Thread: How hard can it be?

Hi Dave
Please give some more information on the problems you are having. I tuned several band saws and there is a lot of tricks I can help you with, but I need to know exactly what the saw is doing.
Regards
Timber Theo

Not intended to embarrass you, and at the risk of suggesting the (almost) obvious, it sounds like you've tightened only the tension adjustment, but not the quick-release lever. Not all band saws have that feature, and it's usually best to relax the tension when the saw isn't in use, to avoid permanent stretching.

Another possibility is that the 105" blade supplied with the riser kit is slightly longer than that. Also, how does it behave with the original blade (assuming you still have it)? - with the riser kit removed, of course.

Assuming the manual has gone AWOL, you can download Specifications, Manual and Parts List here: G0555 The Ultimate 14" Bandsaw

Cheers,
Joe

Pine is also often a PITA to saw with anything like a flexible blade - the blade just wants to cut the soft rings.

Reading glasses on is a good idea. Get one of the general bandsaw books - probably the local library - and go thru the setup proceedures set by step. Align the wheels, set the guides etc.

As Joe Griener said, it is possible that the blade is a fraction too long - a difference of 1/2" or so in length between brands or models is not uncommon.

I was grasping at straws about the blade length, but I just noticed you got the kit and blade from Wood Slicer, not Grizzly. If the quick-release isn't the culprit, I'd measure the old and new blades, as well as the riser, to see if accumulated tolerances are enough to throw things off. I would expect the riser to have milled surfaces, and it's possible it's too short. I suppose you could add shims if necessary.

Cheers,
Joe

Dave, forgive me if I may be ignorant, but I am not sure of all the fact.If the tensioning mechanism is adjusted all the way and the blade is still not at the correct tension, then the blade is too long. Cant be anything else.
Warmest regards
Theo

I would return the bandsaw to origonal state (sans riser kit) and use it this way with a new blade (if the old one is no longer sharp). You do not say, but I assume this is a 14" model. The Grizzley is essentially the same as Carba-tec in Australia - they use the same Chinese/Taiwanese machines. The manuals are online.

The thing about riser kits (having had one) is that the machines do not necessarily work well with them - they still have the (underpowered motor) and same (cheap) bearings, etc). 14" machines tend to be less well specified that the larger, more expensive models. My 14" was a 3/4 hp. I upgraded it to a 1 1/2 hp. This helped significantly, but in the end I upgraded the machine. There are good 14" machines around but they are either expensive or pre-1960.

A good blade can make a big difference. The Wood Slicer comes with a big reputation. Equally important is the tension you can put on the blade (although the WS is, I think, one that works with less tension than most?). Cranking down the tension depends on the length of the blade being correct (others here have questioned yours), and the structural strength of the frame and wheels (this should be OK on the G, but you never know - why did the PO sell it?). Are the wheels co-planar? That will effect the way the blade runs - it it runs off centre, then your Cool Blocks will not be effective in supporting the blade.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I appreciate all the input. I'm gonna take some pictures as soon as I get a chance. I know one thing I haven't done is check the alignment of the wheels.

This picture pretty accurately illustrates the problem I'm having.



These cuts were taken with 3/4" plywood laid flat on the table. The cut is always drifting to the left. Something's pulling it over there when I cut. I've tried the top wheel aligned in slightly different positions, tried the dollar bill trick with the guides, played with the top and bottom guides, having them almost tense on the blade and having them very far away from the blade. I've tried with a fence and without a fence. I've even tried aiming the guide blocks to push the blade to the right. The blade always drifts to the left. Here's the real issue...

Even when I jam the board powerfully against the face, so it absolutely will not pull off, the blade still drifts to the left, to the point that the motor starts to struggle and the blade wants to seize. Of course, I never let it get that far, for safety reasons.

Thanks for your patience.

Dave
Looking at the picture I think your saw is fine. Thighten the blade until the blade feels stiff. Very little sideways movement when pushing it with your finger softly. Not more than 2 to 3 mm. Start the machine. Listen to it. If it is noisy adjust the tension until it is quite. Adjust the fence to be paralel to the blade. Push a piece of plywood into it allowing it to drift. Pull the plywood out and measure the drift angle. Now adjust the fence to compensate for the drift angle. Your saw should cut fine.

I have a two horse power 16" machine. The above procedure works fine. When I re-saw, I actually use an edge fence. It is a sharp edged block of wood attached to the actual fence. The board rides against the sharp edge, and the angle to the blade can be changed as you saw. The fence is only to ensure that the board is square to the table and alligned with the blade. I watch the blade against a pencil line and compensate for the drift angle as I cut. It take some practice but once you get the hang of it, you will be amazed at the results.

Have fun.

Thank you, Theo. Really cranked it down today, and while it helped, it didn't completely fix the problem. It's still pulling a little to the left. I ordered Duginske's book today. I probably should have done that anyway.

I think the bandsaw is the most used by me. I have seen a few videos on bandsaw tune ups as sometimes it can be a little hard to get something across in just words.

It looks like drift could be the issue and here is a video from the wood whisperer that might help.

Bandsaw Setup, Tuneup, and Blade Recommendations | The Wood Whisperer

Just another possibility to eliminate... Have you tried it with a known, good blade? Which is not the one you're currently using?

One freshly back from a resharpener would be a good choice. A brand-new one, not so good, as 'newness' most definitely does not mean it's set right.

'Cos if the set on one side is off, or one side is blunted (eg. it brushed a nail in the wood) then it'll constantly want to keep drifting to one side; usually to the opposite side. ie. if the LH teeth are blunt, it'll normally drift rightwards.

If a good blade is used and it runs true for a while before mysteriously starting to do the same thing, then you really need to check where the blade sits on the upper and lower tyres, as well as the guide adjustments. The guides should be well clear of the teeth, so that the gullets are exposed. Especially roller guides or metal guide blocks! Even sacrificial guide blocks are best kept away from the teeth if possible, although for the smaller blades this can't be avoided.

It also never hurts just to double-check that the fitted blade has clearance: on one BS I used, there was an angled bit of the case which held a brush over the wheel to remove sawdust. This had been knocked and was bent enough that the blade had actually started cutting thru it!

Something would be either screwing up the set or taking the edge off the teeth.

Thanks guys. I'm convinced it's time to take a step back and read. SCD, that's a good thought about the blade. I might try that too.