Thanks: 0
Likes: 0
Needs Pictures: 0
Picture(s) thanks: 0
Results 16 to 30 of 50
Thread: Hammer N4400 -About to commit
-
23rd May 2009, 03:37 PM #16
-
23rd May 2009 03:37 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
- Join Date
- Always
- Location
- Advertising world
- Age
- 2010
- Posts
- Many
-
26th May 2009, 10:13 AM #17
Got a 3phase 4hp one myself. Bought it, loved it, then got a 1in 3tpi from guess who (Henry Bros), and love it even more. It does all I've ever asked of it, and hasn't missed a beat.
Get one.
(and if you're going to upgrade the shed power, go 3phase if you have the chance). It cost me $1200 to run 16mm STI to the garage, but so what. Life's too short to live with underpowered tools.
-
1st June 2009, 02:42 PM #18GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 87
- Posts
- 1,327
If you are cutting veneer much or even resawing ,get the Henry Bros carbide tipped blade . I have got one in an 18" Jet which I bought when I could not afford the extra dollars to buy the Felder . It is a beautiful blade and not that expensive. $110
I've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
-
2nd June 2009, 09:39 AM #19
-
2nd June 2009, 10:34 AM #20GOLD MEMBER
- Join Date
- Sep 2004
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 87
- Posts
- 1,327
Alex. I just use it for resawing . It is 25mmx 1.3TPI . I have wondered about using a chainsaw sharpener to resharpen bandsaw blades. What did you use.
CheersI've just become an optimist . Iv'e made a 25 year plan -oopps I've had a few birthdays - better make that a 20 year plan
-
2nd June 2009, 07:48 PM #21
I use a chainsaw sharpener in a Dremel. Just touch up each tooth in the gullet and it will also sharpen the tip. However, wear eye protection! I had one suddenly become unbalanced, probably spinning too quickly. It flew over my shoulder about 3m. All I found was the metal piece, who knows where the stone went when it disintegrated.
-
10th June 2009, 07:08 PM #22New Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 3
adjust the N4400 fence for drift
I just purchased the N4400 and cannot work out how to adjust the fence for drift. I emailed Felder Melbourne a couple of times, however, I didn't get a reply on this point, just a copy of the pdf manual.
Does anybody know how to do this?
Andrew.
-
10th June 2009, 07:34 PM #23
There are two allen bolts that go through the cast iron bracket that runs on the round guide bar. These go up into a block that sits in a slot in the fence. Loosen these two bolts and adjust as necessary. You will need to tighten them pretty well, because the washers will bend (unless they've changed it). You need to bend them as far as they will go.
I just set the fence square to the front of the table, because if the blade is running correctly, there is no drift.
-
10th June 2009, 09:51 PM #24SENIOR MEMBER
- Join Date
- Jul 2003
- Location
- Melbourne
- Age
- 53
- Posts
- 856
-
10th June 2009, 11:13 PM #25New Member
- Join Date
- Nov 2005
- Location
- Melbourne
- Posts
- 3
I had a good look and couldn't see the allen bolts you were referring to. Is it possible that I have a different version of the fence than you?
I tried attaching a picture of mine (upside down for better visibility).
Andrew
-
11th June 2009, 10:11 AM #26
akaszubski, that black part you've showed in your pic - it clamps to a round metal bar running in front of the table. That bar is held off the table by a couple of lengths of threaded rod (or are they just bolts, I can't remember). these threaded rods, from memory are adjustable so that you can offset the main round bar if needed to account for drift.
You're not looking to adjust the aluminium fence, but rather the steel round bar it ultimately attaches to.
(note, I don't need to adjust mine for drift, it runs pretty true right now, but I'm sure I investigated how I would do it if needed, when I bought mine, and that's what I came up with).
-
11th June 2009, 02:17 PM #27
-
11th June 2009, 03:33 PM #28
Wouldn't the rod on the right of the picture be easier to adjust? (you can just see the nut against the table in the far right of the picture).
-
11th June 2009, 07:22 PM #29
I don't think so. Presumably, the bar is set parallel to the front of the table in the factory, so why change it. It's easier to slacken off the allen bolts, set the fence to the angle you want, and tighten them up. It looks like yours is different, Akaszubski.
It's pretty academic really, because with a good blade running on the crown of the wheels, it doesn't need any adjustment anyway.
-
11th June 2009, 07:32 PM #30
I am alsocurious about the adjustment. However to date I have not felt the need to modify the factory settings. After over 12 months of use everything runs spot on.
The only issue I have with the fence is that, as with other T-fences, it moves as you tighten it. I try and pull it against the runner before tightening, but it does not always work. Anyone offer a suggestion?
Regards from Perth
DerekVisit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.
Similar Threads
-
review of hammer N4400
By Zed in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 20Last Post: 16th October 2006, 07:43 PM -
Hammer N4400 BS - Q for Felder
By Zed in forum TABLE SAWS & COMBINATIONSReplies: 10Last Post: 26th September 2006, 11:15 AM -
Hammer N4400 Bandsaw
By eddie the eagle in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 0Last Post: 4th July 2006, 08:59 AM -
Hammer N4400 review
By AlexS in forum BANDSAWSReplies: 5Last Post: 13th June 2006, 10:50 PM