Thread: HARE and FORBES BANDSAW- help cutting curves ,re sawing ,cut's unstraight help!!

1 the guides need to be replaced if they are worn,
2 how are the lower guides??
3 your blades sound fine , less teeth for ripping(re-sawing), more for cross cutting
4 have you set the saw and blade tracking, and blade tension???
5 Some pictures posted of the saw will help especially with guides etc..

Check out Alex SNodgrass on U-Tube for how to set up the Bandsaw , his video is excellent, if the saw is no set up and correctly adjusted then it will not cut worth a dam.

Blade width will affect the radius of the cut, as the radius gets smaller the blade must be narrower, this stops the back edge of the blade fouling in the cut.

This will give you a start point.

Jeff
vk4

Hermit had the same trouble with a BP-305 in this thread, along with a bowed table. (How's your's?)
Setting up as per the Alex Snodgrass method helped with rough cuts in this case.
https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/table-bowed-new-h-f-bp-305-among-other-things-152827/

here's some pics guys



homemade guide blocks at the bottom to replace the steel one

Sam, the first thing I noticed in your pics is that the entire upper guide assembly needs to be adjusted back until the guides are just behind the gullets of the blade. As it is now, the guides are coming into contact with the sides of the teeth.

Closeup.jpg Upper Guide Positions.JPG

The 6TPI 1/2" blade should be fine.

Originally Posted by Humphrey9999

Sam, the first thing I noticed in your pics is that the entire upper guide assembly needs to be adjusted back until the guides are just behind the gullets of the blade. As it is now, the guides are coming into contact with the sides of the teeth.

Closeup.jpg Upper Guide Positions.JPG

The 6TPI 1/2" blade should be fine.

Hi humphrey ajusted them as you said ,and still running the 3/8th's blade 6tpi was able to make some alright cuts ,realy think that the plastic guides helped too.thanks for all you help everybody that commented ,here cut #3

Garageman, it may pay to check your thrust bearing is close to but not touching the blade. The photo was not quite clear but it looked to be a bit too far away from the back of the blade.

Further to what Kidbee said, try to get the thrust bearings about the thickness of a playing card from the rear of the blade, and the (side) guides about the thickness of a sheet of writing paper from the sides of the blade. ie. Almost but not quite touching. (They'll contact the blade during cutting.)

In the last pic in post 4 (blade through upper guide, front on) the blade seems to be cranked to the right as it decends, suggesting that the lower guides are to the right of the upper ones. This will contribute to the out of tuned state of the saw, and make accurate cutting virtually impossible.

But it might be just an illusion with the camera. Also there appears to be a slight gap between the guide holder fram and the knurled lock nuts on the guide adjusters, but might be another illusion.

Originally Posted by malb

In the last pic in post 4 (blade through upper guide, front on) the blade seems to be cranked to the right as it decends, suggesting that the lower guides are to the right of the upper ones. This will contribute to the out of tuned state of the saw, and make accurate cutting virtually impossible.

But it might be just an illusion with the camera. Also there appears to be a slight gap between the guide holder fram and the knurled lock nuts on the guide adjusters, but might be another illusion.

Looks like you're right about the upper guides not being square to the blade, Mal.
As long as the lower guides aren't actually touching the blade, though, they won't hold the blade out of line, but on this model there is an adjustment to pivot the guides until they're square with the blade. It's one of the allen-head grub screws and rods at the rear of the upper guide assembly. Mine was way off when I got it.

I also removed the strange little (safety) bracket around the blade near the lower guides - it does nothing useful but gets in the way of the view when adjusting the lower guides, making it much harder. (The bracket I'm talking about is prominent in the first pic in post #4.) Tilting the table half-way helps, too, if you don't want to take it right off.

Sam, did you try setting the blade to run with the bottom of the gullets in the centre of the top wheel, as suggested by Alex Snodgrass? That cleaned up the cut on mine a lot, but sometimes out of the blue when I least expect it, (and usually when I'm cutting really close to the line), I still get a rough cut.

The BP-305 is very temperamental, so you need to be right on top of it in terms of guide and thrust bearing adjustment to avoid those rough, wave-shaped cuts.

Originally Posted by garageman

2 when riping timber should i use a blade that has alot of teeth or fewer

Depending on the size of the timber you’re cutting. Always remember the three tooth rule.

Hi everybody so yesterday i went back over everything and adjusted the upper guides etc .you know i don't come of this site much ,but i will now everybody was so help full and had great advice ,the saw rips pretty nicley , just wish a could find a nice fine toothed thin blade for it.

sam

I notice that this saw seems to have the euro style blade guides just like my Basato 4. Not very impressed with these myself, but none of the guide upgrades (coolblocks, etc.) seem to fit this style of machine.

Has anyone found an aftermarket guide upgrade that can be fitted to a machine with these euro guides??? About the only thing I've come across was some ceramic discs to replace the steel versions, but not sure if these would help much (or even fit a specific machine...).

Cheers

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

I notice that this saw seems to have the euro style blade guides just like my Basato 4. Not very impressed with these myself, but none of the guide upgrades (coolblocks, etc.) seem to fit this style of machine.

Has anyone found an aftermarket guide upgrade that can be fitted to a machine with these euro guides??? About the only thing I've come across was some ceramic discs to replace the steel versions, but not sure if these would help much (or even fit a specific machine...).

Cheers

Found this site selling euro style band saw machines: http://utilitybandsaw.com/trajan-210-european-style-band-saw.cfm.
And they have a link tab on the lower left side of their site referring to replacement pars. Maybe they could give some help.

Originally Posted by Mr Brush

I notice that this saw seems to have the euro style blade guides just like my Basato 4. Not very impressed with these myself, but none of the guide upgrades (coolblocks, etc.) seem to fit this style of machine.

Has anyone found an aftermarket guide upgrade that can be fitted to a machine with these euro guides??? About the only thing I've come across was some ceramic discs to replace the steel versions, but not sure if these would help much (or even fit a specific machine...).

Cheers

maybe you could cut some small round discs from some plastic chopping board-{poly resin made } if they can withstand sharp knives then why not? i made some to replace my metal guide blocks on the bottom of mine just playing with ideas

sam