Thread: Improving a Ryobi 8 Inch Benchtop Bandsaw HBS7600 (Delta 28-185) and Similar

Improving a Ryobi 8 Inch Benchtop Bandsaw HBS7600 (Delta 28-185) and Similar

Years ago, I received one of these as a Christmas present, and found like so many other people, that it had some shortcomings, but it was great for small projects, and being so small, it was so easy to pick up and store.
Then, soon after, the “manufacturer” ceased product support!

I use it mainly for MDF jigs and other small stuff, but I have cut quite a few tenons for projects, and even 1.5 mm aluminium (not recommended as the metal chips and dust get embedded into the wheel tyres and elsewhere).

After I received this bandsaw, I decided to improve it to overcome what I saw as the main problem; the blade is very thin (0.4mm) and the saw suffers from blade wander probably because of blade distortion and bending as it cuts. The blade cannot be tightened too much before breakage.
So, some of the following is quite worthwhile, some is cosmetic or of slight improvement. You be the judge for yours. I have included some support data.

Types and Names
My bandsaw is a Ryobi HBS7600 190mm (7 and 5/8inch, but called 8 inch in some literature) unit bought in Brisbane about 1998 for about $200 at a new store called Bunnings, and was in the Australian Ryobi catalog until ca2000? I have an original handbook; see attachments.
It was also sold by Carbatec in Australia as a Delta 8 inch bandsaw, and was in their 1998 catalog as a Delta DE-28-185.
This economy hobby type bandsaw appears to have been produced in China under a few physical variants, and badged differently around the world. It was still available in the UK until recently albeit with a different front cover. I don’t know if anyone is still selling the saw as new.
Ryobi HBS7600 (AUS), Ryobi BS901 (USA), Ryobi 190, Delta 28-185 (AUS and USA), Delta 28-180? (USA variant), Delta BS6A (USA), Draper BS190 (UK), and I have seen a totally unbadged unit in a tool shop in Clontarf Brisbane. I think I have those numbers correct, but it can be difficult to tell from drawings, so beware of type numbers and variants.
It can be confusing with types, as Ryobi and others marketed (and still sell) a 9 inch or 230 mm version, the HBS9000 and variants. There is also a tiny Ryobi bandsaw available.

Spares
Spares for the 8 inch bandsaw are a problem, particularly tyres. Ryobi discontinued support in about 2002? Delta USA (part of Porter Cable) still has some parts available and has drawings on their website, as does Mike’s Tools USA. Delta USA is a very good data and spares resource.
Blades (0.4 mm thick 1425mm length, and in various widths and teeth) were still available from Carbatec in 2010 (may not be in the catalog though), various UK and USA suppliers, and can be made up by specialist saw blade companies. Web search for them.
Tyres can be a problem. I stocked up on tyres while still available.

My records that I rounded up my last groups of tyres from -
Carbatec in 2007 (part#DE28-185-55) as spares for the Delta saw (probably now not available),
Lawson-HIS (UK) also in 2007 (part##01DRAS54068) as spares for a Draper BS190 saw (UK, and now, as per web, not stocked),
Mikes Tools USA (part #1345013) as spares for a Delta (USA) in Nov 2007. Mike’s Tools had a delay in supply, but eventually came through.
Lawson HIS in 2007 even had the table plastic inserts (part#01DRAS54155) as spares.
Some tyres supposedly for the 8 inch saw can look as if they are too small, but most can be stretched to fit with a lot of persuasion and after soaking in hot soapy water. Some tyres are not exactly the correct width (but may still work OK), so check and specify this in any order.
Also, try searching for urethane tyres made up by Sulphur Grove Tool on Ebay (2010). Ebay search for “bandsaw tire” (note spelling difference tyre (UK) = tire (USA). This looks financially attractive, and you will get urethane tyres. This seller will make up almost any tyre required.

Suggested Refurbishment and Improvements.
(Based on my old notes from 2003 to 2007).
Before doing anything
Take a lot of photos of your unit from all angles. Have a parts drawing available for correct assembly later.
Mark the outer side of each wheel (probably have balance drillings in this side as per photo).
Spin the wheels by hand to “settle” the blade, and then note the position of a blade on each wheel tyre, and note the position in the centre of the table hole. Loosen off the guides if required.
Measure and record the distance of the rim edge of the top and bottom of each wheel from the casing (ie how far out from the casing, in the vertical line of the wheel centres).
Mark four 90 deg points on the bottom driven wheel, one point being in line with the shaft key (remove wheel holding screw to view), and measure distance of four points on the wheel rim edge from the casing, to check the motor mounting to the casing, and to obtain a reference to return to if anything is changed in the motor mounting area.
Make an MDF wheel alignment gauge and measure the original alignment of the wheels in the vertical sense, as per photos. The gauge alignment edge must be straight before cutting the middle cutout. My gauge was made from 10mm MDF board and is 575mm long, 135mm wide, with a cutout 182mm long 20mm deep, with the cutout centered 290mm from one end.
Clean out the whole unit. Remove the blade.
Spin the top wheel to check bearings and replace if necessary. Mine are stock “6200” 2RS type bearings.
Remove the top wheel and put aside.
Replace tyres if required, but ONLY if you have replacements available. Clean and “dress” the bare rims with ScotchBrite. Don’t use adhesive unless you absolutely have to.

Arrange for a licensed person to check the wiring on the switch, the earth points, and motor, for any problems. Check that the main earth point (near the switch on mine) is electrically sound. Mine had paint on the casing under the earth terminal making a dubious connection, which was corrected.
Remove the bottom wheel, and then the motor, noting the position of any possible shims or alignment washers. Use a wheel puller if required, but with extreme care and gentle use. The wheels have five spokes making use of a puller slightly difficult.
I discarded some flimsy shake-proof washers used with the motor mount screws, and replaced with flat washers.

I checked the motor bearings, (replace if necessary using 2RS types only). My motor was a capacitor start capacitor run type with a 500VAC 6 mfd motor start capacitor. Jaycar has some small motor start replacement types which should fit if required. My bandsaw had casting “dags” on and near both casing and motor mounting bosses which I cleaned up by hand with a large drill, a file and some abrasive paper. This is mostly cosmetic, but satisfying work.
I cleaned up the poor machining on the motor shaft at the driving end with a very small file and alox cloth strip, and wiped the shaft with an oily rag, then clean wipe off.
I checked the fit of motor to casing, and I also checked that the motor aligned well with the casing with shaft at 90 deg in two planes. Use thin shims or washers on the bosses to get a good fit, and the correct distance from the centre of the wheel rim (centre of tyre) to the casing. Adding shims or washers can affect the blade to wheel positioning, so some trial and error may be required to optimize the motor mounting. I needed no shims or washers, but I experimented with spacing washers at one time to more centralize the blade on wheel aspects; very time consuming. The relative position of the motor, in the axis of the shaft, and consequently the bottom wheel, affects all subsequent adjustment of the bandsaw. You need plenty of time to experiment here.
I replaced the washer under the bottom wheel to shaft holding screw with a larger diameter.
My top wheel outer rim is approx 42 mm from the rear of the casing, after blade tracking checks.
My bottom wheel outer rim is approx 43 mm from the rear of the casing, in the vertical and horizontal sense.


Top Wheel Mount Assembly
I have modified my assembly to have an extra piece of 2mm thick aluminium sheet screwed to the rear of the wheel mount block as per photo. This locates the mount block better in the two cast vertical guides on the rear of the saw casing. It is cut to suit the cast guide spacing. Mine is 50 x 28 mm.

I have replaced the original plastic washer (it collapsed very early) under the guide screw in the sliding wheel mount. The guide screw has been replaced with a long pan head screw M6x40, and filed down washer to suit, and which has a (new) locking nut and flat washer attached at the rear of the saw.
The slide has been tapped to hold three brass M6x14 slotted adjustment “screws” each with a clamp nut, so as to improve the sliding action of the wheel mount block when the top blade tension adjuster is used. Each of these “screws” was made from M6x20 brass round head machine screws, and has its “sliding” end filed flat (I spun mine in a drill press onto a flat file) to obtain a smooth and flat end. All relevant surfaces on the block, guides, and casing rear relevant area were smoothed with files and alox paper etc to ensure best possible sliding action. There is no need for any lubrication; this will only attract dust and create a problem later.
This new arrangement takes quite a bit of fiddly adjustment to get it all correctly working. See photo.
This new arrangement of the sliding mount block takes quite some tweaking to get it working correctly during the final overall saw adjustment. It looks better, but offers only marginal improvement over the original.
The original “rough design” actually works remarkably well in practice.


Blade Guides and Assemblies
I have replaced the original iron/steel blade “pin” guides with 5 mm brass rod (old Comweld Tobin Bronze brazing rod actually), drilling out the holes slightly to suit. Remarkably, these guides almost never wear out.
I replaced both blade guide thrust ball bearings. My original bearings were quite wonky (technical term) after only a small amount of work, highlighting their “quality”. Ensure use of quality 2RS sealed bearings here. I had trouble getting a 2RS in the small bottom guide bearing size; I used a 2Z shielded type instead (as was the original).
My top guide bearing is a “625” type (IDxODxThickness=5x16x5 mm).
My bottom guide bearing is a “623” type (IDxODxThickness=3x10x4 mm).

I have modified the bottom bearing assembly so that the bearing is centered more correctly on the blade (added a small spacing washer on LHS), and so that the bearing outer does not rub on the plastic spacers. I tapered the diameter of the plastic spacers for a few mm either side of the bearing. I also added a thin steel crinkle washer (RHS in photo) so as to slightly compress the plastic spacers onto the bearing inner and to stop it turning on the bearing spindle pin. If you do this mod, you should do it after you possibly do the mod to raise the lower guide assembly, as the topology of the bottom guide arrangement may change, including the position of the running blade on the bearing. See photo.

I have raised the bottom bearing guide assembly as far as is possible (30mm), so that the blade is “guided” closer to the work. Of all the modifications that I have done, this is the one most worthwhile. I made up a new mount from pieces of scrap 1 inch by 1/4 inch mild steel bar, larger piece 57 mm long, the smaller 30 mm long, and some thin washers. This suited my casing, but other casings may require different size “extenders”. The original Allen mounting set screws are still used but in newly tapped holes. My prototype is still in use! See photo.
The modification to raise the bottom blade support is worthwhile, but quite a bit of work. It is reversible, in that it easily can be restored to original.


Table Adjustment Stop Set Screw
I have added a CSK head M5x50 locking screw near the table adjustment screw, so as to lock the table at 90 deg to the blade, after correct adjustment. This is very worthwhile doing, as otherwise the table can “rock” unless the rear table adjust handle is very tight. This was my first mod, long before all others. See photo.


Casing Front Cover Catches
I have added two magnetic catches to my front cover as the original (exasperating!) expanding rubber units failed. The originals are now just pull handles. The magnets are 15 mm dia. rare earth magnets, and hold the cover quite well. See photo.


Blade Brush
I now use a bathroom nail brush, sawn in half, as a blade cleaner. See photo.


Bandsaw Base
I have added a base of 12 mm MDF with attached rubber feet, to reduce bandsaw sliding and make it quieter. I also drilled a hole in the base on the RHS which takes a through drop bolt and mates up with a hole in my bench, to anchor the bandsaw when in use.


Operating Hints
Adjust the bandsaw as per the manuals and various available books. This is a big and separate subject, but you must get the blade running OK and centrally on the wheel tyres before adjusting the guide pins and bearings.
Do not use any lubricants inside the casing area, (except an oily rag wipe of the motor shaft at overhaul time. It will normally be covered by the bottom wheel boss in practice).
Use as wide a blade as you can, as a larger width blade can be tightened a smidgin more than the smaller blades, with better overall performance (less blade wander).
Use correct blade tension.
Ensure correct running of blades on wheels and through guides.
Adjust the blade top guide height for each job, so as to just clear the work, and to more fully guide the thin blades. This reduces blade wander.
Use as slow a feed as is practical, to reduce blade wander.
Release the blade tension after bandsaw use, to ease up the blade pressure on the tyres.
Before installing a new blade, use a small abrasive stone to finish and polish the blade weld area flush with the rest of the blade. Do not assume that the manufacturer has done this well. This will reduce guide wear and noise.
As I am continually loosening and tightening the Allen screws, I keep an old Xcelite handle with correct size Allen “bit” handy; much easier than a normal bent key. Similarly, you could use a dedicated hex bit and bit holder.

Jigs Galore
I have quite a few jigs. See photo.
Attach a piece of wood to the fixed fence so as to stop fence “rocking”, and extend its size. I have two, one short the other 600 mm long, each attached with 1/4 inch carriage bolts and wing-nuts.
Attach a piece of wood (eg 30x20 mm) to the sliding mitre guide, also to extend its working length.
Make the table larger by using a piece of 10mm MDF etc bolted to the aluminium table (cannot use mitre guide though). Not used much; as some benefits outweighed by more blade wander.
I screwed a length of 10x20 aluminium angle 1.6 mm thick (made from sheet) to the table RHS, so as to support a plywood table extension for longer work. Very useful.


Remaining Problem
My table (die-cast, not iron) is 1mm out of flat, across the table, between the LHS and RHS, with the unevenness centered on the slot. It probably is from settling of the casting after the table had been surface ground. I have thought of fixing this, as it is a pain in some jobs. As the table is die-cast, it is not so easy to fix, as it will not “bend” (I tried). I may cut the table in half along the slot centre, then, attach steel joiner bars at front and rear to reassemble it flat. This is a non-recoverable job, and I never had the spare time. Maybe one day. Maybe someone has an idea as to an easier fix. The cost of a table surface grind is not worthwhile.


Finally
For woodwork, I wouldn’t buy one of these bandsaws new or secondhand, or any bandsaw in this size up to 10 inch, as a slightly bigger bandsaw will be markedly better. If you want a small bandsaw, have a look at a 10 inch unit with a cast iron table, or similar.
But if you already have one, I hope these notes may help.

Data (in next post, when I learn how to post them!)
Ryobi HBS7600 User Manual
Ryobi Catalogue Entry (ca2000) for Bench Bandsaws and Accessories
Delta Bandsaw 28-185 User Manual
Delta Bandsaw 28-185 Parts and Diagram
Draper BS190 Parts List and Diagram
Draper BS190 User Manual