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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
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    Perth
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    Default Mitre fence for Hammer N4400

    The N4400 does not come with a mitre fence. Actually I was not aware of this when I bought mine. It is an optional accessory.

    I like to use a mitre fence for short crosscuts in joinery, so I want get one.

    The local agent does not have a mitre fence in stock and he was not sure of the cost.

    Who has one and (1) what do you think of it (2) what is the width of the runner/track, (3) what did it cost, and (4) any recommendations on substitutes?

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Hi Derek,

    I work without one.

    From memory, they're not cheap.

    The slot in mine's 15mm wide, I just measured it. If you want to seriously consider an alternative, let me know and I'll run a vernier across it and also get depth - looked to be 5mm but that's a guess.

    Cheers,

    eddie


    Edit: Look here:

    http://woodworkforums.ubeaut.com.au/...ad.php?t=58859

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
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    Default

    Hi Eddie

    Thanks for that info. Yes, it would be a help for accurate dimensions of the slot (width and depth). That will give me a chance to make one up on the weekend (as my saw only arrives on Monday).

    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Hi Derek,

    15mm by 3.5mm.

    Situated on the RHS of the blade. Distance from the centreline of the blade to the LH edge of the slot is approx 93mm. ie: I'd guess that the original design was 100mm from the centreline of the blade to the centreline of the mitre guide slot.

    The thing'll arrive with a European plug - You'll need an electrician to wire it to a female plug so that you can run it off an extension cord. If you've got the 'lecco in to wire in a 15A plug, get him to buy/bring a heavy duty two core & earth cable as well, to make up a decent 15A extension lead.

    Cheers,

    eddie

  6. #5
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Canberra
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    63
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    1,291

    Default

    Never ever put a female plug/socket on an appliance of any type. This means you need a male plug to supply power which means live exposed pins. Very dangerous.

  7. #6
    Join Date
    May 2006
    Location
    sydney
    Posts
    694

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    Hi Derek,

    I got the impression from the distributors that the mitre fence is not substantial or worth it.

    Zelk

  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 1999
    Location
    Westleigh, Sydney
    Age
    77
    Posts
    9,550

    Default

    I've never bothered with a mitre fence on the bandsaw - you can probably do angle cuts just as well by marking the angle & cutting by hand.
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  9. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Posts
    686

    Default

    Typing without thinking, Mat/

    Change that to: "Make up a converter tail."

    The safe option. Need a male 15A plug connected to the Euro female. The female plugs onto the machine.

    I think this makes sense now - I'm tired, and the Warriors are up 6-zip, 14:43 seconds into the first half.

    Cheers,

    eddie

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    nsw
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    52
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    If you end up locating a decent substitute one, let me know (cause I have the same issue). I know some of the guys have said they work without one, but I have found various times when I certainly would have found it handy to have one. From what I recall when I bought my N4400, the general thought was that the Felder supplied one was nothing special and not worth the money (even though the saw itself is awesome!)

    I have been contemplating locating an alternative ever since, but haven't as yet.

  11. #10
    Join Date
    May 2003
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    Canberra
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    63
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    1,291

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    It wouldn't be too hard to modify a standard mitre jig. Just find a suitable sized bar from a steel supplier, perhaps it might need some milling and attach the mitre head.

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    10,826

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    Today I made a mitre fence. I used an old gauge head from a tablesaw, and for the steel runner I cannabalised a broken, cheap Chinese F-clamp. The bar was almost a perfect fit. A couple of swipes over the belt sander and it was ready for drilling and tapping holes.





    I also added a set of wheels as the bandsaw needs to be moved around. With these on, it is still rock solid.



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

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