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  1. #31
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    Feb 2016
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    Yes, but its the wrong thing to do. Drift is fixed at the upper wheel.

    Adjusting for drift at the table is like giving your car a wheel alignment by taking of and moving the steering wheel. If *works* but its not how its done.

    After watching the snodgrass video enlightenment will occur.

    The DMF is just like the incra fence, it is fantastic for moving the fence in a very fine and controlled manner. Underneath the main body is a quick-move release as well as a lock-lever. These are good for when you have it just right.

    Capture (300x297).jpg

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  3. #32
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    May 2006
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    sydney
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    I do not disagree, I was merely pointing out that I could possibly modify my prototype to correct for drift like the DMF.

    I gather that one would have to change the correction for drift when changing blade and timber characteristics.

  4. #33
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
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    Australia
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    You can add me to the list of people with broken fences now as well. Last night I went to use the bandsaw, moved the fence to the back and I heard something drop to the floor. thought it was a bit of crap I left on the table. Went to lock in the fence and sure enough, its broken in the exact same place as the other photo's. Have contacted the local rep to see if there is an upgraded or better fence for it, because I am not going to replace it with the same faulty fence if I have to pay for it.

    Going to use the opportunity to upgrade to the ceramic guides as well.

  5. #34
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Toowoomba
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    144

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    Well, Pearo I must tell you that my welded repair of the fence clamp continues to hold despite a great deal of use.

    I'm disappointed that Felder Australia hasn't come to the party on this one. Surely we are not all over-tightening the clamp or dropping it onto a hard surface with any regularity?

  6. #35
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    Sep 2014
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    Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dovetail View Post
    Well, Pearo I must tell you that my welded repair of the fence clamp continues to hold despite a great deal of use.

    I'm disappointed that Felder Australia hasn't come to the party on this one. Surely we are not all over-tightening the clamp or dropping it onto a hard surface with any regularity?
    Mine certainly was not dropped. I just moved it on the saw table.

    I have not sat down and had a good look at it yet, but given I am learning fusion 360 right now it may be a good time to design a new one from steel if there is no alternatives. My father just bought another milling machine and is going to make it into a CNC, so maybe 6 months from now I can machine a new fence out of a block of solid steel!

  7. #36
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    I have had my N4400 for about 7 years now. For the first couple of years I was disappointed with the movement in the fence. It was sloppy when moving into position. It turned out that the wrap-around slide was machined with poor tolerance, and this section was loose. I was tempted - well, I would have liked to - drill and set in a couple of set screws, but on inspection, the metal was too fragile. It looked like cast aluminium or cast iron. I think the latter. Drilling it out would have been a recipe for fracture. In the end, Felder in Perth replaced the base. It has worked smoothly and accurately since.

    I am puzzled by the use of cast iron this design. It really is not appropriate, just too fragile with the thing "fingers" that create the support around the bar guide. I would love someone to offer an aftermarket replacement in aircraft aluminium, and tapped for set screws (if adjustment is ever needed).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

  8. #37
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    Sep 2014
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    Australia
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    Felder has come to the party for me ( thankfully, given the money I have spent on their machines). I don't think they believe me when I said I was just moving the fence on the table, but that's how it happened. Anyway, when the new one arrives, I will draw it up in fusion 360 then do a 3 print for a test fit. Once we get the old mans CNC Mill finished I will make one from steel or aluminium with much more meat on the fingers.

    If anyone has any suggestions on how to improve on it let me know. When I finish the design I'll publish it and the g-code somewhere so anyone can make one.

  9. #38
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    Sep 2014
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    Australia
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    New part turned up. Complete different casting, so Felder are obviously aware there was an issue. I'll post some pics up later tonight, but the fingers are a few mm thicker, and the casting is a lot more solid in the back.

    I'll get cracking on drawing it up. Might be a bit tricky to machine, but I'll cross that bridge when I come to it.

  10. #39
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    Sep 2014
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    Here is the pics
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #40
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    Jan 2004
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    Substantially thicker. I might have to check mine, just for interest sake.
    Pat
    Work is a necessary evil to be avoided. Mark Twain

  12. #41
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    Sep 2014
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    Australia
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    Righteo, so I pulled my finger up and have modelled the N4400 fence in Fusion 360. I'll embed the image at the bottom so I can leave it at high res.

    At this stage, its solid. Here is the dilema, if I make this from steel, its going to weight a lot. How much I am not sure, but without calculating it its pretty obvious that its going to be several kg. The original cast iron part is about 2.5kg, so I would guess a solid steel unit would be better than 5kg. Best part about that is you wont break it.

    Alternatively, its also possible to machine it out of aluminum. I cant see there being any strength issues if its kept solid, and it will be easier to machine. The downside is I reckon a piece of billet aluminium that side would set you back some where up near $100.

    I am undecided at this stage about which way to go. There is also another option and that is to remove some excess material from the guts of it. Decisions, decisions...

    Anyway, let me know what you guys think. I'll start a prototype going on the 3d printer to see if there is any issues with it so far. We are still building the CNC mill, so I cant see me actually turning out a steel/aluminium part this year. Still, its a start in the right direction.


  13. #42
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    Jul 2003
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    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pearo View Post
    Righteo, so I pulled my finger up and have modelled the N4400 fence in Fusion 360. I'll embed the image at the bottom so I can leave it at high res.

    At this stage, its solid. Here is the dilema, if I make this from steel, its going to weight a lot. How much I am not sure, but without calculating it its pretty obvious that its going to be several kg. The original cast iron part is about 2.5kg, so I would guess a solid steel unit would be better than 5kg. Best part about that is you wont break it.

    Alternatively, its also possible to machine it out of aluminum. I cant see there being any strength issues if its kept solid, and it will be easier to machine. The downside is I reckon a piece of billet aluminium that side would set you back some where up near $100.

    I am undecided at this stage about which way to go. There is also another option and that is to remove some excess material from the guts of it. Decisions, decisions...

    Anyway, let me know what you guys think. I'll start a prototype going on the 3d printer to see if there is any issues with it so far. We are still building the CNC mill, so I cant see me actually turning out a steel/aluminium part this year. Still, its a start in the right direction.

    That looks x10 better than the original!

    I wonder is its possible to mount the fence from its base rather than its side, if so you'd be able to lob the top 1/3 off your mount.

    Check out the Laguna rip fence, it probably makes more sense than I am https://www.lagunatools.ca/accessori...ence-assembly/

  14. #43
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    Jul 2012
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    perth
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    Hey Guys,

    Just a thought....why not make a set of doubler plates (with matching 'fingers') and then bolting them to each side of the mount, seeing that they are pretty flat. Plate aluminium (3-4 mm thickness) should be plenty strong.

    Cheers
    Chris

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