bulge - how does one change a capacitor? Find a sparky?

It's a simple matter, just two wires. Buying a replacement of the right rating is the harder task! Getting a sparky to do it is always the safer option.

tried spinning the wheels and then hitting the go button but didn't work, bvgger!

Nar, ya gotta do it with power applied. Glad you didn't try.

(I really shouldn't have mentioned it... Who knows who'll read this thread in the future and think "I gotta try that!")

The last two times I had a capacitor on a motor go west I have sourced one of appropriate specs from a refrigeration / airconditioning spares mob near me. Pretty simple task, but I still get the sparky to do it for me after I get the part. It is important to get one to the correct specs. Sometimes Jaycar can help.

Thanks everybody

I had the same problem, got a house electrican to fit the new capacitor, the cost of which was meet by the bs vendor, under warranty.

Just watch the boot from the cap.
They can hold a charge like a battery... only bigger than 9 volts.
Additionally, the winding coils of an electric motor can also hold a charge.
When replacing the cap, even though the power WILL be off, you can still discharge residual charge from either of these sources.

Usual out come, concussion.

Events leading upto...

Discharge cap / winding.
Jump and shyte yourself.
Bash head against closest solid structure.

Outcome - concussion

Check the value of the start capacitor its probably about 1 or 2 uF (Micro Farads) at 400V rating. Theres is a guy on Ebay sells them for under 20 dollars. Its usually just a couple of leads to get it out so its a dead easy job. Charge on the capacitor, answer is no or motor coil no. Switch the power off, pull the plug after 3 seconds and its all safe. Weekend hack I think got caught in some DC appliance like a TV and yes once bitten you dont forget. Now remember this is a start capacitor, it is not an electrolytic or other such thing, put one of those in any you will hear a rather large bang Other issue is leads, often these things are designed for an aplication so if you replace with a generic you have to fit leads which are soldered on. If you use solder DO NOT use bakers fluid or plumbers solder, it must be electrical solder 60/40 lead tin