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Thread: Hammer 4400n bandsaw owners
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20th December 2007, 09:53 AM #31zelk
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Thanks Harry72,
I'll soon post some photos of the workshop
( https://www.woodworkforums.com/showth...t=46103&page=4 ), as requested, once I wire up the bandsaw.
Zelk
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20th December 2007 09:53 AM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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30th December 2007, 12:42 AM #32
Congrats Zelk.
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11th June 2008, 09:54 PM #33SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi All,
Can anyone tell me if the fence on the 4400n is adjustable for blade drift?
Also can someone confirm if there really is a 3kw single phase option? The felder website only lists a 1.8Kw version.
Lastly is there anything else under 3K worth cosidering?
Thanks
Joez
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12th June 2008, 10:58 AM #34
According to Felder in NSW the fence is adjustable for blade drift and yes the motors on the single phase are 3KW. Current price now $2371.60. They have quite a few single phase machines in stock.
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14th November 2008, 02:48 PM #35SENIOR MEMBER
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Hi all, i finally got my n4400 yesterday.
I cant seem to figure out how to adjust the fence for blade drift. Am i missing something ??? or is there no adjustment?
Also would anyone know the blade length by any chance?
PS the saw is awesome. I cant believe how well it cuts even with just the factory blade. Everything was straight and square off the crate.
thanks
Joez
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14th November 2008, 04:10 PM #36
I ended up getting a sawstop so have to keep saving before I buy my 4400 but I would guess that it is either an adjustment in guide bar moving one attachment in or out or it is the screw just to the left of the ratchet clamp mechanism.
My advice that there was an adjustment mechanism came from Felder in Emu Plains.
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14th November 2008, 04:37 PM #37zelk
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17th November 2008, 01:31 PM #38
how much drift are we talking about??
Joe, how much drift are we talking about??
I've had my N4400 for just on 12 months. First thing I did was throw away the rubbish band supplied with it, and get some decent ones from Henry Bros. I have successfully ripped 2-3mm veneers about 2m long with negligible runout. I'd suggest checking
1. the quality of the blade, and 2 the tension you've set first, before anything else.
And, yes, from memory you can adjust the threaded bars that hold the fence guide bar at the front, should it be necessary.
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17th November 2008, 02:08 PM #39SENIOR MEMBER
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17th November 2008, 05:55 PM #40
There are two allen keyed bolts going through the casting that runs on the circular guide bar, into the fence. These need to be done up tight, as the washer will deform because of their position. If they aren't, the fence can move, particularly if you have a featherboard jammed up hard against the job.
My experience is the same as Timbernut's - no noticeable runout using a Henry bros. 1/2" 3TPI bimetal.
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