Thread: Operator error. How do I fix it?

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Mods, is it possible for the link to the Snodgrass video to be made a sticky, it is the single most important tutorial on the net especially when it comes to fixing drift problems.

That video is in the forums' 'Videos' section, under 'Instructional / Demonstrations'.

And I agree, I set my bandsaw up this way over a year ago and haven't had a single problem since.

Originally Posted by Hermit

That video is in the forums' 'Videos' section, under 'Instructional / Demonstrations'.

And I agree, I set my bandsaw up this way over a year ago and haven't had a single problem since.

Yes, I know that but I think it is such a useful tutorial a link should be stickied to this forum. The new BS users will not know to go the video section unless the link is there. I am continually surprised that those who have issues with WW problems don't use YouTube videos more as it is a great resource for information.

Originally Posted by Chris Parks

Yes, I know that but I think it is such a useful tutorial a link should be stickied to this forum. The new BS users will not know to go the video section unless the link is there. I am continually surprised that those who have issues with WW problems don't use YouTube videos more as it is a great resource for information.

I agree Chris. A sticky thread titled 'Bandsaw Clinic video', 'Cure all of your Bandsaw Drift Problems' or similar, with a link to the vid, would be much easier to find.

Thanks to all that are contributing to this thread.

This is my first purchase of a bandsaw, and it is a steep learning curve.

From the Snodgrass video, I have gleaned a lot. Not real keen on throwing the table around like does, because mine weighs a lot more. But I will probably get some help for that.

I have a question though about the gullet placement at the "crown".

The problem blade at the moment is 1", does it matter that the back of the blade may be unsupported by the wheel, or is the gullet placement more critical?

Stuart

Originally Posted by brizylad

The problem blade at the moment is 1", does it matter that the back of the blade may be unsupported by the wheel, or is the gullet placement more critical?
Stuart

That's a good question, Stuart. My blade is narrow, so the back doesn't overhang the wheel edge even when the bottom of the gullets are centred.

Thinking about it, though, with a 'crowned' wheel even when the blade is centred over the wheel, only the centre would be fully supported, so if it were me I'd (probably) try it and see, as long as it wasn't going to rub on anything. I'd give it a good few spins by hand before powering up, just to make sure.

* This may not be good advice, it's just what I'd possibly do. Others might know better.

Otherwise, all you can really do is to rotate the table to align the mitre slot with the cut direction.
If you rule a line up the centre of a short scrap with parallel sides, then freehand cut halfway along that line and, without moving the timber, turn off the saw, the angle that the scrap is on will indicate the error. (Hope that makes sense. It does to me. )