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  1. #16
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    Flyingduck, I think gregoryq has said it all regarding the upper guide mechanism and he was the right person to answer your question because he has a Meber and all the pictures! (Thanks gregoryq.) Obviously, from what gregoryq says, the design is not a problem, but I guess when it comes to choosing between several quality bandsaws, it was one, albeit little, feature that made me look elsewhere. Another example of minor differences between the high end saws would be the fact that the Agazzanni (sorry about the spelling) Rapids only have a 20 degree tilt on the table. This is of little concern to me as I have (almost) never tilted the table. But I do like having the potential feature... Regards, Luckyduck

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  3. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyDuck
    " Another example of minor differences between the high end saws would be the fact that the Agazzanni (sorry about the spelling) Rapids only have a 20 degree tilt on the table. This is of little concern to me as I have (almost) never tilted the table. But I do like having the potential feature... Regards, Luckyduck
    Oooops! I forgot to mention that. I haven't yet tilted my table either, and forgot all about that feature. I wonder if ever will use it. Some saws are better than others in that regard-mine needs a biggish socket on a ratchet wrench to loosen the trunnion attach bolts in order to adjust. Other saws have handles for rapid adjustment. You still need to mess with the throat insert anyway when tilting the table.

    Hmmmm. Ok, that's another area where there are differences between the makes. What's Felder's number?

    Greg

  4. #18
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    felder nsw is 0247351700.

    cheers
    Zed

  5. #19
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    From memory I think the FB540 is the same as you describe: it requires a fairly large socket to loosen and tighten the trunnion. Ironically, the much cheaper HAMMER bandsaw has a handier quick adjustment. I wonder if one of those "kip" levers could be installed to make adjustment easier on the bigger saws?

    Another point of interest between the HAMMER and the FELDER bandsaws. The HAMMER has a "leveling" pin inserted in the blade split (what else do you call it?) on the cast iron table, whereas the FELDER does not. Does the Meber have the pin? Is the pin necessary anyway? Regards, Luckyduck

  6. #20
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    The Kipp levers come in a variety of sizes, but I'm not sure that I'd want to be exerting that much torque on one. My trunnion is fixed with a 12 mm bolt, looks like a 19mm head. I want to explore running a dust collection duct through the center of my trunnion. The current dust collection chute is situated so far away from the blade that I'd need a tornado to make it work effectively.

    Kipp is a German firm-they make all of the knobs and wheels and do-dads found on the European machinery that we see. Their stuff is addictive; they are overkill, but they make all other catalogue jig hardware look goofy in comparison.

    As far as those pins go, I don't recall seeing them on any heavy saw. I just had a look at the ribs under my table and they are pretty beefy, plus the trunnion bolts up to the table on both sides of the split.

    Having said that, a mate has a Centauro 600 that has a warped table, and it too lacks that pin. (I remember reading that the pin is the most quickly discarded item in most shops.)

    Greg

  7. #21
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    Gregoryq,

    A question about dust extraction. I notice that the FB540 has only one dust port down in the bottom left hand corner (from the front of the saw), of the lower machine cabinet. Surely it would have been better to have one in the more traditional position immediately adjacent to the lower blade guide? I am very interested in your comment about positioning a dust exhaust pipe through the trunnion. Is your current extraction inadequate and what are you proposing to do? Thanks, Luckyduck

  8. #22
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    One more question (gregoryq): I was rereading your posts to this thread and want to pursue your LED bike light. Please tell me more about this mod! How did you install it? Does it give you enough light? Love the idea...

  9. #23
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    I am about to go off the air for a day or so, only have time for a brief reply:

    The dust port is really nicely made. It's so far from the action that it might as well not even be there. If you think of a vacuum inlet, you know that the suction diminishes exponentially with distance. In a bid to correct this I taped beer cartons (hmmmmmm....beer!) all over the inlet, to try to funnel the airflow past the blade. Improved, but only slightly.

    I want to try to form a duct that will go through the trunnion, right up to and surrounding the blade. It will connect to the hose on the motor side of the saw, away from the operator and the work piece (and the foot brake). This should collect all the sawdust that rides the blade below the table. As it is now the bottom compartment fills quickly with dust.

    I have visited a shop with a later Meber, and they cut into the lower compartment from the rear, through both walls of the fabricated structure. Oxy torch. ugly. but it works very well.


    Ok...bike light. I bought this thing for $5.00 shipped on eBay. 600 hour life claimed on a pair of AA's. It is very bright on 6 LED's. They have brighter ones. It has an integral magnet, but I added another rare earth to really assure a good grip. It attaches to the blade side of my swing away guard.

    I think a modern saw could have one permanently mounted to the telescoping blade shroud. I think it a much better solution than one of those gooseneck lamps that cost me so many blisters over the years.

    I'll try for a photo essay on that subject in a few days. I'm still wondering why LED's aren't in more widespread use for lighting-great brightness, no heat, true colour. I've got one of those headlamps for a similar price-its great for task lighting-doing dovetails for example, or taking out the rubbish up my dark driveway.

    Hope this helps. with more practise I might be able to generate some truly epic posts...

    Greg

  10. #24
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    Hey, hey, I like your "short" replies! I see what you mean about your dust extraction idea. I will have to see what I can do with the FB540 when I get it. And I would love a picture of your LED light when you get time. I think it is a brilliant idea and will be following suit. Tah, Luckyduck.

    Flying, we kind of hijacked your post... sorry! Did you ever decide which bandsaw you were going to go with ...?

  11. #25
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    Man! I shoulda been in bed two hours ago...

    Here's some pics of the light on the swing-away guard. It's easy to access to switch on and off, and you can see it has a generous 8 mm or so clearance to the blade.:eek: If that blade ever touches the light, the $5.00 will be the least of my worries!

    Picture 3 is of the dust port, and the remains of a beer carton experiment still taped on. I found the Tasmanian beers cut the dust best of all. You can see that there is way too much open area to allow any airflow velocity at all in the vicinity of the blade.

    Greg

  12. #26
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    I had always thought I would try to get a dust extraction pipe somehow attached to the upper blade guide, to get any airborne dust on top of the workpiece. Perhaps your idea of getting it under the table is less cumbersome and more effective if executed properly?

    I wonder whether it would be better to get some sheet metal, and a four inch exhaust flange, and attempt to make a dust cowling immediately to the right of the lower blade guide (if standing in front of the bandsaw), with the dust extraction pipe oriented towards the back of saw. This will work similarly to your idea of putting the pipe through the trunnion, but may have the added advantage of fitting more snugly around the blade? Of course it is more trouble than your idea.

    What do you think about abandoning the dust exhaust ports which come with the bandsaws and putting a pipe immediately below (as discussed) AND immediately above the cutting action? Regards, Luckyduck

  13. #27
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    Greg, thanks for your replies. Lucky, rather you hijack this thread than the plane I have just been flying on all night between Hong Kong, Bangkok and Karachi.

    Greg, why did you want Fedler's number - having regrets about the Meber?

    Lucky, still havn't decided on a badsaw. I am still waiting to hear about the price for getting an Agazzini 700 to my door from Italy. So in the meantime still seriously condering the Meber 600/700 or the Felder 540/640. Also keeping my eyes open for second hand ones. Think you may have mentioned this to me before, but can you give me a PM with the deal you got on your FB 540 - total price, accessories etc.

    Understand what we are talking about with the exposed guide post now - thanks.

    All this reading about huge bandsaws is making my mouth water, and am looking forward to getting one soon.

  14. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingDuck
    Greg, thanks for your replies. Lucky, rather you hijack this thread than the plane I have just been flying on all night between Hong Kong, Bangkok and Karachi.

    Greg, why did you want Fedler's number - having regrets about the Meber?
    etc.

    Understand what we are talking about with the exposed guide post now - thanks.

    All this reading about huge bandsaws is making my mouth water, and am looking forward to getting one soon.
    Were you in back of that thing, or up front? Enjoying the charms of Karachi tonight?

    I mentioned Felder's number as a kind of tongue in cheek thing. I have to say that when I was shopping, I wad pretty much decided on an Agazanni Rapid from "For Wood", simply because it was going to be $1200 or so less than an FB540. That was 14 months or so ago, don't know what the respective prices would be now. That was purely a price choice, as I like Felder equipment just fine, and I would buy more of it given the need/etc etc. (See "amen, brother", above).

    Scour the auctions, and ebay. Big saws pop up every couple of months. I saw a nice Barker 900 go for that many dollars a few months back. I also saw a massive 48" saw go for $100.00 at auction. But it probably only had another couple good hundred years left in it

    Greg

  15. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by LuckyDuck
    I had always thought I would try to get a dust extraction pipe somehow attached to the upper blade guide, to get any airborne dust on top of the workpiece. Perhaps your idea of getting it under the table is less cumbersome and more effective if executed properly?


    What do you think about abandoning the dust exhaust ports which come with the bandsaws and putting a pipe immediately below (as discussed) AND immediately above the cutting action? Regards, Luckyduck
    Hi again...

    I think that if/when I make the port through the trunnion, I will fashion it so that a 4" hose attaches, then have it completely shroud the blade through a slot so that 4" or so of blade travel is through the duct. Done properly, I'm confident of getting some good air velocity in the region of the blade.

    I am amazed at the amount of sawdust that ends up on the table during resawing operations. Especially if cutting off a wany edge, and the blade skims through the edge of the plank. Dust everywhere.

    I like the idea of an upper duct, and have thought of hanging a piece of flex hose along the back of my (happily exposed ) blade guide post. I have been accused of too much machine modification in the past, so this may be more of the same.

    Failing a through the trunnion approach, a modification of the standard dust port might be better-rotating it 90 degrees so that the hose connection faces the motor side of the saw. The hose would run down below the motor to the left rear side of the saw, and then to the collector.

    Have a look at the old beast in this link, and see what talent and time and money can accomplish:
    http://www.owwm.com/PhotoIndex/detail.asp?id=331

    Greg

  16. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by gregoryq
    Were you in back of that thing, or up front? Enjoying the charms of Karachi tonight?
    Just being a FlyingDuck up the front. Luckily was only on the ground for an hour before returning to Bangkok.

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