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Thread: LS Barker 27BSC

  1. #16
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    Thanks Vann, When I so the pic's were the wrong way up I went into editing to see if there was a rotate button, but I couldn't see one, so can you please tell me how you managed to get the pic's the right way up? Cheers Nigel

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    ...can you please tell me how you managed to get the pic's the right way up?
    I copied your photos to iPhoto (on my iMac) and rotated them there. Then exported and reposted them.

    HTH.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  4. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vann View Post
    I copied your photos to iPhoto (on my iMac) and rotated them there. Then exported and reposted them.

    HTH.

    Cheers, Vann.
    Thanks for your explanation, so on your PC the pic's were the right way up after you rotated them and then you just simply uploaded them and they stayed the same way up on this Forum as you see them on your PC. This is not happening for me on my PC the pic's are the right way up, but when I upload to the Forum it flips them over and there is nothing that I can see that allows me to edit the rotation to correct this issue, so not sure why this is happening or how to correct it.

  5. #19
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    Paint removal top door.jpg Removing rust from table.jpg
    Removing paint and rust front doors and table

  6. #20
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    Front Top.jpgPainted doors.jpg
    Got the doors & table pained & fitted, thought I would share a before & after pic

  7. #21
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    If you crop your photo slightly, this will remove the Exif data that rotates the images and they should then upload as you see them on your PC.
    Cheers

    DJ


    ADMIN

  8. #22
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    Nice one Nigel - I have 4 saws lined up ready for restoration I might sell a couple to make room if you know anyone chasing a big 32" old school C-frame saw?

  9. #23
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    Default Rotated.

    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    Got the doors & table pained & fitted, thought I would share a before & after pic
    Here you go, right way up.

    Front top.jpg

    painted doors.jpg

    Cheers, vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  10. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Charlie_6ft View Post
    Nice one Nigel - I have 4 saws lined up ready for restoration I might sell a couple to make room if you know anyone chasing a big 32" old school C-frame saw?
    Hi Charlie, Thanks I am hoping to get some power to the motor this weekend, I will hard wire it just to see if it fires up before looking at the switch gear, I don't know anyone but I can ask around which manufacturer is the saw and do you have any pic's Cheers Nigel

  11. #25
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    Thanks Vann, Not only are you able to get the pic's the right way up, but they are bigger than my originals. Cheers Nigel

  12. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    ...Not only are you able to get the pic's the right way up, but they are bigger than my originals.
    Magic fingers .

    Cheers, Vann.
    Gatherer of rusty planes tools...
    Proud member of the Wadkin Blockhead Club .

  13. #27
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    I managed to wire the motor direct (not through a switch) and get it spinning in the right direction first time, which I was a bit concerned about because of the C&H variable speed unit I didn't know if it would like being run in reverse. The C&H works great and can reduce the RPM down to just a crawl, however the max RPM is still much slower than if the motor was directly fitted to the machine. I believe this Bandsaw was originally setup for cutting metal (there are metal bits imbedded into the tyres) and therefore I will have to check the max RPM I am getting out of the machine, hopefully it will be around 900 which should be OK for a 27" wheel machine.

  14. #28
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    Default Switch Gear

    I did get the original switch with the machine (it does not work) but it had been fitted with a more modern switch, which had been face mounted to the machine and just didn't look right, so I am going to try and use the face plate of the old switch and mount a more modern contacted behind it, thus being able to keep the switch in its original position on the machine.

    I have posted some pic's of the old switch where I have removed the old paint and repainted it, it's new dark green colour.
    Switch gear 1.jpgSwitch gear 2.jpgSwitch gear 3.jpgSwitch paint removed.jpgSwitch painted.jpg

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Camelot View Post
    I did get the original switch with the machine (it does not work) but it had been fitted with a more modern switch, which had been face mounted to the machine and just didn't look right, so I am going to try and use the face plate of the old switch and mount a more modern contacted behind it, thus being able to keep the switch in its original position on the machine.

    I have posted some pic's of the old switch where I have removed the old paint and repainted it, it's new dark green colour.
    Hey Nigel,

    Was great to see your shop over the weekend and get to see some of the fantastic old machinery you have.

    I have an idea to sort out your switch mechanism without having to bolt a new motor starter to the machine and ruining its look.

    As mentioned I have a VSD (you call it a VFD) which I am hoping will fit in the cavity that housed the original motor starter.

    IMG_4943.JPG

    It only ever got used to commission a water pump, but the installation got rejected by Unity Water because it was non standard, so it is practically new.

    More importantly, check out the spacing between the manual start and stop buttons.

    IMG_4944.JPG

    I am hoping we can just mount this drive at an appropriate depth in the cavity such that the original buttons will 'push' the manual start and stop buttons on the drive.

    IMG_4938.JPG

    If it works, you can use the VSD to adjust the bandsaw speed to whatever you want (to suit wood or metal) and set and forget. Then just use the start and stop buttons like you usually would.

    The drive is roughly 200mm high x 70mm wide x 160 deep.

    Let me know if you want to give it a go?

    Cheers Peter

  16. #30
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    Hi Peter,

    It was good to meet you and your family over the weekend.

    If that VSD will fit in the space, then that would be a great solution/idea of how to make use of the old LS Barker on/off switch, I will measure the space and let you know what we have to play with.

    Does the VSD have both Single & 3 phase input or is it just Single in and 3 phase out, but obviously variable? I ask because I'm not sure of the AMP requirement for a Single phase VSD, I think from memory the motor is 3HP.

    Cheers Nigel

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