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19th May 2006, 12:31 PM #31Woodworker
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One more thing: If you had the money, I think it is quite easy to justify purchasing the N4400 over Taiwanese or Chinese counterparts. While the Hammer bandsaw is slightly smaller, the finish of the machine, and motor quality alone is worth the price. One of my simple tests for how the machine will work is to squat beside the saw and virtually hang off the saw table. The Hammer "sagged" MUCH less than any of the Carbatec models I examined at the timber show last weekend. Likewise, give the upper blade guide assembly a really good push for and aft (simulating the pressure it would receive in resawing). Again, the Hammer won hands down.
When it comes to the FB500, I think it is slightly harder to justify the price differential between it and the N4400. It probably comes down to personal philosophical views about tools (i.e. do I want something that will do the job; or do I want the very best I can afford...), and just how much it hurts to ekk out the extra money from the wife...
Regards, LuckyDuck
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19th May 2006 12:31 PM # ADSGoogle Adsense Advertisement
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19th May 2006, 04:15 PM #32
HI A192K, do you know of somebody in Brisbane selling these? What are they worth.
LuckyDuck, thanks for the comments again - apreciate it mate.
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19th May 2006, 08:07 PM #33
3 into 1
J &M Ruatner in Melbourne sell them - look up Holz Profi in the Yellow pages
try there as zen said,
cheers
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19th May 2006, 08:11 PM #34
3 into 1 converter
Australia
Phase Change Converters
12 Drovers Place
PAKENHAM VIC 3810
email australia@phasechanger.com
Sales Phone: 1300 137 510 or 03 5941 6111
Fax: 03 5941 5888
sorry read last one wrong
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19th May 2006, 09:06 PM #35
three phase power converter
You can also make your own...look up 'rotary phase converter' on Google. All you need is a beefy three phase motor from ebay, a box of capacitors and a willful DIY attitude. On the other hand, this may be illegal unless you are a licenced electricial, who knows?
The other option is a VFD, or variable frequency drive. If you go this route you can also get variable motor speed as a bonus. eBay often has one. These are three phase devices, but will all work with single phase input. You need to derate by around a third to allow for the losses when converting.
I think that Hans Rauter sold his converter business a while ago, but he's worth ringing to find out.
The Trading Post often has an ad. for these converters. The rotary ones all work the same way, so don't be too swayed by claims to the contrary.
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21st May 2006, 05:40 PM #36
Agazzani 600, Felder FB600 or Meber 600
After having read all the pros and cons of cheaper Asian bandsaws versus the European models, I have decided to go for either the Agazzani 600, Felder FB600 or Meber 600. All seem to be available in Australia and in the $4000 price bracket.
Would like to hear from readers which one they would choose if given the choice, and why.
Also would like to hear from present owners of these machines if they are happy with their choices.
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21st May 2006, 08:06 PM #37
Flying,
I own the Aga 600 and have had it for a few months now. I put in in my workshop to supplement a smaller Jet 14 ( I am a professional wooden boatbuilder). So far I reckon I have put a few thousand super through it and it is great. It cuts very straight and I reckon that the european blade guides support the blade better than the US ones ( personal opinion but I have both and prefer the euro). The guides are easily adjusted with no tools and blade changes are so quick and simple. I was going to spend quite a few hours setting this saw up but I thought I would try it first and I haven't touched it since.
It cuts beautifully thin veneers and eats big flitches up too.
Foot brake is excellent. Recently had to use it in anger resawing a large wet huon crook when the piece moved and the blade ( 1 1/2" stellite tipped) jammed. Stops very quickly.
Only things that are a bit different to other saws are;
1. the on off switch is a bit different to my other machines but easy to use ( it is a sequence of two switches, one to power the on off and another to actually get the blade spinning)
2. Table tilt is only 20 degrees. This could easily be modified by removing a guard under the table.
3. The blade is guarded extremely well with a small perspex window just in front of the upper guide assembly. Sometimes when the light is right, a reflection of a pencil line that you are following appears and you have to double check you are on the right line
4. No mitre slot in table but I don't really use one so it didn't bother me.
5. Fence is solid but could be improved slightly to be more user friendly
Where I was previously, we put in a new Leda 24" saw and it was like chalk and cheese to the aga.
My only complaint is dust extraction. It is good for a bandsaw ( 2 x 4" ports) but the cabinet needs a bit of sealing rubber to improve it.
If you need some close up pics let me know and I'll email you some.
Hope this helps
AD
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22nd May 2006, 12:02 AM #38
I have a Meber 600 that's about 15 years old and I think it a fine thing-getting it at auction for a good price was a sweetener for me too. I looked at Agazanni last year and was going to buy one before I found this Meber. In the group you are considering I think it might just boil down to price and your relationship with the dealer. All of these are high end saws with similar specs, all made in the same small section of the Po valley in Italy.
I like Felder equipment, and have one of their combination machines. I would have certainly been open to an FB series saw as well. Felder sells a rail kit that you can fit to their saw tables, allowing the coupling of any of their extension tables. I have this installed on my bandsaw, and can easily clip on a 1 meter extension in (for example) the outfeed path, allowing one man resawing of long boards without having to mess with roller stands.
The only other option that springs to mind is possibly finding an older cast iron machine and doing a bearing, guides and drive belt replacement. Some of those old saws are remarkably smooth and accurate machines.
Greg
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22nd May 2006, 08:28 PM #39
Many thanks bloggs & gregoryq for your replies. Bloggs, yes I would like to see those pictures, as I have never seen an Agazzani saw in the flesh before.
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23rd May 2006, 09:53 PM #40
Ok Flying,
here we go with the pics.
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23rd May 2006, 09:54 PM #41
and some more
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23rd May 2006, 09:55 PM #42
and finally
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23rd May 2006, 11:09 PM #43
HI bloggs, thanks for the photos. I can now compare this machine to the others.
I recently saw the N4400 , but it was a bit of dissapointment in terms of its table size and the distance between the front of the table and the blade. This is where you would rest the work piece as it is being fed into the saw, and in my opinion is too small. The table size is 22.5" x 16.5", and is great lengthwise as it runs right up to the throat, but just too small widthwise to give adequate support for infeed of long pieces.
The Jet 18" table in comparison is 19" x 19", and is better widthwise and allows for plenty of area for infeed, but does stop short of the throat a bit - easy to correct by inserting a piece of plywood or the like. I think the Hammer people have got it wrong by having a large table area to the left of the blade, and only a very small area in front. You would have to set up some sort of infeed table to be of any use. If only the length of the N4400 table was combined with the width of the Jet, I would have found my perfect machine.
Can anybody with a Hammer N4400 comment on their experiences with the table size?
Also have now seen the Meber 600, and thought it was a top machine - very heavy duty.
Luckyduck, if you read this, sounds like you went through a few months ago exactly what I am doing at the moment. How did you manage to get the Ron Mack guy down to $3900 for the SR600? (was this including GST?). He wants $4950 incl. GST for it now.
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23rd May 2006, 11:33 PM #44
Bloggs, why have you got that blue duct tape around the handle near the motor?
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24th May 2006, 07:31 AM #45
Flying,
The tape is around the table tilt lever opening. The top dust port is in the same internal compartment and I thought I could improve the suction by taping it off. I haven't yet fully sealed the cabinet so I can't comment on it yet. There was just a roll of tape sitting on the bandsaw table one morining so I thought I'd stick some on.
I took some measurements for you too.
height overall - 2130
Width overall - 1120
Depth overall - 780
Table size 590 deep x 810 wide
Table height from floor - 910
I have the saw sitting on two hardwood bearers 45 high but these measurements do not include those. Table height wise it is really good. I use roller stands ( easy to make heavy duty ones) as we are putting up to 6m+ stock through.
The specs for the saw only say up to 1 1/4" blade but the guys at for wood advised it will take an 1 1/2" blade which I use exclusively for resawing and it is no problem.
Any more queries give me a yell.
regard,
AD
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