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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Apr 2001
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    8,810

    Default

    Hi Russell

    You will wack yourself on your head when you discover how simple it is.

    There are always two nuts that tighten against one another - that is how they remain firmly in place and do not untighten. One is the guide and the other is the lock nut. Look for this. Loosen them (away from each other). Adjust one against the blade, back off a smidgeon, then bring the other nut in and tighten the two nuts together. Done.

    Ensure that everything is square before all is tightened. Use a square to do so.

    Regards from Perth

    Derek
    Visit www.inthewoodshop.com for tutorials on constructing handtools, handtool reviews, and my trials and tribulations with furniture builds.

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  3. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Thanks Derek
    Had done all of your suggestion. With that in mind I went and try again and I think I found the problem this time.
    There is a small bolt that holds the guide into the brass sleeve had come undone so that the guide was flopping around to much which let it hang at a angle.
    See pic of guide disassembled
    A drop of new grease and now looks right

    Thanks all
    Attached Images Attached Images
    vapourforge.com

  4. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    New Zealand
    Posts
    231

    Default

    Good to hear Russell, and thanks for the update.

    Gareth
    Annular Grooved Nails....Ribbed for the Woods Pleasure?

  5. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Here is a shot of one of my guides. Slightly different to the image of Russel's guide in that the brass bush is still within the housing. The screw fell out but the washer is still in the housing behind the brass bush. Felder tell me they have not seen this before and there is no fix other than to purchase a whole new guide and all the bits. Now, my question is: does the brass bush simply act as a sort of thrust bearing and if so, does the platten part really need to be screwed onto the brass bush (from behind) because the bush is still doing what it is supposed to do unlike in Russel's case where the bush itself had fallen out? Incidentally, I can't remove the brass bush and have been reluctant to try too hard in case I damage the contact surface. Seems to work OK as is.

    By the way, I like the new aluminium insert and the mitre fence. Not thinking of going into small-scale production are you?Guide.jpg

  6. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default

    Dovetail
    Was it the right hand one facing the BS ...thinking that the rotation is undoing the screw. I used loctite when putting mine back together.... How old it your BS? not warranty claim? I wonder how many out there have come undone and not been noticed? To answer your question is the screw needed... yes in my case as the platen as a shaft in the brass was a sloppy fit and the platen hung at a angle but with the screw pulling the platen into the brass for a snug left right fit and no drooping of the platen. I found my brass come out with a pair of multi grips and a unscrewing, twisting action...might have been luck....

    Re the insert and mitre fence. Thanks for your kind words. (from thread
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f27/mo...-n4400-175331/ post 8 onwards)
    If you are interested in them it would not be a problem as I have allready done the hard bit of getting the first one . The cnc mill will look after the next one. Give me a PM if you or anyone else is interested. I would be happy to knock out a few....
    vapourforge.com

  7. #21
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Toowoomba
    Posts
    127

    Default

    Thanks Russell,

    Actually, my platten/platen (I don't think this is the correct term, but we know what we're talking about!) is quite snug in the brass bush. So much so that I had to remove all my guides to identify the culprit. It was located at the bottom L position but I'm not sure it was located there when I first identified the problem perhaps 8 months ago. Thinking about it, I doubt Felder would have used a screw if it wasn't necessary so I'll get out the big grippers and see if I can remove the bush without causing major issues. The other way around this is to drill a screw-sized hole through the knurled end grip to access the back of the platten, but I think this may be overkill! Come to think of it perhaps that's how they should have been designed in the first place so that the platten could be removed from time to time in order to clean and provide adequate lubrication to the shaft.

    Regarding the insert and mitre fence, that's good news that the CNC mill is set up. I would be interested and would be happy for you to send me a PM with costings unless of course there are others interested as well.

    My BS is well out of warranty and I agree that there will be several out there that are loose but not yet identified. It wouldn't take much for the screw/washer to gum up and to unscrew with rotation of the platten in the right direction.

  8. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Diamond Creek, Vic
    Posts
    59

    Default

    Russel,

    I had a problem with one of my blade guides. It came right out of the bronze bushing. I just took it back to the dealer and they replaced it with a new one. If you are not happy with the guide just have it replaced under warranty. It should not be that sloppy.
    BF

  9. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Glenbrook NSW Australia
    Posts
    705

    Default


    Blackforester; It was quicker to fix then take it back


    Dovetail; I would knock up a miter fence for $75 if you are interested or anyone else. The slab of aluminum I would get would make 6 fences. So making 6 would be tidy number to make.

    R
    vapourforge.com

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