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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by GarethR View Post
    I'm somewhat surprised that the fence is breaking. Either it's a defect or the fence is undergoing undue stress.

    My original suggestion was to to use some epoxy and if it was me that's what I'd do first up.
    As mentioned, one claw broke off a while back, unfortunately I cannot find it now. It might have to be a fix using a different method. The two claws are the weakest points that require the greatest strength in the assembly.

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  3. #17
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    Mine broke in exactly the same position some time ago but unfortunately, Felder did not come to the party. Suggested I had overtightened the fence when setting - which I hadn't as far as I could remember.

    I had mine welded. I think it cost about $10. I've used it many, many time since with no issues.

    Very likely a design or casting fault

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dovetail View Post
    Mine broke in exactly the same position some time ago but unfortunately, Felder did not come to the party. Suggested I had overtightened the fence when setting - which I hadn't as far as I could remember.

    I had mine welded. I think it cost about $10. I've used it many, many time since with no issues.

    Very likely a design or casting fault
    I had the same response from Felder, they said that I may have dropped it. There are clearly a number of forumites who have had the same problem, it is unlikely that everyone had dropped theirs.

    In your case, did they weld entirely around the break or only a part?

    As I have lost one of the claws, I am working on a clamping method. If it works, I will post the details.

  5. #19
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    They welded entirely around the break then ground away the swarf in the hollow section so that it didn't foul the guide rail.

  6. #20
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  7. #21
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    Hi Zelk,


    I applaud your determination in making a 'different' clamping arrangement for your N4400 fence.
    I've come up with a different idea which I would likely employ should my fence ever break again.

    If this works, you won't need to fiddle with spacers and clamps every time you want to use your machine. I've just used roof/wall bracing material for demonstration purposes and a more robust material would be needed in an attempted repair. I should think something malleable like 3mm aluminium bar for instance. Or some mild steel if you can form it. The factory clamp tightening lever can really apply an enormous load on the clamp lugs which I don't believe is necessary and could account for SOME breakages.

    The first images shows (roughly) the idea side on. The material is attached to the outside of the clamp bracket which is quite thin and could be drilled easily IMO. A couple of small bolts will secure the new bracket.

    IMG_1518.jpg

    The second image shows the arrangement from below. Again just a rough demonstration -- the material would need to be formed more accurately.
    IMG_1519.jpg


    The third image demonstrates the 'strap' on the outside of the main bracket with an indication where one of two mounting bolts could be fitted.


    IMG_1522.jpg

    The lug that was welded can be seen in the first two shots. Looks a bit rough but works well enough.

    Cheers

    Brian

  8. #22
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    Hi Brian,
    is the formed metal strip designed to maintain a clamping force, ie, bracket to bar and would you still use the original locking handle?
    Zelk

  9. #23
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    Hi Zelk,

    Yes, if you use a metal of some strength and form it to fit around the bar, then I see no problem attaining sufficient clamping pressure. I would think two metal strips should be used - one on either side of the locking handle. You could still use the original locking handle but I'm of the opinion that by the very nature of its design, the leverage one can apply is tremendous and I suspect those folk who have broken lugs directly, may have done so by overtightening. Perhaps one could use a different locking system like a threaded knob or at least be aware of the force being applied.

    After fitting the metal strip/s, you may have to realign the fence to get it square but that's no big deal.

    Cheers

    Brian

  10. #24
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    Sounds like you would be creating a similar set up to the original one.

    The 'round bar to table' connection points ( as shown in my last picture ) are a nuisance as they can interfere with the 'fence bracket to round bar' clamping. The original fence bracket design was compromised for the sake of them, nevertheless, they could have been made stronger so that overtightening is never an issue.

  11. #25
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    Yep, very similar but I don't see why they wouldn't work as long as they are kept shy of those pesky connectors. Also, because you could make them broader, there will be more surface area to contact the round bar.

  12. #26
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    "Pesky" is a good description. With my prototype I can relocate the clamping so that the connectors do not interfere, regardless of where the fence is positioned on the table. It is always better to clamp either at the middle of the bracket, where the tightening screw use to be or to the left of it. If one clamps to the right of middle, then the end of the fence can, with some force, be pushed away from the blade and there would be need for some support behind the end of the fence using magnetic stops or some clamping as mentioned before. Overall, the prototype works efficiently. With favorable center of gravity, the front lip at the bracket supports the clamp and adjustment is quick.

  13. #27
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    One could buy a new Drift Master Fence. They are universal: https://www.gregmach.com/product/dri...-fence-system/

    If the metal you are trying to fix is non-magnetic, try brazing it first. Its something you can do yourself at home with a little torch (Supercheap, Bunnings, etc) and rod from a welding shop. Its not atomic-level strong, but it will certainly be stronger than the "metal"* they seem to be made of. Example: https://youtu.be/-oifC7fbQfY

    Its pretty easy, will be smooth and can be painted over with spray can.


    * pots, pans and cutlery round up day for the furnace perhaps?

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by woodPixel View Post
    One could buy a new Drift Master Fence. They are universal: https://www.gregmach.com/product/dri...-fence-system/

    If the metal you are trying to fix is non-magnetic, try brazing it first. Its something you can do yourself at home with a little torch (Supercheap, Bunnings, etc) and rod from a welding shop. Its not atomic-level strong, but it will certainly be stronger than the "metal"* they seem to be made of. Example: https://youtu.be/-oifC7fbQfY

    Its pretty easy, will be smooth and can be painted over with spray can.


    * pots, pans and cutlery round up day for the furnace perhaps?
    I like that fence, I wonder how much freeplay there is in the gearing.
    The drift adjustment has given me an idea. With my prototype, if I reintroduce the original screw for tightening, I could possibly use it to offset the fence alignment, thereby, adjusting for drift.
    Last edited by zelk; 24th March 2017 at 10:57 AM. Reason: spelling

  15. #29
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    Zelk, drift is fixed at the upper wheel, not the table: https://youtu.be/wGbZqWac0jU


    On the Drift Master, I have one. It works very much like an incra fence, but FAR less refined.

    I've written to Incra and suggested it as a product a couple of times, with suggestions, but one never hears back from them - ever, on anything, even once. I wish Incra were better at customer service.

    I reviewed the DMF fence somewhere here a long time ago. It is OK for the money, but not spectacular. It is certainly an easy thing to drop money onto to solve a problem.

    My thoughts would be:

    -- Making a simple one wouldn't be too hard, a DIY job something like these https://youtu.be/peEARS5rr1Y or https://youtu.be/4pudkvHFOfk
    -- The Drift Master Fence is universal for pretty much all bandsaws
    -- The DMF is flogged as a Laguna product, but it isnt. It is clearly fabricated elsewhere using vastly different quality controls (i.e. inferior to the Laguna)
    -- There are HEAPS of improvements that could be made to the Drift Master Fence. I am rather surprised (disappointed) that they haven't a new version yet.

    If I had a metal shop, Id make a really slick one without hesitation.

  16. #30
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    The DMF claims to be adjustable for drift, in a similar way to this Youtube clip https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZThUPOr_Ug
    Last edited by zelk; 24th March 2017 at 01:58 PM. Reason: edit

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