Thread: Hammer N4400 Problem

I too have just come across these postings. I'm a Chartered Electrical Engineer and member of the Institution of Engineering and Technology in UK and agree that there should be considerable caution in suggesting that AC has no polarity. We label the twin and earth as Live, Neutral and Earth, for a very good reason, and they should not be swapped ever, whatever the colour of the wires.
Depending on the type of supply to your dwelling and workshop, you may have much trouble if you swap the live and neutral at certain places on your circuits - possibly livening up your bare electrical electrical continuity bonded surfaces - but only until you blow the main incoming fuse.
I've done my own workshop supply according to the instantaneous power requirements, cable used, sub-panel requirements, earth leakage protection and required sockets, and tested the citcuits according to a plan before connecting to the main supply.
Unless you are competent to do this kind of work or do adequate research, it's not worth the risk of death or your workshop going up in flames. I don't find it scary, but I've had the education and training.
Now, woodworking is a more scary venture for me but I've just commissioned my new Hammer N4400 and it works like a dream, and tomorrow, the Hammer B3 gets rolled off the pallet and commissioned. A more involved job but I've added a dial indicator to the tool arsenal that is called up for the task second hand from Ebay and the Baty man personally delivered a bezel securing screw for it which was missing. Next week, the A3-26 jointer gets rolled off. I never thought redunndancy could be so exciting.

Hi,
I never did get find out from Dickiejim what the original problem was with the electric circuit.
Dickiejim, if you are still there after all the intense discussion, what was the cause of the problem?
Thanks

All these sparkys around!

He said the motor printed as 13 amp. This would be the running amperage, no?

On startup it could/would draw a lot more than that ... surely that's got to do with his shutdown problem?

You want to hear a *real* suicide cowboy way to look into it?
Take out the breaker unit and replace it with a bolt using 3-foot long pliers.
Turn on the bandsaw and give it 10 seconds to decide if it's gunna come up to speed or not.
Then remove the bolt and throw it into a lake .. !!

And remember ... never listen to an idiot. 'Cos we're out there ...

Paul McGee

A 15A configuration off a 20A circuit breaker ('C' curve) should be adequate. It could be fed from a 2.5mm twin and earth from your main supply panel's dedicated 30A, or so, circuit breaker. (Requirements may be different in the antipodes, though.) This is the usual size for a 13A domestic ring main in the UK. The cable is capable of sustaining a continuous 19A for some hours - certainly much longer that I run any individual machine in my workshop.
In the workshop, it would be good to have your incoming cable, the twin and earth noted above, go to a so called garage panel that comprises an MCB for lights, say 6A and one for power at 20A which feed both your 13A outlet sockets for hand-held electric tools AND your blue, 15A outlets for machines - provided, of course, your machines are not rated over the supply capability. See the data plates on each machine.
Note that electric braking is used in some machines, like the N4400 and the K3. Check it for correct wiring and operation if you have a wiring diagram available. Felder should be able to supply.