Thread: Log sled for my BS

Well done! Look forward to the end results when made

The idea is that the distance between the holes in the wall should be a little less than the length of the screw, that way you will be covered for any length.

Love the idea. I might do something like that myself. You have me thinking now.

John

Good wrk rusel

Something for newbies to watch out for is making the first cut on sleds like this.
If the log is not held VERY firmly there is a chance that the log will roll and damage or break the blade.

The ideal first cut is through the middle of a log but that requires a slightly difference sled.

If the first cut is made on the side of the log then an additional removable clamping mechanism that holds the top of the log like this will help prevent roll.



Once this cut has been made then that flat face can be used as the base and the chances of log roll are much reduced.

The other thing to consider is for added security, rather than flat ended gripping mechanisms, use pointed gripping mechanisms that bite firmly into the wood

This is the gripping mechanism I set up for a log sawing rig for a table saw
As well as the two red angle iron arms clamping the log via the all thread rod, the black bolts have pointy ends which bite deeply into the wood.
Using two pointed end bolts prevents the log rolling
Full thread here - https://www.woodworkforums.com/f44/resaw-rig-table-pt-1-a-48534

This sled also allows for a safer first cut to be made through the middle of the log.

Yes BobL what you say is right, re the rolling log, one reason for this jig. The fixed end has a row of teeth that dig in and the screw end has a heavily grooved foot that also grips well. I was first thinking of just a point on the screw but was worried that it might act like a log splitter, it is done up tight into the end grain remember. I can also put screws through the wall into the top side of the log to steady a log that refuses to be rock solid.

If you are wanting to get square timber from your log, you first cut one side off the log then put that face down on the sled do your second cut and the rest can be done with the fence now that you have two square sides.

Originally Posted by rusel

Yes BobL what you say is right, re the rolling log, one reason for this jig. The fixed end has a row of teeth that dig in and the screw end has a heavily grooved foot that also grips well. I was first thinking of just a point on the screw but was worried that it might act like a log splitter, it is done up tight into the end grain remember. I can also put screws through the wall into the top side of the log to steady a log that refuses to be rock solid..

Sorry I didn't see the teeth - good point about the splitting especially if the wood is dry.
What I did to avoid that was drill some slightly undersize holes in the end grain for the point ends to grip.
I cut quite a few small logs with my sled and didn't have any spits.

If you are wanting to get square timber from your log, you first cut one side off the log then put that face down on the sled do your second cut and the rest can be done with the fence now that you have two square sides.

Yeah that sort of what I said although maybe not that clearly.

Here's one where I have cut a parallel piece out of the middle of the log, note the spacer.

Hey Rusel, great work, if you get a spare minute can you please do a close up of the sled ends - teeth etc, l need to make something similiar for some smaller blackwood logs, l've had the little bleeders jam and bend the blade - scares the S&^t out of you.

Stevo

Not enough!!
"l've had the little bleeders jam and bend the blade - scares the S&^t out of you." .....You are so right with that statement....Especially the last bit

Photo of teeth attached

Thanks Rusel, for adding the extra shots, the sled will definitely help.

Not enough!!
You seen mine now I want to see yours......

Rusel - l bet you say that to all the ****, give me a couple of weeks - better make that christmas, the way things are snow balling around here!