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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Kimberley Western Australia
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    46

    Default Who owns a Hafco BP-355 Bandsaw

    Hi Everyone,

    Who owns a Hafco BP-355 bandsaw.
    What do you like about them and what could be improved.

    Looking for honest opinions.

    Regards
    Stephen

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  3. #2
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    489

    Default

    I bought one a couple of months ago. It seems to be well made, things went together well, it has enough power to cut the stuff I am working with at the moment (Paulownia and some pine), I made a sled to rip down some sections of something that came down in a storm, don't know what it was but it gave me some 150mm wide boards with nice grain. I think it is a good honest machine, seems to be good value for money. There are probably better machines on the market but they all seem to cost more than this machine and one needs to draw the line somewhere. I am happy. I put the thing on wheels so I can move it around because space is limited so you should also factor this into the price. You will also need help with assembly. I ended up rigging a winch from the roof of the garage so I could lift the main assembly onto the base once I had assembled said base. Fitting the tilting table was easy. The blade tracked well out of the box. Blade guides were a bit tight to adjust but came good with a little oil on the sliding bits. The manual was OK but as this wasn't my first bandsaw I only really needed it to work out how the base frame went together.
    As I said, I am happy. It cuts wood with ease. The blades are reasonable. Hafco keep spare parts for the machines they sell. Can't ask for much more these days.

  4. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    blue mountains
    Posts
    4,882

    Default

    Basically what Old Hilly said except I have had mine about 8 years. Does what I need and keeps doing it.
    Regards
    John

  5. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    I dont own a BP255 but I do own the BP360.

    My advice is to check the lower guides to make sure YOU can set them easily, particularly the thrust bearing, which on mine is a skimpy little half sized bearing race. The lower guides were also badly misaligned and rather flimsily attached, and the lower blade guard was attached back to front (so the blade could not be removed from the machine till I fixed it). It is so difficult to see what is happening with the thrust race that I remove the entire table to set it, when I track a new blade, then replace the table after all the guides are set, which of course means I have to re-align the table every time.

    On mine I sawed off part of the upper blade guard so I could actually see what was happening with the upper guides, in order to set them correctly. The upper guides also suffer from that poor quality undersized thrust race.

    Having said that the rest of the machine is a good solid machine that does what I need it to do.

    My purpose in mentioning the above is to suggest that it is a good idea to go thru the motions of blade replacement to work out if the maintenance aspect of the machine is satisfactory "for you". I also maintain 2x Laguna 14" saws, a Wadkin 18" and a Woodfast horizontal BS, so blade changes & maintenance are pretty frequent. My HAFCO is a real PITB from that point of view. I will probably buy or manufacture different guides for mine, because I quite like the machine otherwise

  6. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Kimberley Western Australia
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Thank you for your valuable information,

    Really appreciated.

    Regards
    Stephen

  7. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    While I think of it, the plastic throat plate is an abomination when trying to deal with thin pieces which are less than the width of the throat plate. It flexes and causes all sorts of vibration issues, which you really dont need during a thin strip rip. As soon as you can manufacture an aluminium throat plate, like on a Laguna.

    & this may be of interest BP355 guides upgrade?


    H&F BP355 vs BP360


  8. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
    Posts
    1

    Default

    I just bought the BP360 at the recent Hare & Forbes sale, after seeing their display at the Brisbane Wood Show. I was originally looking at getting the BP310 due to budget, but with the work I want to do, paid extra for the BP360. Already over budget I couldn't justify the BP355.

    My experience:

    I assembled it out of the box, tuned it as per the manual and tried ripping some hardwood timber using the fence. The saw lines were far from straight. So then I went to YouTube to look up tuning it properly and watched the following Alex Snodgrass video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

    I then went back to the unit, removed the table and re-tuned all the parts. After reattaching the table, I then ran some 100mm hardwood through it making wavy lines and it cut like a dream.

    My only negative is I attached a dust collector to it and there is still a LOT of sawdust around the blade and on the floor. Otherwise, for my first ever band saw, I'm happy with it.

    Matt

  9. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2018
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    1,166

    Default

    on dust collection, there are a few good posts on helping clean up that around here somewhere - but one of the big things I found with mine was the "Standard" port in the lower wheel well is blocked with a great baffle, meaning the air was being slowed enough for suspended dust to settle! Now this might be hard for you, on a brand new saw, but pretty much everyone will tell you if it has a baffle, cut the thing out.

  10. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    another Alex Snodgrass setup video ( a bit more recent ) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bxVyKsbuwZQ

    and how to align your band saw table (and fence ) to the blade to eliminate the perception of drift https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vNdrkmx6ehI This process is actually quite important when assembling out of the box. You want to eliminate drift in the initial setup because the blade will drift when the set on the teeth becomes damaged (which it will in time) & you want to know its actually the blade, not your setup. You will then need to replace the blade and track it and know the procedure to follow if you are still getting drift.

    It is also worthwhile learning how to sharpen blades https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GRFASuwGodE I re-sharpen all the 12mm, 9mm and 6mm 3 and 4 TPI blades on the saws I maintain, and the re-sharpened blades all cut quite noticeably better than new blades out of the box imo. If there are more than 4 TPI, my eyes are no longer good enough and its not worth the time or effort for me

  11. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2018
    Location
    Canberra
    Age
    67
    Posts
    162

    Default

    I thought I'd post a couple of pictures of the guides on the Hare & Forbes BP 360 so you could actually see them, as they are so well hidden behind the blade guard on the standard machine that you cant see what adjustments you are making. To this end I pulled off the upper guide assembly for inspection on the kitchen table.

    You should be able to see the horrible little thrust race buried deep inside the assembly, making it difficult if not impossible to see what the clearance is,or anything else for that matter. I'm glad I pulled it off because it turns out it is very very grindy & rough on mine, and will need to be replaced, so I am going to investigate some replacement guide assemblies at the same time
    Attached Images Attached Images

  12. #11
    Join Date
    Feb 2017
    Location
    Kimberley Western Australia
    Posts
    46

    Default

    Great Information!
    Cheers

  13. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    2

    Default BP355 query

    I've owned a BP-355 for 18 months. As others have stated, it is a good honest machine. The only real issue I have with is that I find guide adjustment with the roller guides to be very fiddly. I seem to have problems setting them to the accuracy needed - especially the lower ones as they can be difficult to access (especially if you have big hands...). The roller guides can also be a tad more difficult to set properly when using smaller blades ( e.g 1/8") Probably the only big improvement I would suggest is that after market ceramic guides would make a difference. They are available at the link below.

    (SpaceAge Ceramics | Band Saw Accessories, Thrust Bearings, Band Saw Guides, Band Saw Blade Guide).

    Other than that, it is a reliable, if reasonably lightweight, machine suitable for home use.
    Last edited by Grumpy98; 15th July 2019 at 01:16 PM. Reason: Further info

  14. #13
    Join Date
    Sep 2020
    Location
    scone
    Age
    45
    Posts
    25

    Default

    Just bought this machine. I have found that when adjusting the top blade support its not very good as it moves a fair bit and throws the guides out. Have to watch it and reset before tightening.


    I did want to know if anyone has had the problem with the fence front guide/lock being higher then the table. Especially the little screw that holds down the measurement adjuster. Thinking I will have to make up a metal shim for the rail to get clearance. About 1.5mm.... cheers

  15. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Bright
    Posts
    17

    Default Halfco 355

    Quote Originally Posted by Wanderanwills View Post
    Hi Everyone,

    Who owns a Hafco BP-355 bandsaw.
    What do you like about them and what could be improved.

    Looking for honest opinions.

    Regards
    Stephen
    The bandsaw is just ok but if you want refinement this isn’t the machine. I have had to replace the wheel adjustment with a stronger bolt and nut as this is the way the wheel is adjusted. It is noisey and there are enough sharp pieces of metal on corners etc to cut your self everytime you use it. Would not re buy one or reccommend.

  16. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Coffs Harbour
    Posts
    34

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by John Hart View Post
    I have had to replace the wheel adjustment with a stronger bolt and nut as this is the way the wheel is adjusted.
    Thinking of doing the same with my Toolmac. The tensioning bolt is just about stripped; I'll be looking for something high-tensile I think.
    Cheers.

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